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Old 02-01-2011, 02:16 AM   #1
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Tappet removal question

I have searched this subject quite a bit. I have found some good write up's on cam and tappet removal and replacement. In everything I have read. I see the tappets pulled from the front of the block through the cam bore. Is this easier than pulling the tappet cover? With the tappet cover removed. Does this allow the tappets to be removed through the side of the block? My cylinder head is off right now. The engine is still in the truck. Im assuming I would have to pull the vp. That wouldnt be to tough considering its all apart anyway. Whats my best bet here?
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13.16 @ 104mph 1/4 mile

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Old 02-01-2011, 02:59 AM   #2
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Can't pull them through the side. The bottom is a much larger diameter than the body, so you can't pull them up through the block like a typical gas engine. Out the bottom is the only way.
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Old 02-01-2011, 03:07 AM   #3
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The tappets will not come out from the tappet cover. You can only see teh top of the tappets above the tappet bores. The 2 main ways of changing them is with the windowed pipe, baling wire, and a small magnet to fit into the tappets. Although this method can be very frustrating at times, and if you drop one inside the engine, the oil pan will have to come off to retreive it. Although if you are by yourself, this will probably be the easiest method.

Another way would be to raise the engine from its motor mounts and remove the oil pan. To do this with the block adapter in place, the pan will drop down just low enough to clear the block adapter once you have the engine raised out of its motor mounts. In some cases though you will have to remove the oil pump pick up tube in order to pull the pan completely out. Once the pan is removed you can drop the engine back down into its motor mounts for saftey reasons (thats just me though because of bad luck with heavy things falling). This will allow you to directly place the tappets into the engine yourself from underneith the truck, but you will need someone up top to place the wood dowl pins, hose clamps, zip ties, or what ever method you use to hold the tappets in place.
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Old 02-01-2011, 07:31 AM   #4
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Ok, Thanks guys. I wasnt sure exactly what was behind the tappet cover.
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13.16 @ 104mph 1/4 mile

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Old 02-01-2011, 09:38 AM   #5
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I would just pull the motor and flip it over. But that's just me.
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Old 02-01-2011, 09:47 AM   #6
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The tappet cover on a B-series Cummins is only good for one thing, leaking oil.
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Old 02-01-2011, 10:05 AM   #7
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The tappet cover on a B-series Cummins is only good for one thing, leaking oil.
Thats a good reason for me not to even touch it then. I have bad luck with seals.

I would love to pull the engine. If I do that though I will end up doing a full on cummins build. I know me too well. It will be a year before it runs again then.
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13.16 @ 104mph 1/4 mile

Aaron
 
Old 02-01-2011, 10:28 AM   #8
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I dropped a tappet and said screw it, and i pulled the motor. Turned out I had other issues with rod bearings and oil squirters so if your that far might as well pull it and put it on an engine stand upside down.
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Old 02-01-2011, 10:52 AM   #9
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The last time I replaced a cam/tappets I simply slid the tappet down the pipe with a long magnet and then grabbed the tappet with the wooden dowel. None of ball/magnet and string nonsense like you see in some write ups.
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Old 02-01-2011, 02:06 PM   #10
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The last time I replaced a cam/tappets I simply slid the tappet down the pipe with a long magnet and then grabbed the tappet with the wooden dowel. None of ball/magnet and string nonsense like you see in some write ups.
You did this on cylinder #6 with the engine installed in a '94+ dodge ram?
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Old 02-01-2011, 02:10 PM   #11
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Is this easier to do with the head off? Or is it a pain either way?
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02 Dodge QC/SB 4x4, Drag Comp,BD RAD, ARP studs, DDP HRVP44, HTT 62/71/14,SDX 200's,Killer B, Goerend trans,Billet input shaft, Billet Flexplate, AirdogII 200gph pump, Hellman sump
13.16 @ 104mph 1/4 mile

Aaron
 
Old 02-01-2011, 02:55 PM   #12
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Quote:
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Is this easier to do with the head off? Or is it a pain either way?
The head really makes no difference. The hard part for me (and my friend that was giving me a hand) was getting the tappets stood up in the tray so I could stab it with the dowel straight enough to pull it through the tappet bore. Of course, we started on #6 cylinder, so our learning curve as a bit long. By the end we had it down to about 2 minutes a tappet from lubing it up, to having it secured on the end of the dowel in the bore. Long narrow magnets and the pump/tappet cover off made a big difference.
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My p-pump conversion pics
 
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