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Old 08-14-2007, 04:46 PM   #1
Eastern Diesel
 
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Need help getting my 12valve tuned

I had my truck at the dyno and it only made 352 at the wheels the dyno isnt setup to read tq. but I was very disapointed with only 352hp. I was expecting at least 500hp.
Heres my mods:

HTT PRO street 66/13 stainless
Oring studded head ported bowls with 60# springs
215 pump, laser cuts, 4k springs, o plate,
rack plug, gutted afc, set at 500cc(can go up to 650cc if I slide plate)
.093 Injection lines, 370s
snow water injection (spraying just water)
Timing set at 18.5*

Am i doing something wrong when I dyno? I ran it up to 55, locked the converter, then punched it out to 120.
 
Old 08-14-2007, 04:51 PM   #2
Eastern Diesel
 
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Since I was on the dyno Ive put the afc together and did the rack travel mod to it, and put the stock lines back on. This helped some but I dont think it runs like it should.
 
Old 08-14-2007, 04:52 PM   #3
BluegrassDiesel
 
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Have u checked the fuel pressure?? Also i dont think the rack travel mod benefits the 215 pumps at all, infact it might actual hurt the performance.
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Last edited by BluegrassDiesel; 08-14-2007 at 04:57 PM.
 
Old 08-14-2007, 04:57 PM   #4
Eastern Diesel
 
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No I havnt yet, because it smokes very very heavy so i figured it was getting plenty of fuel. Did I mess up when i put the rack plug in this 215 pump, the pump shop said it has 20mm of rack travel.
 
Old 08-14-2007, 05:18 PM   #5
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I've got the same problem... Smokes like crazy, but is running about 100 hp shy of what I'm almost positive it should be putting down.. I'm just about ready to send the pump somewhere and have it tuned properly and just hope it works...
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Old 08-14-2007, 05:24 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lucky Jeff
I've got the same problem... Smokes like crazy, but is running about 100 hp shy of what I'm almost positive it should be putting down.. I'm just about ready to send the pump somewhere and have it tuned properly and just hope it works...
Silly question- did you dyno with those wheels and tires? We've seen weird things happen at the drag strip when we swap stock wheels for 18's or 20's. Some have lost as much as 4 tenths with the bigger tires..
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Old 08-14-2007, 05:36 PM   #7
Eastern Diesel
 
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My pump is a 887. so after i put the 2000 rack plug back in where should i set my o plate. When my pump was on the stand at a local pump shop I think it had 20mm of travel
 
Old 08-14-2007, 06:04 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joefarmer
Silly question- did you dyno with those wheels and tires? We've seen weird things happen at the drag strip when we swap stock wheels for 18's or 20's. Some have lost as much as 4 tenths with the bigger tires..
I had 305/70/16's on at the time, they're actually shorter then a 285/75/16. I also had a blown head gasket, it ran 414 on a mustang dyno. But I don't think the head gasket had anything to do with it. Wasn't opened up between the cylinders, just the water and oil journals..

Looks to me like smkn should be higher then me given them mods and I was hoping to break 500
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Old 08-14-2007, 07:21 PM   #9
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Well for a comparison, I dyno'd 477hp with my plate and afc slid all the way back, and the turbos did not light until just shy of 2000rpm.
This may or may not help. Was the dyno putting enough load on the motor? That was my problem, trying to get the turbos to light.
Tim.
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Old 08-14-2007, 07:23 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smkn97's
I had my truck at the dyno and it only made 352 at the wheels the dyno isnt setup to read tq. but I was very disapointed with only 352hp. I was expecting at least 500hp.
Heres my mods:

HTT PRO street 66/13 stainless
Oring studded head ported bowls with 60# springs
215 pump, laser cuts, 4k springs, o plate,
rack plug, gutted afc, set at 500cc(can go up to 650cc if I slide plate)
.093 Injection lines, 370s
snow water injection (spraying just water)
Timing set at 18.5*

Am i doing something wrong when I dyno? I ran it up to 55, locked the converter, then punched it out to 120.
The lines are too big. Use stock or 2mm
You need the stock plug
Timing is good
Use your AFC with the stock spring
Use a plate forward, but make certain the AFC is working
Install boat injectors

Thats good for over 450. 500 with bigger sticks and more tuning. perhaps 19 degrees
 
Old 08-14-2007, 07:29 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smkn97's
I had my truck at the dyno and it only made 352 at the wheels the dyno isnt setup to read tq. but I was very disapointed with only 352hp. I was expecting at least 500hp.
Heres my mods:

HTT PRO street 66/13 stainless
Oring studded head ported bowls with 60# springs
215 pump, laser cuts, 4k springs, o plate,
rack plug, gutted afc, set at 500cc(can go up to 650cc if I slide plate)
.093 Injection lines, 370s
snow water injection (spraying just water)
Timing set at 18.5*

Am i doing something wrong when I dyno? I ran it up to 55, locked the converter, then punched it out to 120.
i think u have too much fuel

and its puttin out the fire..

setup with ur turbo should really light up and have plenty of power.. I feel that u have plenty of fuel, perhaps too much actually. check the fuel pressure with a gauge.... the gutted AFC dont help none either and teh rack travel mod well, i did feel a difference on my 215 pump... so i can argue with teddy bear there... no offense man...

anyways

did u start ur dyno run at 1500 or so RPMS? if so did the truck feel boggy? how much boost did you see? what were ur pyro readings? all of this comes into play..

im at a similar problem with my truck with 370s and 181s... with the twins i made only 450 horses, But u will learn that too much fuel will put out the fire too quickly and then clean up too easily once the chargers light, IE what happened with me with 16.5 degrees of timing on one of my last dyno runs, the chargers were lighting when i was out of RPMS due to too much fuel early on..

Just a consideration.. just get some tuning done or mess with it a bit longer and ull get it better...

Rick
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Old 08-14-2007, 11:22 PM   #12
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See I told you this place was cool Josh!

Some of the things people replied with sound familiar?

Keep us posted on how things work!
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Old 08-14-2007, 11:23 PM   #13
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You forgot to note that you dyno'd in 4th (OD).
I forget what affect that has on dyno numbers though..
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Old 08-14-2007, 11:26 PM   #14
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Can the rack plug detrimentally affect performance if the plate is slid back far enough to prevent rack travel past 16-17mm?
Why not leave it in and keep the plate slid back a bit rather than take the pump off again to put the stock one back in?
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Old 08-14-2007, 11:52 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobcat698
Can the rack plug detrimentally affect performance if the plate is slid back far enough to prevent rack travel past 16-17mm?
Why not leave it in and keep the plate slid back a bit rather than take the pump off again to put the stock one back in?
That's what I was thinking....but?
When my pump was on the bench I asked them to set the pump @ 17mm of max travel and they needed to slide my 0 plate full back to attain this, however I don't know if you could easily measure this with the pump on?
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Old 08-15-2007, 07:36 AM   #16
Eastern Diesel
 
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The guy that did my pump marked where my plate is set at 500cc but that is 18.5mm of rack travel. So I moved slid the plate back some more it should be around 17mm now.
 
Old 08-15-2007, 09:44 AM   #17
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What's this "rack mod" being referred to? Is this the rack plug change? If so, it won't make any difference. The plug doesn't affect rack travel. The stop plate does. Max rack travel is 21 mm on all pumps due the rack stop pin. Once max rack travel is reached, delivery valves are about the only thing that will affect fuel delivery on an otherwise stock pump. As 21 mm of rack travel is approached on the 215 pumps you get into the start-up notch on the plunger head. That will provide more fuel, but usually results in higher EGTs with minimal power improvements.

-Jay
 
Old 08-15-2007, 09:55 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JGK
What's this "rack mod" being referred to? Is this the rack plug change? If so, it won't make any difference. The plug doesn't affect rack travel. The stop plate does. Max rack travel is 21 mm on all pumps due the rack stop pin. Once max rack travel is reached, delivery valves are about the only thing that will affect fuel delivery on an otherwise stock pump. As 21 mm of rack travel is approached on the 215 pumps you get into the start-up notch on the plunger head. That will provide more fuel, but usually results in higher EGTs with minimal power improvements.

-Jay

Hi Jay,

If there is no stop/curve plate in the pump, the other plugs can allow the rack to travel past 21mm's. This does no good in making power anyway, just smoke and heat.

Personally I dont like modded DV's or the DV's currently used from other pumps like the 191's, etc.

DV's can add fuel by removing less volume from the line, but they cause many other problems. Good old 181's for me please

Glad to see you doing well in the races
 
Old 08-15-2007, 10:28 AM   #19
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Hey smoken97 I need that rack plug for my 95 if your looking to move it......
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Old 08-15-2007, 02:43 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Soup Nazi
Hi Jay,

If there is no stop/curve plate in the pump, the other plugs can allow the rack to travel past 21mm's. This does no good in making power anyway, just smoke and heat.
Hey, Don.

Now before I go on, let me qualify my comment. I am certainly no pump guru. I haven't taken any apart. My info comes from some long conversations with 2 Bosch certified techs with more than 40 years experience between them that both said the stop pin limits rack travel to 21 mm - no ifs, ands, or buts. This conversation occurred while they were rebuilding mine after a governor calamity. They had the dial gauge in the end and showed me full rack travel possible, from 0 to 21 mm. No plate in the pump at the time. They said that's all there is and there ain't no more.

So I have to ask, where's my disconnect here? Is there a part of the story that I'm missing? I'd really like to get this resolved so I don't make a fool of myself.

Thanks,
-Jay
 
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