Can it hold 600-650hp?

C

cummins.97

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I'm planning on building a fun DD. I want 600-650hp nothing less then 600hp. My question is can the stock LB7 bottom end hold togeather for that? I just don't want to build a fully built engine yet.
 
650 is on the verge of what a stock bottom end can handle. Tuning will play a major role in making it live without windowing a block.
 
phale said:
650 is on the verge of what a stock bottom end can handle. Tuning will play a major role in making it live without windowing a block.
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Also your right foot!:ft:
 
Well I'm almost 20 years old and everyone calls me grandpaw for driving so slow. :hehe: So my right foot wont be a problem plus it'd be on economy tune more then anything I just want to make people cry from stop light to stop light every now and then :lolly:
Does anyone know a place I can go to and get the tunes I want and still get my 600hp goal that will hold up with the stock bottom end? I want to put it on a dyno and tune it correctly.
 
It will take ALOT more than just a tune to get there, and anything more than 500HP is on borrowed time for the stock rods. A good turbo goes a long ways though in making HP efficiently and allowing the bottem end to live.
 
I was thinking about a GT4294R and maybe a modified CP3 to reach my goal but I'm open to sujestions. I still want a completely stock bottom end to hold my 600hp goal.
 
I've been doing it for years, but you need all the pieces to the puzzle. Guys say it can be done, but have never done it for any length of time. Nothing guaranted at that level, but has a good chance.
 
IdahoRob said:
I've been doing it for years, but you need all the pieces to the puzzle. Guys say it can be done, but have never done it for any length of time. Nothing guaranted at that level, but has a good chance.
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Like you, I am one of the guys that has been successful at it :D 3 years over 600hp the last year at 670+. Torque bends rods, a big turbo(2.8+) will help keep down on that number, I dynoed 670hp/914ft lbs my truck has just about no power under 2600rpm but i have found the combo that works for me.
 
Exact words from fleece to me at 600 your bending does slowly so I'm keeping mine on small tunes until spring time when I can start building it.
 
If you're anywhere close to the midwest call Mark @ Danville Performance. I know of pullers that are well past 600 on stock bottom ends. I would venture to say THEY are on the verge of bending/breaking stock stuff, but they've pulled all year and no problems so far. Just my $.02.
 
since you drive like a grandpa, why not just make 450hp and call it 600hp like every other 20yr old dmax owner? :confused:
 
Headstuds, a mild injector, a good turbo and your in. Your rods will start getting short, but how often will you actually literally be putting 600RWHP+ to the ground? Personally Ive got nearly 100,000 miles on my truck over 500RWHP and three years ago guys said it was going to bend rods...

Tuning plays a part but common sense goes a long way... My DD tune, same tune I tow with is at least 450RWHP, but the beauty of a bigger charger is that you can just let it and the tranny do the work, and you just dont have to lean on it real hard to get things moving when your laying down nearly 1000Ft/lbs or torque.

As far as melting pistons... Tuning melts pistons, Piss poor tuning... The LB7/LLY piston is the strongest known (stocker) out of the 4 generations. Performance cut and coated pistons are just delipped LB7's most guys here know that, you should not have to worry about pistons if you use a good tuner.

A good read: (But Im Kinda Biased)
2003 GMC Sierra 2500HD: 600hp Work Truck - Diesel Power Magazine


Caleb
 
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cummins.97 said:
plus it'd be on economy tune more then anything I just want to make people cry from stop light to stop light every now and then :lolly:
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you make no sense


cummins.97 said:
Does anyone know a place I can go to and get the tunes I want and still get my 600hp goal that will hold up with the stock bottom end? I want to put it on a dyno and tune it correctly.
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when you load the tune, make sure you use some unicorn piss in your fuel tank, that should get you your 600, might want to sprinkle a little on the tranny as well
 
SPEAKSUP said:
Exact words from fleece to me at 600 your bending does slowly so I'm keeping mine on small tunes until spring time when I can start building it.
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That couldn't be farther from the truth... Tuning, tuning, tuning. BTW I have always DD my race tune, why run a "tow tune"
 
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paint94979 said:
That couldn't be farther from the truth... Tuning, tuning, tuning. BTW I have always DD my race tune, why run a "tow tune"
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I'm not saying it can't be done we all have but on lb7 seen lbzs mostly heard those rods are stronger I'm new to it and I like bottom end reason I love diesels torque why do you want take it out of the truck. Where the fun is.
 
SPEAKSUP said:
I'm not saying it can't be done we all have but on lb7 seen lbzs mostly heard those rods are stronger I'm new to it and I like bottom end reason I love diesels torque why do you want take it out of the truck. Where the fun is.
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No fun? My truck as it sits will run 11's any day of the week. I'm giving the recipe for success. BTW Torque breaks parts. Fact
 
paint94979 said:
No fun? My truck as it sits will run 11's any day of the week. I'm giving the recipe for success. BTW Torque breaks parts. Fact
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How often are you running elevens in the street or even have a stretch good enough to lay into it. Torque might break parts but sure is hell a lot more fun. If GM would have done something right like cummins none of us would be in this spot.
 
Like many here have said it is at what rpm that you make 600 horse that will determine how long it lives. Don't expect it to make 600hp and 1750 tq at 1800 rpm and it live. Now move the power up to 3000-3200 and it takes around 950 tq to make 600 hp, which puts much less stress on the motor. Torque is your enemy when trying to make a truck live at that level.
 
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