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Old 09-20-2017, 03:34 PM   #1
03five9

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03 cummins knock

Hi guys, 1st post. Done ALOT of reading about my issue and can't find the cause.

2003 auto afe blade runner gt turbo header and intake mbrp 5 inch exhaust and edge ez.

So I'm getting this knock at idle seems to be coming from bell housing. Pulled trans and nothing was cracked like I hoped to find. I ordered a bd flexplate since I'm here and will be doing rear main and cam seals.

Bought the truck 1k miles ago and its in immaculate condition original owner LOTS of receipts from dealer and service records. I did a 4hr mountain cruise off road but not beating her actually only in 4 wheel for 30 mins max just to be easier on her(I thought). Now it's knocking. I can really hear it at idle and it's spuratic and sometimes won't do it at all. I may hear a little chatter if I'm driving less than 5mph and let off the throttle.

Flexplate chatter? - YouTube

Flexplate noise - YouTube

Flexplate issue? - YouTube

Tc noise - YouTube


TIA, trans is in the garage waiting for bd plate
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Old 09-20-2017, 03:48 PM   #2
crpower
 
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Were the flexplate bolts loose?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Old 09-20-2017, 03:55 PM   #3
03five9

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FP to TC all tight, FP to crank unsure I took em off with an impact which I know I shouldn't have done. I was thinking MAYBE cause I do see where the rust ran off 3 of em.
 
Old 09-20-2017, 04:01 PM   #4
03five9

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Quote:
Originally Posted by crpower View Post
Were the flexplate bolts loose?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
^^ forgot to quote you in previous post lol
 
Old 09-20-2017, 04:12 PM   #5
Snedge
 
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I had a Suncoast torque converter that rattled really loud like that at idle. It worked great, just sounded like a double disk clutch rattling at idle.
 
Old 09-20-2017, 04:24 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by Snedge View Post
I had a Suncoast torque converter that rattled really loud like that at idle. It worked great, just sounded like a double disk clutch rattling at idle.
I was concerned about it being a cracked flexplate then flying apart and ruining the trans or sams thing if it's the TC. I have to take it to San Diego on the 5th so was really concerned. Plus it's the 1st vehicle I ever bought with debt so it's driving me nuts. Atleast I'm getting to know her tho lol.
 
Old 09-20-2017, 04:32 PM   #7
BluegrassDiesel
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Snedge View Post
I had a Suncoast torque converter that rattled really loud like that at idle. It worked great, just sounded like a double disk clutch rattling at idle.
Had a RevMax converter do the same thing in a Duramax. Probably wouldnt be a bad idea to get the converter checked out.
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Old 09-20-2017, 04:43 PM   #8
03five9

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Originally Posted by BluegrassDiesel View Post
Had a RevMax converter do the same thing in a Duramax. Probably wouldnt be a bad idea to get the converter checked out.
How's that? I've only spoke to one trans guy and they said they had to cut it open!
 
Old 09-20-2017, 04:50 PM   #9
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Can anyone explain to me why if I'm driving with ac on and put it in park it doesn't happen? As soon as I turn the ac off is when I get the noise! I let it idle for 10 mins with ac on and nothing, click it off and it's back again. Is it just the change in load?
 
Old 09-20-2017, 10:37 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 03five9 View Post
Is it just the change in load?


Seems to be the case. Activating the AC compressor adds load to the engine. With a load the slack is taken up in your transmission where the rattle is.

Does this rattle only occur in park and neutral?
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Old 09-21-2017, 07:32 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 03five9 View Post
How's that? I've only spoke to one trans guy and they said they had to cut it open!

When I called Suncoast about my noise they told me to send it back so they could "cut it apart and look, but it was probably nothing to worry about". I never sent it back and I stopped worrying after a while.
 
Old 09-21-2017, 08:17 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 03five9 View Post
How's that? I've only spoke to one trans guy and they said they had to cut it open!
That's how you service a TC. Cut it open, inspect, clean, replace bushings, slap it together, and weld it on a machine that keeps it balanced.

A lot of people on here like Diesel Performance Converters (Diesel Performance Converters | Best Diesel Torque Converters). Then Goerend is always a safe bet too (Goerend Transmission, Inc.).

I'd call and ask about turn around. You could toss a used stock 48re TC in for the road trip.

Make sure you red locktite the TC bolts, use new bolts, and torque everything.
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Old 09-21-2017, 10:45 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red Sleeper View Post
Seems to be the case. Activating the AC compressor adds load to the engine. With a load the slack is taken up in your transmission where the rattle is.

Does this rattle only occur in park and neutral?
Yes only in P&N
 
Old 09-21-2017, 11:12 AM   #14
03five9

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Quote:
Originally Posted by CorneliusRox View Post
That's how you service a TC. Cut it open, inspect, clean, replace bushings, slap it together, and weld it on a machine that keeps it balanced.

A lot of people on here like Diesel Performance Converters (Diesel Performance Converters | Best Diesel Torque Converters). Then Goerend is always a safe bet too (Goerend Transmission, Inc.).

I'd call and ask about turn around. You could toss a used stock 48re TC in for the road trip.

Make sure you red locktite the TC bolts, use new bolts, and torque everything.
Loctite to crank and TC? I think I'm going to slap it together with the new flexplate and If it still knocks I'll do the TC want to save up for full billit trans probably ATS or goerend
 
Old 09-21-2017, 11:25 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 03five9 View Post
Loctite to crank and TC? I think I'm going to slap it together with the new flexplate and If it still knocks I'll do the TC want to save up for full billit trans probably ATS or goerend

If there is nothing wrong with the flexplate....how does it have a chance to fix it by replacing the flexplate? It's a fairly simple mechanism.
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Old 09-21-2017, 11:47 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by YoungDiesel27 View Post
If there is nothing wrong with the flexplate....how does it have a chance to fix it by replacing the flexplate? It's a fairly simple mechanism.
Hoping the bolts at the crank were just loose. I don't think anything is wrong with the TC either. I went and played with a whole bunch and all make the same noise. I guess it's process of elimination I'm replacing the flexplate just because it's a weak link. I know TC is also but don't have a grand to dump in if I don't have too.
 
Old 09-21-2017, 01:47 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by YoungDiesel27 View Post
If there is nothing wrong with the flexplate....how does it have a chance to fix it by replacing the flexplate? It's a fairly simple mechanism.
If he's planning on going with a billet triple TC, and or more power in the future, it's not a bad idea to replace it anyways. Might as well.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 03five9 View Post
Loctite to crank and TC? I think I'm going to slap it together with the new flexplate and If it still knocks I'll do the TC want to save up for full billit trans probably ATS or goerend
I have never Loctite'd the crank bolts. I've never had them do anything they shouldn't either. The TC bolts though, there's many stories of guys having them back out, getting knocked around, and cracking castings. I've always used a thread locker for safety.

Also, I would highly recommend Goerend, Power Driven Diesel, FirePunk, Granby Truck Shop (Goerend shop), or RedLine Diesel before I'd go with ATS.
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Old 09-21-2017, 03:14 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CorneliusRox View Post
If he's planning on going with a billet triple TC, and or more power in the future, it's not a bad idea to replace it anyways. Might as well.



I have never Loctite'd the crank bolts. I've never had them do anything they shouldn't either. The TC bolts though, there's many stories of guys having them back out, getting knocked around, and cracking castings. I've always used a thread locker for safety.

Also, I would highly recommend Goerend, Power Driven Diesel, FirePunk, Granby Truck Shop (Goerend shop), or RedLine Diesel before I'd go with ATS.

Thanks a lot man. I was paying real close attention to the spacer/washer that goes between the flexplate and crank and I actually am pretty confident atleast 2 bolts were loose I couldn't get the bolt to line up with the shiny on the metal no matter what. Hopefully I actually found it. Will know Saturday if not tomorrow, I'll post a video when finished and keep everyone posted.

Thanks again,
Thoren.
 
Old 09-23-2017, 12:04 PM   #19
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I have had this same issue for several years, never taken it too seriously though. One part of the noise was a broken weld on a stiffened or laminated flex plate. Switched to a Billet and the noise was noticeably quieter.

Ive had several conversations with my trans builder about it, spent some time looking into it during other repairs, and basically chalked it up to a stator rattle. Mine is the same as yours, most noticeable in Park and Neutral. It hasn't affected the drivability of the truck, and I monitor my fluid level and condition and have never had any metal debris in the pan during services. Been going on 3 years now with it, will swap converters one day when I'm not lazy and feel like tearing the suspension apart to get the trans out.

Mine is a billet triple disk with a 15 blade left cut, low stall FWIW
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Old 09-23-2017, 10:20 PM   #20
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Well I got her back together and if it didn't fix the noise then it went away lol. I broke the oil pan gasket so I'm replacing that tomorrow. Got rear main done and cam seal, slapped her back together ran fine till it started dropping oil. I guess the RTV I used to ghetto rig the broken gasket didn't work. Anyways hoping tomorrow goes easy and I don't have to raise the motor, has anyone replaced the oil pan gasket without picking motor up?
 
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