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Sled Pulling From Street to Pro-Mod, get your Sled Pulling fix here!

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Old 06-25-2009, 09:41 AM   #241
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bighorny View Post
Top mount gets you excellent ground clearance, having them parrallel to the road means the geometry wont rotate the hub very much during travel and lastly top mount is fighting a pulling force not a pushing force, DOM doesnt stretch so there is absolutely no give. Bottom mount bars flex.

I made mine with .190 wall DOM, 3/4" thick Heims with 3/4" bolt hole.

Lot's of punishment and they are still kickin butt.
Interesting, wonder why all the suspension company's don't make them like this?
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Old 06-25-2009, 11:07 AM   #242
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bighorny View Post
Top mount gets you excellent ground clearance, having them parrallel to the road means the geometry wont rotate the hub very much during travel and lastly top mount is fighting a pulling force not a pushing force, DOM doesnt stretch so there is absolutely no give. Bottom mount bars flex.

I made mine with .190 wall DOM, 3/4" thick Heims with 3/4" bolt hole.

Lot's of punishment and they are still kickin butt.
Click the image to open in full size.

you are till pushing the bars BH.
and here is my reasoning for it.

the wrap pivot point is roughly the between the center of the spring pack and the mounting surface to the axle..

with yout setup and what looks like 4" blocks the traction bar eye is still below the rotation point. thus you are still compressing the traction bar..


not debating the ground clearance though that is a good idea.
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Old 06-25-2009, 12:16 PM   #243
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Here are a few pics of mine. They are set up like bighorny mentioned, but with a traction block system and backwards.... so i guess it's only similiar.

Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 07-02-2009, 09:23 PM   #244
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I bought a set of traction bars from a member on here a while ago. The heim joints on them look small compared to all the others ive seen. Heres a pic of them do you think there big enough for sled pulling? An also im pulling with them for the first time this saturday. I know you lengthen them but how much do you lengthen them?
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 07-02-2009, 09:30 PM   #245
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I have an odd ball setup on my truck. They seems be be working just fine!
 
Old 07-02-2009, 11:33 PM   #246
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Quote:
Originally Posted by malibu795 View Post
Click the image to open in full size.

you are till pushing the bars BH.
and here is my reasoning for it.

the wrap pivot point is roughly the between the center of the spring pack and the mounting surface to the axle..

with yout setup and what looks like 4" blocks the traction bar eye is still below the rotation point. thus you are still compressing the traction bar..


not debating the ground clearance though that is a good idea.

2 inch blocks, and the pivot point for the axle end of the t bar is 4 inch above and 3 inches forward of the axle. i dont think it is seeing any compression but hey.......
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Old 07-05-2009, 10:10 PM   #247
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Click the image to open in full size.Click the image to open in full size.Click the image to open in full size.Click the image to open in full size.Click the image to open in full size.
 
Old 07-05-2009, 11:11 PM   #248
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Here are mine traction block design with a radius bushing on the frame end, work in progress in the pics
have had them done a couple weeks work great
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 07-07-2009, 11:06 PM   #249
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dzchey21 View Post
Here are mine traction block design with a radius bushing on the frame end, work in progress in the pics
have had them done a couple weeks work great
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
i like the straps lol
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Old 07-08-2009, 01:11 PM   #250
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i like the straps lol
I knew someone was going to say something about them, i didnt have any safety chains or anything, and i didnt like the idea of a pogo stick on the high way so it was the best thing i could come up with at the time
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Old 07-22-2009, 05:40 PM   #251
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I made my own bars, 2x2x3/16 square tubing with the cat 1 3 point hitch bars for heim joints. 94" eye to eye.

View all my pics here-->

http://s286.photobucket.com/albums/l...view=slideshow
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Old 07-24-2009, 09:53 PM   #252
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Quote:
Originally Posted by silverram323 View Post
I made my own bars, 2x2x3/16 square tubing with the cat 1 3 point hitch bars for heim joints. 94" eye to eye.

View all my pics here-->

http://s286.photobucket.com/albums/l...view=slideshow
i like your frame brackets, they look just like mine. or vice versa.

Garrett
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Old 08-04-2009, 09:16 PM   #253
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heres mine

Here is a pic of mine, easy and simple!
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Old 08-08-2009, 12:45 AM   #254
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Here are some that I built
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Old 08-08-2009, 06:52 PM   #255
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^^^^is that psdtrav on powerstroke nations truck???
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Old 08-08-2009, 08:00 PM   #256
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dzchey21 View Post
^^^^is that psdtrav on powerstroke nations truck???
Yes it is.
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Old 08-18-2009, 04:03 PM   #257
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I built these myself. I was weldin them up at 4am in the morning and the wire kept stickin in the lead, so the welds are a little ugly, but I'm pretty happy with how they turned out (considering my fab skills).
Bars are 2 3/8 DOM...don't remember the thickness....but they're beefy.
Rear mounts are just angle iron with holes drilled for the proper "heim" spacing and bolted to the u-bolts.
Front mounts are 1/2 thick flat stock and are bolted to the frame with 2 half inch bolts each.
The ends are 2 tractor links that I bought at Rural King and cut in half. They have 3/4" "heims" on each end.

I had over $70 just in grade8 bolts to mount them up with.
The material was traded out for work at my best friends machine shop.
About $45 for the tractor links.
Not bad if I should say so myself.

Pulled with them 3 times now with no trouble. Gonna take them back off this winter and grind the welds down a little and reweld them so they look a little better.
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File Type: jpg truck stuff 006 (Large).jpg (58.1 KB, 47 views)
File Type: jpg truck stuff 008 (Large).jpg (32.3 KB, 46 views)
File Type: jpg truck 003 (Large).jpg (104.6 KB, 37 views)
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Work in progress....
 
Old 08-18-2009, 10:45 PM   #258
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Quote:
Originally Posted by malibu795 View Post
Click the image to open in full size.

you are till pushing the bars BH.
and here is my reasoning for it.

the wrap pivot point is roughly the between the center of the spring pack and the mounting surface to the axle..

with yout setup and what looks like 4" blocks the traction bar eye is still below the rotation point. thus you are still compressing the traction bar..


not debating the ground clearance though that is a good idea.

Ummm no...the center of the axle is the rotation point! If his bars are above center line of the axle, then they are being pulled on...
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Old 08-18-2009, 11:54 PM   #259
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Ummm no...the center of the axle is the rotation point! If his bars are above center line of the axle, then they are being pulled on...
i dont think so. the pivot point is the spring so when the axle twists it tries to move forward and still pushes the bar. though in his case, it has less effect then if the bar was below the axle.

Garrett
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Old 08-19-2009, 07:32 AM   #260
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The axle shafts are the axis of rotation.

Under acceleration, reaction torque places a tensile load on top-mounted bars... they can't be compressed unless the U-bolts allow the axle to slip forward on the leaf packs.

Without traction bars, the axle shafts are still the axis of housing rotation, but the leaf pack deflection which allows the tires to move closer to the fenderwell forms an additional swing arc, roughly centered at the lower surface of the main leaf, midway between the U-bolts (excepting assymetrical leaf pack configurations).
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