Tow pig build checklist.

M

me2

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Dec 7, 2011
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I'm (finally) starting to build my tow pig engine. I'm looking for as much safe, efficient, cool, smokeless power I can get from a Cummins 6.7 with a basically stock fuel system for towing large trailers in the mountains. If I had 400 RWHP all day long, I'd be pretty happy. More would be a bonus.

My engine will run 1650 RPM in OD and a bit more than 2000 RPM in the next gear down. I'll be towing 15K in mountainous terrain. I have no interest in racing.

Starting from a stock 6.7, my present mod list is

- full deletes
- EFI Live tuning
- S475 over HE351VE turbo setup
- dual remote fuel filters
- gauge package including 2 boost gauges and drive pressure
- H11 headstuds
- BHAF or something similar

Am I missing anything ?

Is it necessary to tap and plug the coolant plugs in the head on a towing engine ?

The engine is not installed right now. Does anyone think I need 12V rods ?

FWIW, the 64mm HE451 I have is staying on the shelf because I don't think it delivers enough low and mid range boost. Its only an 80 pound/min turbo. The S475 twin setup is 100+lbs per minute and should have really good low end and mid boost.
 
I think your good power wise but every time i here towing in the mountains i think stoping power. Have you thought about an exhaust break (not shore if can be done with twins)? Also good brakes and rotors.
 
2000_fummins said:
I think your good power wise but every time i here towing in the mountains i think stoping power. Have you thought about an exhaust break (not shore if can be done with twins)? Also good brakes and rotors.
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Good point.

The HE351VE has a built in exhaust brake. I'll continue to use it in the twins setup.

I have a stand alone exhaust brake sitting here if I need more engine braking.

My trailer has hydraulic disk brakes. My truck stops better with the trailer on than it does empty. I kid you not.
 
maybe;
aftermarket intercooler
electric fans
deep trans pan with cooler
larger diff covers

etc. etc.
 
The truck has an aluminum diff cover.

I might put an extra transmission cooler on it. Still debating that.

Not sure about the deep pan. Nice to have, but expensive ?
 
Would you buy a set of used 12V rods and re bearing them ? Or is that dangerous ?

Is there a difference between USA and Mexico rods ?

Could I change the rods from the bottom of the engine, ie pull the pan and the crank and leave the head alone ?

Could I reuse my 6.7 crank bearings ? Seems very dangerous, but I thought I'd ask.

I just don't want to be making 1100 ftlbs at 1600 RPM up some big pass with the twins doing their thing and break a rod. That would ruin my day.
 
In your OP you stated that you're not interested in racing, it's just going to be towing. I understand your concern about bending a rod but basing your build off other trucks I have read about, I would think your stock rods will do just fine. If memory serves Aaron Nick had stock bottom end and ~800hp? (don't quote me on that)

With smart driving I think you're in the safe with using stock rods. Maybe take that money and use it towards something else like water meth. $.02
 
Something to keep in mind. When a powdered metal rod reaches its failure point, it breaks. When a forge rod reaches its failure point, it bends. Which one will do more damage?
 
With smart driving I think you're in the safe with using stock rods.
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Its a tow pig. Its going to get lugged and abused.

My 6.7 is getting twins and I intend to turn up the boost and the fuel down low for torque. I've read that is the worst thing you can do on a 6.7 with stock rods.

I'm pretty much committed to replacing them.
 
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