That is my recommendation. Bootheel processes a lot of tractors.
Wanted: JD 4430 complete front axle assy.
- Thread starter 4x4dually
- Start date
That is my recommendation. Bootheel processes a lot of tractors.
Signature600
THA MAN!
Bootheel, or Worthington, both good sources if you can get them to call your ass back. I swear parts yards hate selling parts, they never return my calls.
Cook's in Clinton MO are good people if they have something you need. We go to their sales when they have them, and they will call us when they get one of our brands in. Honest people there!
I can't believe you're still messing with that junk front end....
Chris
Cook's in Clinton MO are good people if they have something you need. We go to their sales when they have them, and they will call us when they get one of our brands in. Honest people there!
I can't believe you're still messing with that junk front end....
Chris
bmoeller
New member
There is a good tractor salvage yard in Iowa Falls, Ia.
IIRC, these guys have even heavier axle conversion parts you can install, that were OEM on other brands of tractors. T.H.E. Company - Tom Hassenfritz Equpiment
Valu-Bilt Running a reman Deere 404 engine from them. Been in that 4020 for almost 12yrs. Still going strong!
IIRC, these guys have even heavier axle conversion parts you can install, that were OEM on other brands of tractors. T.H.E. Company - Tom Hassenfritz Equpiment
Valu-Bilt Running a reman Deere 404 engine from them. Been in that 4020 for almost 12yrs. Still going strong!
4x4dually
Moderator
LOL You know it! I lost the bolts out of the steering arm in the bottom of a pond while cleaning it out. I managed to get two bolts in and limp it back to the house. I had to drop the front to get my tap up in there to clean the other two holes out. When I drop it....so did my jaw. I figured now is the best time to fix it.
I've called Bootheel, Worthington, Sturgeons, Cook, P&K, etc etc....cheapest price is $1500. Bootheel was the most pleasurable to talk to. Jarrod really took the time to help me and answer all my questions.
On another note...I was told a Case 970 front end will bolt right up, they are easier to find, and they are cheaper. The yard tractor at Beck's in Guthrie has the 970 conversion on a 4020. I'm going to go by and check it out. I'm also going by a machine shop at lunch to see what it will cost to bore and sleeve this frame. Anyone got a 970 layni' around?
No turnin' back now. LOL
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BRE
New member
Mind you these are some rough cut guys from what I know but... Around here, he is the go to man.
Signature600
THA MAN!
They're green....so lots of idiots out the begging to buy **** for too much money...
Chris
Chris
BRE
New member
You want me to go get it?
4x4dually
Moderator
That's why I'm looking at Case front ends. LOL
Are you high again? LOL NO! LOL
BRE
New member
I am not... You squeak when you walk huh?
dieselracer07
New member
Give this place a shout 229-859-2643
I can't recall the name of the place, but they have everything.
Sent from my paperweight.
I can't recall the name of the place, but they have everything.
Sent from my paperweight.
4x4dually
Moderator
I went to Guthrie tonight to Beck's. They had a fixed tread axle from a 4020 Wheatland I believe. I got it for $250. It has slight wear but is complete cast doing away with the weak knees. The spindles need to be shorted about 2.35 inches, the wheatland set closer to the ground and is slightly narrower. If I can find a piece of 2.75 OD Heavy Wall DOM with the .625 wall thickness...I'll just make spacers. I may have to have them turned. So I'll have $250 plus 6 bushings at $13 each plus what ever I have to do to get the spindles to fit. I might get the front hole bored and sleeved before a new bushing depending on the cost. So I think I can get it done for less than $500. It is solid cast and one heavy mofo. I lifted the old one out of the truck but had to get a buddy to get the other one. No way will this thing break! It is an AR27555...marked in the casting as R27950 which is no loger available....meaning I now have a "classic." :hehe:
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4x4dually
Moderator
4020 is back on its own feet again! :clap: The shop is now littered with spare parts and greasy tools.
The axle I found fits a 4230, 4000, and several 30 series and is noted as a "utility" axle, for whatever that means. The verticle shafts on the knuckle (I call it spindle) are two inches shorter than a standard 4020 spindle. I ground the welds and drilled the alignment pin and tried to press them at NAPA. 35 tons and heat...no bueno...it just laughed at us. So...I called in a favor at Ditch Witch. That big SOB press they have has to be 50 tons or more. It just said "I'm your daddy, no move!" LOL
As you can see, I just pressed the shafts down 2.45 inches which made it the correct length for two thrust washers at the bottom and a shin washer at the top like the book said instead of the fluster cluck of washers this tractor had on it from an apparent previous owner...not I! I heated the cast and hit it with 7018 Low Hydro rod and walla! Then I had to take 5 inches off the tie rods on each side. All new bushings, hubs cleaned and re-greased and bearings repacked. Set tire pressure and toe-in and she's ready to roll. It is 10 inches narrower than the way it was set before on the wide-adjustable, but I don't think there is anyway I can break this setup.
I swore I had a can of JD green paint....but it was gone. I settled for black on the welds.
Waaaaay stronger than a wide-adjustable axle.
I can't wait to go attack some cedar trees!
The axle I found fits a 4230, 4000, and several 30 series and is noted as a "utility" axle, for whatever that means. The verticle shafts on the knuckle (I call it spindle) are two inches shorter than a standard 4020 spindle. I ground the welds and drilled the alignment pin and tried to press them at NAPA. 35 tons and heat...no bueno...it just laughed at us. So...I called in a favor at Ditch Witch. That big SOB press they have has to be 50 tons or more. It just said "I'm your daddy, no move!" LOL
As you can see, I just pressed the shafts down 2.45 inches which made it the correct length for two thrust washers at the bottom and a shin washer at the top like the book said instead of the fluster cluck of washers this tractor had on it from an apparent previous owner...not I! I heated the cast and hit it with 7018 Low Hydro rod and walla! Then I had to take 5 inches off the tie rods on each side. All new bushings, hubs cleaned and re-greased and bearings repacked. Set tire pressure and toe-in and she's ready to roll. It is 10 inches narrower than the way it was set before on the wide-adjustable, but I don't think there is anyway I can break this setup.
I swore I had a can of JD green paint....but it was gone. I settled for black on the welds.
Waaaaay stronger than a wide-adjustable axle.
I can't wait to go attack some cedar trees!
4x4dually
Moderator
Quoting my own words for self-inspection......can I get some Spicy ketchup for this crow? Tastes like schidt.
http://www.worthingtonagparts.com/john-deere-spindle-splined-new-wn-ar55179
New spindle will be here Wed and probably a heavier compete front end will go on it later this summer.
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4x4dually
Moderator
I know, right? LOL I hate that freakin' "I know right" bullcrap.
So the bale was hood high, going down hill, 2nd gear slowly, and SNAP, expletive, expletive.....
I know there are two things you do when a tractor tries to roll over....1 wear your belt....2 don't jump. I had no belt on and I was standing on the right rear fender laying sideways on the seat trying to depress the clutch and find the loader lever that was right in front of me to let it down. I had to decide to jump or not really fast. I finally decided to jump and it went through my mind that as soon as you hit the ground...MOVE...so I don't get crushed. Then it stopped and slowly teetered back down. It was definitely an O-SCHIDT I'm gonna widow my wife and let my kids grow up without a daddy moment. Haven't been that scared in a while.