P-pumped 24valve? - Page 2 - Competition Diesel.Com

GSM-01 · 04-19-2007, 12:29 PM

Haisley is selling a kit too but if I remember right both do not include pump and a few other little things. The wiring harness has been my main thing. I want something that is going to be seemless and form the general discuss I have heard around the place you have to get a 98 12v harness for it to work seemlessly.

jamesl · 04-19-2007, 12:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GSM-01

I want something that is going to be seemless and form the general discuss I have heard around the place you have to get a 98 12v harness for it to work seemlessly.

you lost me on this sentence??

*RascalMafia* · 04-19-2007, 01:04 PM

also, if another vp44 goes out on my 24v ill be doing a conversion...vp`s suck

Dazed&Confused · 04-19-2007, 01:06 PM

Can the stock 24V timing case be machined to accept the P-pump?

diesel junkie02 · 04-19-2007, 01:38 PM

does it have to be a 98 12valve harness? or will a 98 gas harness work?

*RascalMafia* · 04-19-2007, 02:35 PM

gotta be a 12 valve, and the haisley kit is the scheid kit. you get choice of line size if i remember...but still gotta have the pump and fab up a linkage

*Snedge* · 04-19-2007, 03:51 PM

Diesel junkie, I have no idea what you'll end up with for timing. I gather this will not be a daily driver? With the parts you have listed wanting to install my guess is you should start at around 14-16? You can go more, much much more, but don't try to pull a trailer or anything any distance. Just my opinion.

diesel junkie02 · 04-20-2007, 01:52 PM

ill be driving the truck to school and work. if i do pull a trailer it will be a light low-boy. im mainly goin for Dyno/Drag truck.

Randall12v · 04-20-2007, 02:02 PM

I just talked to a guy from texas who is actually selling his 2000 P-pumped truck on EBay, he didnt use the 98 ecm, just the 2000, his timing is set at
23*, not a bad truck, haisley and schied parts, take a look at it, dont have a link. but pretty straight truck.

he also said for better streetablity and towing you could use the rv275 injectors

*Snedge* · 04-20-2007, 02:54 PM

23 is not drive it to school and work timing.

Distributor · 04-22-2007, 07:32 PM

Guess I better go back mine off then its been over that for 3 yrs, And is driven every day to work.....

Jim Fulmer · 04-22-2007, 09:30 PM

23 is no big deal, just takes a little off the bottom! 30 is a flat pig for a daily driver and 20 seems to be the best overall.

Jim

GSM-01 · 04-24-2007, 12:28 AM

Wow, yea I couldn't even follow that lol. I think it was from the hangover but I can't remember.... What I meant to say was I have a 98.5 24 valve. Can the 98 12v underhood harness be used and work seemlessly with the under dash harness or does everything have to be replaced? What I have heard is that the harnesses are close and minimal splicing and cutting is required. I was just wondering if this is so cause I can get a 98 12v harness and then when I p-pump my 24v use the 12v harness with only minor modifications. Sorry about that jamesl.

gwhammy · 04-25-2007, 04:40 PM

I thought the main concern is the cam position sensor on the cover. If you don't put it back on will the computer think that the motor is not running and not make anything else work? That is the main holdback on my conversion right now. The vp cover can't be made to fit the p-pump, not enough meat.

GSM-01 · 04-26-2007, 12:11 AM

You have to have the sensor there. That's one of the splicing things that has to be done, or so I am told.

*massdiesel* · 04-26-2007, 06:33 AM

You have to have cam sensor for tach, charging and cruise control.

gwhammy · 04-28-2007, 08:59 AM

I talked to a gentleman that has done the conversion and they have a different way of putting the cam sensor on.
He takes the sensor ring off of the 24v gear and centers it and welds it to the front of the 12v gear. He then makes a steel spacer and welds it to the front cover, then works it down to the right thickness for clearance on the cam sensor.
You can still keep the top dead center pin and have the cam sensor where it is easily accessible.
They have several trucks running this way and have no problems with this setup.

Jim Fulmer · 04-28-2007, 10:16 AM

So how do you get rid of the Check Engine light that everyone talks about.

Jim

Hoss · 04-28-2007, 11:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jim Fulmer

So how do you get rid of the Check Engine light that everyone talks about.

Jim

Hey Jim!

I put tape over mine

RacinDuallie · 04-28-2007, 11:50 AM

just pull the gauge cluster out plug in the soldering iron and de-solder the pesky bulb outta there........

04-19-2007, 12:29 PM	#21
GSM-01 Name: GSM-01 Title: Can turn wrenches Status: Not Here Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: On a drilling rig somewhere in the country. Member`s Gallery Posts: 1,481	Haisley is selling a kit too but if I remember right both do not include pump and a few other little things. The wiring harness has been my main thing. I want something that is going to be seemless and form the general discuss I have heard around the place you have to get a 98 12v harness for it to work seemlessly. __________________ 2015 Ram 3500 SRW CCLB Laramie Limited

04-19-2007, 01:04 PM	#23
RascalMafia Name: RascalMafia Title: heyyyyyyy girrrrrrrl Status: Not Here Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Middle GA Member`s Gallery Posts: 5,514	also, if another vp44 goes out on my 24v ill be doing a conversion...vp`s suck __________________ '18 Chevy 2500 '14 Cruze Diesel '04 Lincoln Towncar '01 F350 7.3 / ZF6

04-19-2007, 01:06 PM	#24
Dazed&Confused Name: Dazed&Confused Title: Surfing my own world Status: Not Here Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Morning View Kentucky Member`s Gallery Posts: 2,533	Can the stock 24V timing case be machined to accept the P-pump? __________________ Big Andy 1983/93 Dodge short bed Cummins toy 2001 Excursion Fummins project. 2004 CTS-V

04-19-2007, 01:38 PM	#25
diesel junkie02 Name: diesel junkie02 Title: I NEED MORE COWBELL!! Status: Not Here Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: brenham, tx Member`s Gallery Posts: 134	does it have to be a 98 12valve harness? or will a 98 gas harness work? __________________ 02,dodge monster 2 vp 6 X.13 FBD injs .093 stainless lines(for sale) afe stage 2 cold air 3600 DD black stacks 150/150 FASS and draw straw 516/1148 "Speed is money, but knowledge is power"

04-19-2007, 02:35 PM	#26
RascalMafia Name: RascalMafia Title: heyyyyyyy girrrrrrrl Status: Not Here Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Middle GA Member`s Gallery Posts: 5,514	gotta be a 12 valve, and the haisley kit is the scheid kit. you get choice of line size if i remember...but still gotta have the pump and fab up a linkage __________________ '18 Chevy 2500 '14 Cruze Diesel '04 Lincoln Towncar '01 F350 7.3 / ZF6

04-19-2007, 03:51 PM	#27
Snedge Name: Snedge Title: Comp Diesel Sponsor Status: Not Here Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Western Pa. Member`s Gallery Posts: 18,859	Diesel junkie, I have no idea what you'll end up with for timing. I gather this will not be a daily driver? With the parts you have listed wanting to install my guess is you should start at around 14-16? You can go more, much much more, but don't try to pull a trailer or anything any distance. Just my opinion.

04-20-2007, 01:52 PM	#28
diesel junkie02 Name: diesel junkie02 Title: I NEED MORE COWBELL!! Status: Not Here Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: brenham, tx Member`s Gallery Posts: 134	ill be driving the truck to school and work. if i do pull a trailer it will be a light low-boy. im mainly goin for Dyno/Drag truck. __________________ 02,dodge monster 2 vp 6 X.13 FBD injs .093 stainless lines(for sale) afe stage 2 cold air 3600 DD black stacks 150/150 FASS and draw straw 516/1148 "Speed is money, but knowledge is power"

04-20-2007, 02:02 PM	#29
Randall12v Name: Randall12v Title: ... Status: Not Here Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Quad Cities, IL. Member`s Gallery Posts: 2,396	I just talked to a guy from texas who is actually selling his 2000 P-pumped truck on EBay, he didnt use the 98 ecm, just the 2000, his timing is set at 23*, not a bad truck, haisley and schied parts, take a look at it, dont have a link. but pretty straight truck. he also said for better streetablity and towing you could use the rv275 injectors __________________ '04.5 Chevy 2500, 4x4, RCLB, LLY '97 Dodge 3500 SRW, 4x4, 12v SOLD

04-20-2007, 02:54 PM	#30
Snedge Name: Snedge Title: Comp Diesel Sponsor Status: Not Here Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Western Pa. Member`s Gallery Posts: 18,859	23 is not drive it to school and work timing.

04-22-2007, 07:32 PM	#31
Distributor Name: Distributor Title: Diesel Doctor Status: Not Here Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: S.W. Pa Member`s Gallery Posts: 314	Guess I better go back mine off then its been over that for 3 yrs, And is driven every day to work..... __________________ One half of Smoke and Mirrors Detective Agency Inc. LLC.

04-22-2007, 09:30 PM	#32
Jim Fulmer Name: Jim Fulmer Title: Too Much Time Status: Not Here Join Date: May 2006 Location: Quanah Tx. Member`s Gallery Posts: 5,013	23 is no big deal, just takes a little off the bottom! 30 is a flat pig for a daily driver and 20 seems to be the best overall. Jim __________________ 01' 12V, S/B, Q/C, 4WD 98' 12V, S/B, Q/C, 2WD

04-24-2007, 12:28 AM	#33
GSM-01 Name: GSM-01 Title: Can turn wrenches Status: Not Here Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: On a drilling rig somewhere in the country. Member`s Gallery Posts: 1,481	Wow, yea I couldn't even follow that lol. I think it was from the hangover but I can't remember.... What I meant to say was I have a 98.5 24 valve. Can the 98 12v underhood harness be used and work seemlessly with the under dash harness or does everything have to be replaced? What I have heard is that the harnesses are close and minimal splicing and cutting is required. I was just wondering if this is so cause I can get a 98 12v harness and then when I p-pump my 24v use the 12v harness with only minor modifications. Sorry about that jamesl. __________________ 2015 Ram 3500 SRW CCLB Laramie Limited

04-25-2007, 04:40 PM	#34
gwhammy Name: gwhammy Title: Too Much Time Status: Not Here Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Missouri Member`s Gallery Posts: 2,201	I thought the main concern is the cam position sensor on the cover. If you don't put it back on will the computer think that the motor is not running and not make anything else work? That is the main holdback on my conversion right now. The vp cover can't be made to fit the p-pump, not enough meat. __________________ 95,twd,rc,sb,351-ht60 twins,160modded, 09 f350 12 valve,

04-26-2007, 12:11 AM	#35
GSM-01 Name: GSM-01 Title: Can turn wrenches Status: Not Here Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: On a drilling rig somewhere in the country. Member`s Gallery Posts: 1,481	You have to have the sensor there. That's one of the splicing things that has to be done, or so I am told. __________________ 2015 Ram 3500 SRW CCLB Laramie Limited

04-26-2007, 06:33 AM	#36
massdiesel Name: massdiesel Title: Comp Diesel Sponsor Status: Not Here Join Date: Apr 2006 Member`s Gallery Posts: 432	You have to have cam sensor for tach, charging and cruise control. __________________ Scott Hovey MassDiesel Performance www.Massdiesel.Com

04-28-2007, 08:59 AM	#37
gwhammy Name: gwhammy Title: Too Much Time Status: Not Here Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Missouri Member`s Gallery Posts: 2,201	I talked to a gentleman that has done the conversion and they have a different way of putting the cam sensor on. He takes the sensor ring off of the 24v gear and centers it and welds it to the front of the 12v gear. He then makes a steel spacer and welds it to the front cover, then works it down to the right thickness for clearance on the cam sensor. You can still keep the top dead center pin and have the cam sensor where it is easily accessible. They have several trucks running this way and have no problems with this setup. __________________ 95,twd,rc,sb,351-ht60 twins,160modded, 09 f350 12 valve,

04-28-2007, 10:16 AM	#38
Jim Fulmer Name: Jim Fulmer Title: Too Much Time Status: Not Here Join Date: May 2006 Location: Quanah Tx. Member`s Gallery Posts: 5,013	So how do you get rid of the Check Engine light that everyone talks about. Jim __________________ 01' 12V, S/B, Q/C, 4WD 98' 12V, S/B, Q/C, 2WD

04-28-2007, 11:50 AM	#40
RacinDuallie Name: RacinDuallie Title: Black Sheep Racing Status: Not Here Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Supporting Northeast Diesel Racing Member`s Gallery Posts: 17,369	just pull the gauge cluster out plug in the soldering iron and de-solder the pesky bulb outta there........ __________________