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Old 01-13-2018, 08:04 AM   #15101
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OK truck tuning Gods...say I have a Kenworth T300 with a Paccar PX6 or PX8...can you tune/delete it?

Chris
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Old 01-13-2018, 08:49 AM   #15102
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Originally Posted by biggy238 View Post
Yesus, healer, spirit talker. Anything but a truck driver typically.

I left it be at disagreement and you keep taking stabs. Why?

I didn’t take a stab, it’s just almost every mechanic that went to school or especially a factory store parts changer like a Cat/Cummins “tech” are die hard Kool-Aid drinkers. The way they were told is the ONLY way it can be done. OEM is not always the best way, the aftermarket has proven that since the first car was invented. If everyone believed the crap they were told this site wouldn’t exist, no drag racing or sled pulling. The “maths” as you said would tell me I can’t uprate a 475 to 550 without a total driveline replacement. Want to guess how inaccurate that is or do you want to ask your teacher?

I get it, your in a shop that probably doesn’t allow you to think for yourself or try anything that isn’t within spec. But in my world spec is just a suggestion and the only way to know what works is to try it yourself. Sometimes it works and sometimes it costs you money. But I’ve found the best way to know for sure is to actually try it.

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Originally Posted by zfaylor View Post
I like hearing that kind of stuff honestly. People like Rick on here need to exist. That is trucking to me. Dad would spend his entire sunday polishing tanks and wheels. He could pay people to do it and it would have been wayyy easier but he enjoyed it. The second people like him are gone trucking will have been 100% commercialized/corporate to the point of no turning back IMO.
You don’t have to drive a show truck but it’s not that hard to keep things looking nice.

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Originally Posted by Signature600 View Post
OK truck tuning Gods...say I have a Kenworth T300 with a Paccar PX6 or PX8...can you tune/delete it?

Chris


Yes
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Flipping your mirrors up when you don't tow? That serves no purpose other than to let me know that you are a douche, from a distance.
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Old 01-13-2018, 09:31 AM   #15103
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Yes
I figured you'd tell me that....You were honestly going to be my first contact once we find the right truck.

Just wanted to make sure I could open it up to newer models and not just old ISC's

Thank you!
Chris
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Old 01-13-2018, 09:46 AM   #15104
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I didn’t take a stab, it’s just almost every mechanic that went to school or especially a factory store parts changer like a Cat/Cummins “tech” are die hard Kool-Aid drinkers. The way they were told is the ONLY way it can be done. OEM is not always the best way, the aftermarket has proven that since the first car was invented. If everyone believed the crap they were told this site wouldn’t exist, no drag racing or sled pulling. The “maths” as you said would tell me I can’t uprate a 475 to 550 without a total driveline replacement. Want to guess how inaccurate that is or do you want to ask your teacher?

I get it, your in a shop that probably doesn’t allow you to think for yourself or try anything that isn’t within spec. But in my world spec is just a suggestion and the only way to know what works is to try it yourself. Sometimes it works and sometimes it costs you money. But I’ve found the best way to know for sure is to actually try it.



You don’t have to drive a show truck but it’s not that hard to keep things looking nice.





Yes

You cannot run a c18 in a highway truck in North America. The factory never did it so it can't be done
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Old 01-13-2018, 09:48 AM   #15105
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First time it's been hooked to a trailer in 7 years. Now it needs a bath Click the image to open in full size.

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Love that truck. Lotsa potential there
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Old 01-13-2018, 09:48 AM   #15106
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Originally Posted by jfaulkner View Post
I didn’t take a stab, it’s just almost every mechanic that went to school or especially a factory store parts changer like a Cat/Cummins “tech” are die hard Kool-Aid drinkers. The way they were told is the ONLY way it can be done. OEM is not always the best way, the aftermarket has proven that since the first car was invented. If everyone believed the crap they were told this site wouldn’t exist, no drag racing or sled pulling. The “maths” as you said would tell me I can’t uprate a 475 to 550 without a total driveline replacement. Want to guess how inaccurate that is or do you want to ask your teacher?

I get it, your in a shop that probably doesn’t allow you to think for yourself or try anything that isn’t within spec. But in my world spec is just a suggestion and the only way to know what works is to try it yourself. Sometimes it works and sometimes it costs you money. But I’ve found the best way to know for sure is to actually try it.
That's because when customers take their equipment to a Dealer with certified techs, they expect the same factory developed repair procedure to be followed whether they're in San Diego or in Singapore. Cat Dealers are required to have training plans and are measured on completion rates, amongst many other things.
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Old 01-13-2018, 10:09 AM   #15107
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You cannot run a c18 in a highway truck in North America. The factory never did it so it can't be done
What kind òf nutjob would do such a thing
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Old 01-13-2018, 10:11 AM   #15108
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Has anyone played with borgs 100mm turbine?
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Old 01-13-2018, 11:11 AM   #15109
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That's because when customers take their equipment to a Dealer with certified techs, they expect the same factory developed repair procedure to be followed whether they're in San Diego or in Singapore. Cat Dealers are required to have training plans and are measured on completion rates, amongst many other things.
I guess making repairs with parts that will fail in the same exact way eventually is a good way to stay in the job.

Like replacing an ARD head on an SDP out of someone’s pocket knowing that it will break again and cost them money.

Must be a fine job to have if you don’t have a conscience.
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Old 01-13-2018, 11:36 AM   #15110
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For the record, I don’t drive a show truck. Lol

My truck is at best, a working truck.
Bunk has corrosion, paint peeling. Under the hood is not pretty, it has its problems etc.
It runs 2500-3500 miles a week with some mid 20’s kid acting like he knows what he’s doing.

I do what I do because I feel its the way it should be done. It makes me enjoy what’s left of the industry I’m in. Just like right now, i got in yesterday after 3500 miles... my truck is sitting down the street at my Dads gravel lot, covered in salt.

I get made fun of for the things I do, and then some people appreciate the way I do things. To each their own.


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There really is nothing better than OEM. That goes for anything from turbos to boobs.
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Old 01-13-2018, 11:52 AM   #15111
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Love that truck. Lotsa potential there
I think he needs a bigger trailer. Lol

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Originally Posted by RascalMafia View Post
That's because when customers take their equipment to a Dealer with certified techs, they expect the same factory developed repair procedure to be followed whether they're in San Diego or in Singapore. Cat Dealers are required to have training plans and are measured on completion rates, amongst many other things.
So if you build a bridge and it falls do you build it back the same way over and over? Not on my dime you won’t.

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For the record, I don’t drive a show truck. Lol

My truck is at best, a working truck.
Bunk has corrosion, paint peeling. Under the hood is not pretty, it has its problems etc.
It runs 2500-3500 miles a week with some mid 20’s kid acting like he knows what he’s doing.

I do what I do because I feel its the way it should be done. It makes me enjoy what’s left of the industry I’m in. Just like right now, i got in yesterday after 3500 miles... my truck is sitting down the street at my Dads gravel lot, covered in salt.

I get made fun of for the things I do, and then some people appreciate the way I do things. To each their own.


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Bravo! I see lots of older well taken care of trucks. They’re not show pony’s and nothing fancy but you can tell the guy takes care of it. We see lots of fleet trucks, some so clean that you could eat off the floor. Doesn’t matter that it’s a million mile Columbia worth $5000 or a $170,000 brand new W9. If you take care of it you’ve got my respect. Now running around Detroit I see tons of what we call “city rats”. They have more bungee cords holding their bumper on than a side kit has on the tarp. You can just tell no one gives a damn what it looks like.
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Flipping your mirrors up when you don't tow? That serves no purpose other than to let me know that you are a douche, from a distance.
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Old 01-13-2018, 11:57 AM   #15112
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I guess making repairs with parts that will fail in the same exact way eventually is a good way to stay in the job.



Like replacing an ARD head on an SDP out of someone’s pocket knowing that it will break again and cost them money.



Must be a fine job to have if you don’t have a conscience.


You remember when Don was having all the issues with his MXS and was apart 3 times and each time Cat would only cut the counterbore on one hole? Typical dealer crap, just patch it up until it’s out of warranty. Probably down a week each time because doing all 6 once would have been stupid.
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Flipping your mirrors up when you don't tow? That serves no purpose other than to let me know that you are a douche, from a distance.
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Old 01-13-2018, 12:02 PM   #15113
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Like replacing an ARD head on an SDP out of someone’s pocket knowing that it will break again and cost them money.
As opposed to what other method of repair?

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Old 01-13-2018, 12:08 PM   #15114
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So if you build a bridge and it falls do you build it back the same way over and over? Not on my dime you won’t.
There's always more than one way to skin a cat, and no one is obligated to use a Dealer if it's out of warranty. No different than taking a Chevy to a GM dealer or having a third party repair it.

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Old 01-13-2018, 12:40 PM   #15115
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Originally Posted by jfaulkner View Post
I didn’t take a stab, it’s just almost every mechanic that went to school or especially a factory store parts changer like a Cat/Cummins “tech” are die hard Kool-Aid drinkers. The way they were told is the ONLY way it can be done. OEM is not always the best way, the aftermarket has proven that since the first car was invented. If everyone believed the crap they were told this site wouldn’t exist, no drag racing or sled pulling. The “maths” as you said would tell me I can’t uprate a 475 to 550 without a total driveline replacement. Want to guess how inaccurate that is or do you want to ask your teacher?

I get it, your in a shop that probably doesn’t allow you to think for yourself or try anything that isn’t within spec. But in my world spec is just a suggestion and the only way to know what works is to try it yourself. Sometimes it works and sometimes it costs you money. But I’ve found the best way to know for sure is to actually try it.



You don’t have to drive a show truck but it’s not that hard to keep things looking nice.





Yes
You're on some kind of rant that doesn't have anything to do with me, if other than the fact that I said I would leave the cooler and re-plumb it.



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Old 01-13-2018, 12:43 PM   #15116
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You remember when Don was having all the issues with his MXS and was apart 3 times and each time Cat would only cut the counterbore on one hole? Typical dealer crap, just patch it up until it’s out of warranty. Probably down a week each time because doing all 6 once would have been stupid.
Our shop has never cut one hole on an engine that dropped a liner.

You're using extremes to make your point like a fanatic does in an argument.

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Old 01-13-2018, 12:45 PM   #15117
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*only* one hole.

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Old 01-13-2018, 02:27 PM   #15118
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This is why my “rant” applies to you.
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Why would you want to? You would be better served to give it it's own cooling circuit to make it more efficient.

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Sounds simple........

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.......I suppose we will just have to disagree on the usefulness of the precooler.

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I can prove the cooler is crap and you can disagree all you want, but if you can’t back up with facts why it is a huge benefit then it’s pointless. 125-135* air stock with 225*+ coolant temps vs 140-145* without and <200* coolant.

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Yep, all that sciences and mathfs... I start ignoring it asap

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Again wouldn’t want real world tests to get in the way of your text books

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While I'm curious how the outlet elbow works, I would still keep it and run its own heat exchanger and pump.

Is this the one you posted the charge air Temps from? The ~450° is consistent with what I was trained on. The liquid cooler dropped Temps to just above coolant temp from what I remember. Target manifold inlet temp is always 100 degrees for emissions engines. I don't know why that is the magic number.

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It’s the magic number that only you know about?

Cat turns the engine fan on at 150 and throws a high intake temp fault at 160/165 so maybe that’s closer to what they consider too hot?
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Flipping your mirrors up when you don't tow? That serves no purpose other than to let me know that you are a douche, from a distance.
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Old 01-13-2018, 02:36 PM   #15119
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Originally Posted by jfaulkner View Post
You remember when Don was having all the issues with his MXS and was apart 3 times and each time Cat would only cut the counterbore on one hole? Typical dealer crap, just patch it up until it’s out of warranty. Probably down a week each time because doing all 6 once would have been stupid.
Sure do, took a performance shop to finally get it right.
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Old 01-13-2018, 02:42 PM   #15120
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As opposed to what other method of repair?

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Not necessarily a different repair, but at least admit the part is **** and offer it at a discount rate since in all reality it should be a recalled part.

Then there is the delete option, but we know the semantics of that are so hush hush a dealer mechanic would never suggest that for fear of being dismissed.
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