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Sled Pulling From Street to Pro-Mod, get your Sled Pulling fix here! |
01-28-2011, 07:17 PM
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#21
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Name: LOGANSTANFORTH
Title: WORKIN' MAN'S DOLLAR
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Lakeland Florida, formerly from Greenfield Ohio
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96 4x4 2500 CUMMINS AUTOMATIC, 93 D350 CUMMINS AUTOMATIC, 90 D250 CUMMINS AUTOMATIC, 95 2WD F350 CUMMINS 5 SPEED
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01-29-2011, 12:55 AM
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#22
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Name: Kman9090
Title: Too Much Time
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Location: In Front of the Black Cloud in Missouri
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The shorter the better it hooks, but to short you can bend the frame.
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2008 Ford F-350 Tow Rig
1999 Fummin's 12v Puller
Gilmore Diesel Performance
Sponsored by D&B Performance and Fabrication
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01-29-2011, 02:50 AM
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#23
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Name: CGD
Title: Too Much Time
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Delavan, WI
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Posts: 627
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Ok so which is better for pulling, some say long, some say short, the majority of the trucks I see have long bars not short. What is the reasoning behind the long bars and trying to keep the bars close to the same angle as the drive shaft if you say the short ones hook better? I have helped build a set for a friends truck and I am wondering if the long bars were the right choice.
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01-29-2011, 07:58 AM
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#24
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Name: lnimmo77
Title: Search never works
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Location: New Castle, Pennsylvania
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CGD
Ok so which is better for pulling, some say long, some say short, the majority of the trucks I see have long bars not short. What is the reasoning behind the long bars and trying to keep the bars close to the same angle as the drive shaft if you say the short ones hook better? I have helped build a set for a friends truck and I am wondering if the long bars were the right choice.
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The guy above you just answered that.
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03 Ram 2500 775/1250
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Begle1
So I'd give you a point over Pocket here.
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01-29-2011, 09:37 AM
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#25
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Name: XLR8R
Title: Crew Chief
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Location: Pattonville, TX
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Traction bar length is just one part of chassis/suspension tuning... short bars have lots of anti-squat (obviously good for traction), while long bars have lots of weight transfer - good for traction-limited RWD at the strip or getting a bigger bite on the track early in the hook to build more wheel speed before the pan hits the ground.
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01-29-2011, 12:57 PM
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#26
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Name: CGD
Title: Too Much Time
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Location: Delavan, WI
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Thank you XLR8R that is the answer I was looking for I have never actually seen any one give the pros and cons of short v. long, but I'm pretty sure someone will tell me that it has been said on here before.
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01-29-2011, 10:13 PM
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#27
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Name: Kman9090
Title: Too Much Time
Status: Not Here
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Location: In Front of the Black Cloud in Missouri
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Posts: 4,445
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XLR8R
Traction bar length is just one part of chassis/suspension tuning... short bars have lots of anti-squat (obviously good for traction), while long bars have lots of weight transfer - good for traction-limited RWD at the strip or getting a bigger bite on the track early in the hook to build more wheel speed before the pan hits the ground.
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The short bars are gonna bite equally as well if not better so how exactly are you gonna build more wheel speed with long bars?
__________________
2008 Ford F-350 Tow Rig
1999 Fummin's 12v Puller
Gilmore Diesel Performance
Sponsored by D&B Performance and Fabrication
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01-29-2011, 10:39 PM
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#28
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Name: XLR8R
Title: Crew Chief
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Pattonville, TX
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Short bars won't transfer weight like long bars- they will only generate anti-squat based on the rear axle's weight component of traction.
When the hook starts the sled weight does not aid rear axle traction.
Long bars transfer weight from the front axle to the rear axle - more rear axle traction early in the hook helps build higher wheel speed before the pan hits.
If a truck doesn't make enough power to use the additional traction, then longer bars won't help.
__________________
3 Nails Garage
Sleeps a flock of Rams & a Goat
GUN-HAPPY Crew Chief
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01-29-2011, 11:36 PM
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#29
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Name: Kman9090
Title: Too Much Time
Status: Not Here
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Location: In Front of the Black Cloud in Missouri
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I seen your reasoning and it makes sense but most sleds when you hook to theres alot of weight on the back when you start. Also you usually want the traction on the front wheels thats why you hang weights. The shorter bars but that much more stress on the frame and get it to plant the front end down better thus the reason why you will bend the frame downward on the backend since it's trying to push the front end down. This is just my theory not trying to argue. But to short and something like this will happen.
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__________________
2008 Ford F-350 Tow Rig
1999 Fummin's 12v Puller
Gilmore Diesel Performance
Sponsored by D&B Performance and Fabrication
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01-30-2011, 12:00 AM
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#30
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Name: XLR8R
Title: Crew Chief
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Pattonville, TX
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Sure, weights on the front help counteract the leverage that the sled puts down on the lunette - and longer bars makes those weights more valuable early in the hook.
The faster you can increase the sled's momentum, the more inertia it has to keep it moving when the pan hits hard.
Shorties work fine - the 1st hook I had on our CR full-pulled with a 48" set of Street Sleeper-length traction bars (barely out of the frame's rear axle kickup)... but for most folks, if you're hooking in a money slot long bars are worth a little extra distance.
Classic photo!
Biggest problem there was the 2nd Gen channel frame with a fully welded offset bracket.
Neat to watch how higher HP trucks go a little brokeback during the tough part of the hook, before straightening back out - especially surprising to see the occasional hydroformed frame doing it.
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3 Nails Garage
Sleeps a flock of Rams & a Goat
GUN-HAPPY Crew Chief
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01-30-2011, 12:06 AM
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#31
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Name: danni's cummins
Title: rookie girl
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: pendleton, or
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Posts: 133
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Ok sence we is....
and XLR8R is on the line.
For a daily driver who want to avoid axle wrap if a girl/guy was to make a set that parallel the the drive shaft the DD ride would not be hindered?
Firgured I would try to get some in the know info
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2003 QCSB, 4x4, 62/71/14 over S472 1.10a/r, Turbo Socks from Levi, SBDD clutch, Flux 3's, Floor it Stage 3.5, Glacier Diesel Power Fuel Boss with hyperdrive pulley,GDP MK2 big line,Amsoil bypass w/EABP110 Smarty TNT/TST, Isspro EV2 Full Billet 48RE with PCS controller
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01-30-2011, 05:17 AM
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#32
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Name: Greasycreek
Title: HDtuner
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: GMcity
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Posts: 71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XLR8R
Short bars won't transfer weight like long bars- they will only generate anti-squat based on the rear axle's weight component of traction.
When the hook starts the sled weight does not aid rear axle traction.
Long bars transfer weight from the front axle to the rear axle - more rear axle traction early in the hook helps build higher wheel speed before the pan hits.
If a truck doesn't make enough power to use the additional traction, then longer bars won't help.
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That is odd cause on a real 4WD pulling truck the front does 75+% of the hook coming out of the hole
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01-30-2011, 09:18 AM
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#33
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Name: XLR8R
Title: Crew Chief
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Pattonville, TX
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Posts: 2,364
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danni's cummins
For a daily driver who want to avoid axle wrap if a girl/guy was to make a set that parallel the the drive shaft the DD ride would not be hindered?
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Correct, if the traction bars are designed properly.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Greasycreek
That is odd cause on a real 4WD pulling truck the front does 75+% of the hook coming out of the hole
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Exactly...
__________________
3 Nails Garage
Sleeps a flock of Rams & a Goat
GUN-HAPPY Crew Chief
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01-30-2011, 11:16 AM
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#34
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Name: Kman9090
Title: Too Much Time
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: In Front of the Black Cloud in Missouri
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Posts: 4,445
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danni's cummins
Ok sence we is....
and XLR8R is on the line.
For a daily driver who want to avoid axle wrap if a girl/guy was to make a set that parallel the the drive shaft the DD ride would not be hindered?
Firgured I would try to get some in the know info
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My traction Bars never hurt my DD at all and they weren't exactly parallel to the driveshaft.
__________________
2008 Ford F-350 Tow Rig
1999 Fummin's 12v Puller
Gilmore Diesel Performance
Sponsored by D&B Performance and Fabrication
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01-30-2011, 01:08 PM
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#35
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Name: justinwilliamsk
Title: Rookie
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Aug 2010
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Posts: 7
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was thinkin about building a set of trac bars and are just the top link from a tractor like used on the truck at the top of the page i was plannin on running strait up to the frame from the axle do you guys think this would put too much stress on the frame runing such a short bar they would only be installed at pulls not ran on the street and they rear suspension would be blocked solid oh and its going on a 03 gmc 25000hd
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01-30-2011, 01:12 PM
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#36
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Name: Kman9090
Title: Too Much Time
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: In Front of the Black Cloud in Missouri
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Posts: 4,445
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That might be to short, my
__________________
2008 Ford F-350 Tow Rig
1999 Fummin's 12v Puller
Gilmore Diesel Performance
Sponsored by D&B Performance and Fabrication
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01-30-2011, 01:35 PM
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#37
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Name: bubba2400
Title: Too Much Time
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Union Grove, WI
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Posts: 612
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Quote:
Originally Posted by justinwilliamsk
was thinkin about building a set of trac bars and are just the top link from a tractor like used on the truck at the top of the page i was plannin on running strait up to the frame from the axle do you guys think this would put too much stress on the frame runing such a short bar they would only be installed at pulls not ran on the street and they rear suspension would be blocked solid oh and its going on a 03 gmc 25000hd
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Run the bars up to where the cab and box meet. This should right around where the frame starts to angle down. This way it will let the frame bow without interfering with what it wants to do.
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James
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01-30-2011, 08:41 PM
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#38
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Name: Reaper
Title: Rookie
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Jan 2011
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Posts: 18
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A long bar will try to lift the truck even out of the hole this will hurt front traction. That is why a short bar helps plant the front and rear. The short bar doesn't put leverage on the front and take weight off the front and plants the rear harder for better traction.
If your bending the frame with short bars your frame just isn't strong enough make a brace
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