2002 Kenworth t800 rad

Jfaulkner I will give your favorite charity $100 if you drive a 12.7 with a factory tune and a 171702. You will hate life. I will make it $150 if it's a 10 speed.

$250 if it's a Columbia and you take a selfie.
 
Jfaulkner I will give your favorite charity $100 if you drive a 12.7 with a factory tune and a 171702. You will hate life. I will make it $150 if it's a 10 speed.

$250 if it's a Columbia and you take a selfie.


Oh I’ve driven a lot of them and they are all turds with factory files. Doesn’t take much to wake one up so why in the hell would you intentionally drive one stock. Most of them are in Columbia’s, did have a DDEC IV in a 379 the other day. I won’t own one, that piston design is dumb as hell.
 
It's the combo of smoke limiting with the 171702. A hot day uphill with a heavy load and you simply won't be able to shift because the turbo won't spool at all.
 
It's the combo of smoke limiting with the 171702. A hot day uphill with a heavy load and you simply won't be able to shift because the turbo won't spool at all.


And this is why you add fuel until it does. Like you can make a horse deal cards with enough voltage.
 
I flushed out the rad, it was uneven, but this didn't seem to help. If anything the problem is getting worse. Pulling gentle hills at 50%-70% power when its not even hot the coolant will shoot to 210f and the fan will come on and stay on. On longer grades it will keep going up unless I back out of it, with the fan on. I have to severely back out of it and the fully loaded company trucks start passing me. It will hit 210f and kick the fan on even with gentle acceleration on flat ground.

- Bottle test still negative
- 190f thermostats tested before being put in
- fan kicks on at 207f
- Rad is clean internally and externally, although theres a few bugs I need to wash out
- Water pump was changed again
- Temperature drop across the rad and up and down seems normal, temperature across the rad is fairly even, but always hotter near the upper rad hose.
- airflow isnt impeded, if anything its better than most factory since I built a shroud
- red coolant
- EGTs are fine

I have a buddy with a w900 detroit and my programming, he doesn't hit 200f at highway speed no matter how long the pull.

I'm going to pull off the muffler and have a look. It did sound hollow. I can't think of anything else.
 
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A few more issues fixed:

- Bad ground to cab was possibly causing electrolysis (0.35v between coolant and block)
- rad was starting to clog, so I flushed it again.
- #6 injector failed in spectacular fashion. I put the truck pulls to shame with so much smoke.
- First detroit reman injector failed, I put it in 6
- Second detroit reman injector failed, I put it in 5 and known good from 5 to 6

It seemed to run cooler after that, but then my headgasket blew. I'm annoyed. Yes the dumb VGT is off.
 
A few more issues fixed:

- Bad ground to cab was possibly causing electrolysis (0.35v between coolant and block)
- rad was starting to clog, so I flushed it again.
- #6 injector failed in spectacular fashion. I put the truck pulls to shame with so much smoke.
- First detroit reman injector failed, I put it in 6
- Second detroit reman injector failed, I put it in 5 and known good from 5 to 6

It seemed to run cooler after that, but then my headgasket blew. I'm annoyed. Yes the dumb VGT is off.


And people wonder why I tell them if your injectors are good, leave them the hell alone. It’s a crap shoot with replacements.

Could be worse, could have a new POS.
 
I'm annoyed beyond belief

"All liners are around 3 thou protrusion"

They're fucking 1 to 4.5 thou. I don't see them moving around that much. 1 and 6 are 4.4-5 the rest are 1-3. Gasket blew on the lowest liner obviously.

Keep in mind this inframe has maybe 200k on it. 250k tops.

I pull out 2-5 so the guy can recut the repair sleeves and put in shims and now it looks like I might be doing all of them. The bottom of 2 of the flanges have corrosion. Just enough in 2 spots that it's an issue. The outside of the counterbores just below the deck is corroded. The liners look fine other than the 2 flanges.

See what the guy says tomorrow. He has 30 years experience working on these blocks. If he says inframe, then we inframe.
 
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