hydraulic clutch adjustment and saftey switch delete?

RedBowTies88

RedBowTies88

The 3rd slowski
so out 89 f-350 dump with a 460 had both clutch cylinders replaced about a year ago (truck only has 30k original mile son it)

well they did a terrible job adjusting it so im looking to do it myself. there's no interaction for half the distance to the floor with the pedal and if you come up literally a half inch from the floor its fully engaged. very annoying to drive.

also the after switch keeps the truck from starting here and there...can i delete it somehow? thanks.
 
The switch shoudl be against the firewall, the dodges have a plastic housing with a plug on it

it may be in a different spot on the ford, but it should be connected to the pedal linkage somehow
 
ok thanks, ill have to look a little harder soon as this rain clears


any word on adjusting the tension?
 
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don't know about the adjustment for sure. may just need to bleed them. I have never found a definite way to bleed them... I've heard just start pumping and ive also heard you can bleed them from the slave cylinder just dont know how. sorry i'm not much help. What i do know is the switches ive messed with are like a little saddle maybe two inches long the just clips around the shaft that goes from the actual clutch pedal into the master cylinder. It should be right against the firewall. there will be a plug into it with two wires. you should be able to just connect the two wires. From my experiences anyways
 
At least with our 97 F-350, the clutch master cylinder is to the right of the throttle pedal. There is a mess of linkages from the clutch pedal, above the throttle, and finally to the master. Once the bushings start to wear, the engagment/throw will be compromised. Your option is to replace the components that have worn out, or try to fiddle in a newer style clutch pedal and master which has fewer parts making up the linkage.

The clutch pedal sensor wiring is on the final shaft going through the firewall. I cut and spliced the wires together because the linkage is too worn to get enough travel of the switch.
 
I appreciate the help, but this is not a case of worn linkage parts. This truck has 21000 miles on it and it was perfect when it went in for the cylinder. Came back a week later and the Clutch barely disengauges with the pedal to the floor. Engaguement used to be about 4-5 inches from the top
 
Might be the throwout bearing not sliding smoothly on the shaft. Consider pulling the transmission to check the operation of everything. Sometime being idle makes moving parts not move.
 
throw out bearing, or the clutch fork pivot stud. That little piece has caused a huge headach for me recently in my puller. to tell you the truth it wouldn't hurt to probably take your tranny down and grease everything up really good. it's almost twenty two years old. a new throw out and some grease would be an easy fix and rather inexpensive plus some good maintenance it just takes some time to drop. if you only put a thousand miles on the truck a year that thing will be broke in sixty years from now... maybe
 
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