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Diesel Conversions Powerplant swaps, Repowers, etc.

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Old 03-28-2017, 08:13 AM   #1
csmitty

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12V to 3rd gen Hemi

Here's a little copy from the into thread and what the plans are.

Hi Guys, came here to research a 12V build for my 3rd gen. Its an 04 2500 QCSB with hemi and 545rfe. Currently it has 521k miles and is stock. It made it 227k before its first valve spring failure resulting in a dropped valve which imbedded itself in the piston. (i might still have a pic somewhere). The cylinder wall was miraculously untouched. However the Engine was swapped with a used (low mile) one which went 40k before another valve spring failure. This one sent the valve stem through the cylinder wall into the water jacket. This was dads truck at the time and I had an 06 2500 QCSB with a CR. So between the two engines we pieced together a working one with the original block, 1 piston from the 2nd engine (probably wasn't mic'd) and 1 head from original, and the other head from the 2nd since failure's were on opposite banks. Valve springs were new updated design from Mopar. Its been together ever since. No tranny work other than filters and fluids. He got a 2015 2500 6.7 in 14 and bought this 04 with 475k on it. Intentions all along was for a swap but its held together the last two years and with getting married and buying our home (and home projects) its been put off.

Now with 521k I found a good deal on a used 12valve and found a reman'd 47rh for a good deal. Will keep the 273D and do a ford mainshaft swap for a fixed rear flange.

Also working on replacing all the wear parts as its started some good popping and creaking recently. I did the spring wear pads and have bushings and shackles ready to go. The front axle needs pretty much everything.
 
Old 03-28-2017, 08:18 AM   #2
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Biggest question I had was the differences between the hemi and the cr. Mainly frame mounts and how custom it would need to get.

From what I can measure it seems that the 12V motor mounts will put the engine in the correct spot. I've seen some swaps that used a 1/4" plate to move the mounts back to where a storm block or CR block would be. However it seems those guys were using the CR motor mounts. From what I can tell at least looking at 3rd gen with 6.7 is that the frame mounts are in the same spots from Hemi to CR. So it looks like new mounts won't need to be fabricated.
 
Old 03-28-2017, 08:22 AM   #3
csmitty

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Currently where I'm at now is sourcing all the small parts. Radiator, fan shroud, fan, coolant/washer reservoirs, etc. I have a hydroboost setup with MC and the lines for that ready to go. Got the throttle cable and tv cable.

Also need to figure out the tach signal. Since its a hemi computer a cr ring won't work on the front. I was hoping the junk hemi block was still around and I could steal its ring but it got scrapped not to long ago.

I'm hoping to have as much as I can ready to go when the swapping happens to limit the amount of down time.
 
Old 03-28-2017, 08:30 AM   #4
csmitty

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The 47rh I got lucky on. Wasn't having much luck finding a core here, other than a V10 on CL w/o TC and 2wd for $200. Only other was on car-parts.com and was $950 but with T/C and 4wd. So by they time I converted the 2wd V10 I figured I might was well get the right one. As luck would have it though it looked really clean and appeared to be a recent reman unit, though from a large reman company.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Plan for the 47rh will be to do a billet converter, valve body, and some billet pieces. After that we'll just see how the reman holds up.
 
Old 03-28-2017, 08:43 AM   #5
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Bringing the 12V home. Supposedily it has 200kish miles. I did get to see it run however. It does appear to have a leak from the tappet cover though. Its a 94 Auto engine. So 160hp pump.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Current plans are to assess the health of it with a leakdown test and to borescope it. Check for the KDP and fix the oil leak. From there I'd like to pull the head and O-ring with studs just the future proof it and it be much easier not in the truck. Then do the typical easy mods since the trans will be getting most of the money at the moment. But fuel plate, 4k gsk and valve springs, bump timing and afc tune. I also have a he351 to go on and will open the wastegate and use a boost elbow.

Hopefully that should keep my happy for a while. The truck itself will primarily be a DD or split that between a 2nd vehicle. So 3-4 days a week. It will also be a tow vehicle and could go up to 14k lbs. But mostly in the 8k range.
 
Old 03-28-2017, 09:26 AM   #6
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Love me some 3rd Gen 12 valves

If you have questions I'm more than happy to answer, just shoot me a PM.
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Old 03-28-2017, 09:34 AM   #7
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Hey Noobies..Take a lesson from this guy on how to make your first few post!

Good Job Smitty
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Old 03-28-2017, 10:34 AM   #8
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Welcome C.

Here ya go. It's a 1500 but maybe it will help:

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Old 12-17-2018, 10:12 AM   #9
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3rd Gen Hemi 12v Swap Part 2

Continuation of this thread here since the thread was closed.

12V to 3rd gen Hemi - Competition Diesel.Com - Bringing The BEST Together

So Its been a year and half since any major progress has been done, life, kids, etc. But my hand was finally forced as the 545RFE had enough at 536k miles. Wouldn't go past 2nd, and that was in manual shift, if left in D it would try to go to 3rd but end up back in 1st. So regardless it was time for it all to come out as the engine also had a slight head gasket leak between 3 and 5.

Click the image to open in full size.

Had to put it in the bed for lack of room in the garage. Plan is to refurbish it and put in my Jeep TJ.
Click the image to open in full size.

So in that time I started really tearing down the 12V. Got the head sent off and cleaned up. At the time I was planning on running a 188 Hamilton came so I told them the valve depth numbers I was looking to stay at. The seats/valves probably could have been run as is but figured it wouldn't hurt to touch them up. They did that after taking a slight bit off the head as it wasn't to bad. Also machined the valve seal area to facilitate the newer top hat seals.

Click the image to open in full size.

When I was dealing with the bottom end and popped #1 out the bore looked good and so did the rod bearings so I just ordered up some std size mains and rods and new rings with the plan to just hone the bores even though they were probably usable and put it back together. I guess I should have done them all as I got to #5 and 6 a few days later I saw maybe some slight scoring, even though I can't feel it with a fingernail.

Click the image to open in full size.

Its at the shop now and they'll let me what they think, hoping just a polish will take care of it. The block is also there currently as well to get cleaned and honed. My piston protrusion was already getting close to Hamiltons specs for a cam .022" I think is what I was seeing. But I've decided to stick with the stock cam for now with the power level I'm planning on. 350-400hp. However I did decided to go for some Hamilton springs and ARP head studs.

Should have gotten the heavy parts to the shop when the truck worked
Click the image to open in full size.

When I took everything I part I kept them together as far as piston numbers. But I didn't label intake or exhaust tappet/pushrod since I was planning on new ones. Now I'm leanings towards keeping the stock ones for now. Any issue with mixing the intake and exhaust tappets? Obviously a 50/50 chance of getting them matched back up. Other option is to get some 24v tappets or Hamiltons in the event I go with a cam in the future, but I would think it'd be best to just do new tappets with a new cam, not relatively new tappets on a new cam since the lobe widths will be different.

Still just meddling into the integration with the truck but I need to get the Hemi tone ring on the front, Its smaller than the CR one so I guess I'll have to space it out some to be able to get the sensor close enough.

Click the image to open in full size.

For the trans I have a 47RH that seems to have been recently remaned. Plan is to do a revmax valve body so I guess I'll see how everything looks when I open it up. Then either a revmax or garmon single disk TQ given my expected power levels.

As for mating the NP273 to the 47RH I've read a bunch on how the Tcase input won't reach the output seal of the 47RH and most just seal the two mating surfaces together. So I measured the lengths on my parts and sure enough the nose of the TC in put (which isn't a sealing surface) would just barely touch the lip of the seal. Its about .25" from the nose of the TC input to the start of the sealing surface. Well I found one or two threads talking about seal extensions so that got me looking around and turns out its a common thing with the Jeep TJs when swapping to an auto (32RH) from a manual that the input of the TCase will be to short. So one company makes, or did, this extension.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

I cross referenced the output seal from a 47RH to a 32RH using timkens seal catalog and sure enough it was the same seal and spaces it out about .43" Which should be plenty. It was only about $33 and is mild steel. You could def. make your own with a lathe as its only two operations, but for the price and it comes with a seal installed its hard to beat. Hopefully that will help some other 47RH/RE guys out when swapping.

Last edited by csmitty; 12-17-2018 at 10:19 AM.
 
Old 12-17-2018, 11:39 AM   #10
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Looks like a good bit of progress has taken place. Looking forward to following along.

Did your stock 545RFE go 536k miles, or was there a rebuild in there somewhere?

And is your 3rd gen a 3/4 ton?
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Old 12-17-2018, 12:23 PM   #11
csmitty

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red Sleeper View Post
Looks like a good bit of progress has taken place. Looking forward to following along.

Did your stock 545RFE go 536k miles, or was there a rebuild in there somewhere?

And is your 3rd gen a 3/4 ton?
Yeap, original trans. No work done to it at all other than filters and not that frequent fluid changes. So i'm pretty impressed to say the least. Looking forward to breaking it down, i'm sure there has to be no clutch material left. Plan is to reuse it in the Jeep.

Sorry, yes its a 3/4 ton. Thought I had it in there.

Hopefully things will move along pretty quick. New job has me going 60 miles round Jeep. Not much fun with the 4cyl pushing that brick through the air at 70mph. Not to mention its got 195k on it. But those 2.5s and 4.0s will run forever so i'm not THAT worried about it.
 
Old 01-03-2019, 09:21 AM   #12
csmitty

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So I got the crank and block back from the machine shop before christmas. Just haven't had time to fool with it just yet. Need to get some new piston cooling nozzles first. But the crank turned out well with just a polish.

Click the image to open in full size.

Just a hone on the bores to compliment some fresh rings.

Click the image to open in full size.

Will double check bearing clearances then start tightening everything down.
They also hit it with some paint which was nice. But I was thinking about doing a beige. So maybe I'll just do the head in beige and two tone it.

Last edited by csmitty; 01-03-2019 at 09:22 AM.
 
Old 01-03-2019, 10:25 AM   #13
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If you would like for a moderator to merge this thread with the other one you started, holler at me. Lookin' good!
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Old 01-08-2019, 07:29 AM   #14
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If you would like for a moderator to merge this thread with the other one you started, holler at me. Lookin' good!
Thanks for the merge!
 
Old 03-05-2019, 09:39 AM   #15
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Small update. Been slow going filing the piston rings, or just not as enthusiastic about it. I did find that in my moving of parts around one of the bins broke and a piston got a nice dent in the edge. So was trying to find just an OEM piston but they're only available in a kit. So cheapest I found was $183, piston, rings, and wrist pin clips. Expensive oops.

Click the image to open in full size.

However I did manage to get the rest of the exhaust out and the tank dropped in order to swap fuel modules and do a draw straw.

Click the image to open in full size.

Also got the hydroboost on the firewall and connected to the pedal. I have an oem hydro boost to steering gear line which should work fine, but will see how the pump to hydro goes. I'm debating on ditching the vacuum pump and putting a zf PS pump in, so that would change hoses most likely.

Click the image to open in full size.
 
Old 06-03-2019, 02:56 PM   #16
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Been coming along slowly but I have the rotating assembly locked down and the front gear housing on. Need to drill and tap the cam for a retainer then slide it in.

Also got the fuel tank finished up. I basically just got the fuel tank from a diesel ram and then got new hoses and filler neck that are diesel specific. The tank vent to filler neck hose is NLA but I got one for a 8' bed and made it work. Not just have to route the 1/2 and 3/8 fuel lines along the frame.

Click the image to open in full size.
 
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