Truckers, lets see your rigs!

[BRE]

Originally Posted by ktllc15

I think we need to trade wagons! I don't have the ss one that's in my pic anymore. Needed a 53' for what I do so got a 53' sliding spread but it's white. I sure miss the stainless.

You don’t want this one lol

If I’ve been working mine harder and in high ambient temps, it’s get 180-190ish. I’ve never seen it go above 200 at all so I essentially don’t pay attention to it. I’ve got an air cooler underneath.


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[Rig Wrench]

Any mack gurus on here? Real mack, not the late model volvo chitbox

[jfaulkner]

Originally Posted by Rig Wrench

Any mack gurus on here? Real mack, not the late model volvo chitbox

Boy you don’t care who you let in your shop do you?

[Rig Wrench]

Originally Posted by jfaulkner

Boy you don’t care who you let in your shop do you?

Same guy has 2 paccars. Comes with the territory. Turned away a baby intertrashional today though. Had to draw the line

[SmokinCAT]

Originally Posted by allan5oh

Running in direct makes a huge difference. Too bad most drivers think 12th and 17th is direct.

Outside of your bubble there were transmissions made that 12th and 17th are direct, just not recently.

[allan5oh]

Originally Posted by SmokinCAT

Outside of your bubble there were transmissions made that 12th and 17th are direct, just not recently.

Oh I know. Used to be 13 speed directs too.

[Highwayman]

What speed is direct in your automatic?

[jfaulkner]

Originally Posted by Highwayman

What speed is direct in your automatic?

“D” is direct in an automatic, duh! “R” is for race.

[biggy238]

Race you to the dock.

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[jfaulkner]

Originally Posted by biggy238

Race you to the dock.

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Move the giant puffy microphone on your headset, I couldn’t hear you.

[Signature600]

Damn gliders...damn thing has an aluminum radiator in it, with no options for direct replacement.

So, now I have to try and figure out what PACCAR changed in 2012. 2012 and down I can buy other options, 2013 up is just an aluminum replacement. WTF.

Chris

[BRE]

Originally Posted by Signature600

Damn gliders...damn thing has an aluminum radiator in it, with no options for direct replacement.

So, now I have to try and figure out what PACCAR changed in 2012. 2012 and down I can buy other options, 2013 up is just an aluminum replacement. WTF.

Chris

What did I miss? Why is aluminum bad?


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[jfaulkner]

Originally Posted by Signature600

Damn gliders...damn thing has an aluminum radiator in it, with no options for direct replacement.

So, now I have to try and figure out what PACCAR changed in 2012. 2012 and down I can buy other options, 2013 up is just an aluminum replacement. WTF.

Chris

Were Here to Help You! - Radiator Supply House

Where I got my aluminum radiator.

The aluminum radiator will outlast the truck. Had a wrecked 389 here with 1.3mil miles and radiator looked perfect.

Why do you need a replacement?

[SmokinCAT]

Originally Posted by jfaulkner

Were Here to Help You! - Radiator Supply House

Where I got my aluminum radiator.

The aluminum radiator will outlast the truck. Had a wrecked 389 here with 1.3mil miles and radiator looked perfect.

Why do you need a replacement?

Didn’t you say they could build an aluminum to a higher level of cooling than a standard radiator?

[Signature600]

Originally Posted by BRE

What did I miss? Why is aluminum bad?


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Because I can't recore it.

Originally Posted by jfaulkner

Why do you need a replacement?

Truck gets hot, driver can't use any of your power you gave him. Need more radiator, or there is something messed up about how this thing is built. The old T800 never gets over 205* but this glider will get to 230+ if you don't start backing way out of it.

Originally Posted by SmokinCAT

Didn’t you say they could build an aluminum to a higher level of cooling than a standard radiator?

Could be, I don't think there's anything wrong with aluminum radiators other than you have to have special chit to work on them.

Chris

[ktllc15]

The tricks to turn the fan before you start pulling the grade!

[Signature600]

Originally Posted by ktllc15

The tricks to turn the fan before you start pulling the grade!

Thanks , that should solve everything.

Chris

[jfaulkner]

Originally Posted by Signature600

Because I can't recore it.







Truck gets hot, driver can't use any of your power you gave him. Need more radiator, or there is something messed up about how this thing is built. The old T800 never gets over 205* but this glider will get to 230+ if you don't start backing way out of it.







Could be, I don't think there's anything wrong with aluminum radiators other than you have to have special chit to work on them.



Chris

I’ve recored one radiator ever and swore I would never do it again. Was not worth the effort, was only cheaper if your time isn’t worth anything. I pulled the entire OEM cool pack out of my truck and replaced it with the best aluminum radiator RSH could make and got a Duralite CAC and I don’t have heat issues and my cool pack is the same as a 389.

I would rinse yours out and look at the gauge in the truck. It’s been my experience (especially with my uncle) that “hot” isn’t really hot. He went from one truck to another and the gauge is different. Just because the needle was farther to the right vs his old truck he thought it had an issue and drove around with his engine fan on all the time. Effectively pulling as much dirt in the radiator as he could.

Radiator supply house was the only place I found that didn’t just try and convince you to convert to the older copper fins that rotted away in a few years. But there are lots of trucks around here with more power than your running that have the same radiator you have with no issues. Someone didn’t put cold thermostats in that truck did they?

[Signature600]

Originally Posted by jfaulkner

I’ve recored one radiator ever and swore I would never do it again. Was not worth the effort, was only cheaper if your time isn’t worth anything. I pulled the entire OEM cool pack out of my truck and replaced it with the best aluminum radiator RSH could make and got a Duralite CAC and I don’t have heat issues and my cool pack is the same as a 389.

I would rinse yours out and look at the gauge in the truck. It’s been my experience (especially with my uncle) that “hot” isn’t really hot. He went from one truck to another and the gauge is different. Just because the needle was farther to the right vs his old truck he thought it had an issue and drove around with his engine fan on all the time. Effectively pulling as much dirt in the radiator as he could.

Radiator supply house was the only place I found that didn’t just try and convince you to convert to the older copper fins that rotted away in a few years. But there are lots of trucks around here with more power than your running that have the same radiator you have with no issues. Someone didn’t put cold thermostats in that truck did they?

Who the hell knows? Ohio CAT built the engine with Larson telling them we wanted 475...we never told them anything other that 550hp since we can never have enough. Who knows what we have....

Here's what I get told....Gauge goes to 230, lights, buzzers, and warnings go off and he has to get out of the fuel...Only happens pulling mountains. Used to pull same hills at 40-45mph, now he's at 30-35mph trying to keep it cool.


Finally got told transmission gets to 275* before the lights come on.

As far as recore on a radiator, we do a ton of them since I do them in house. You can't buy radiators for half our stuff, so we're used to that.

I reckon we'll have to tear the charge air off it and give everything a bath and see what we have after than. Blown everything out twice in the last week with air, not dirty with an air wand, but I know that's not as good as the power washer. I'll have to pull the thermostats and change them out too, along with adding a mechanical temp gauge.

Chris

[biggy238]

Originally Posted by Signature600

Thanks , that should solve everything.

Chris

Yeah, wtf were you thinking?

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