jonjohnson88
New member
- Joined
- Jun 26, 2012
- Messages
- 61
Gonna attempt to help some people out who have thought about doing a swap on a 4th gen. I tried to take a bunch of pictures of the normal things people wonder about when doing an auto to manual swap, so hopefully it helps.
First off truck is a 2012, had 90k on the clock and the 68 threw in the towel, I read numerous threads and opted for the G56 swap instead of a built auto. I found most of the parts at a salvage yard, but be cautious and make sure you get everything needed. The interior parts came from the dealer, which actually wasnt as costly as I expected.
Starting out I ordered a street clutch from Mighty Diesel ( I dont plan on pulling just yet, will be upgraded when I get the truck where I want it). I managed to locate a used G56 out of a 2012 truck with 39k miles on it, was suppose to be a complete trans, but when my cousin picked it up, it didnt have the shifter or the top on the transmission. Dealer was unable to locate the shift mechanism, but I found one on Ebay from a dealer. Overnighted it was 490$. Had a friend make the actual shift lever.
Also figured I would get the crossmember from the G56 truck, but there was no need, they are identical. The driveshaft got bent when the donor truck was wrecked, so I couldnt acquire one. The auto driveshaft will work, but it is a little long. I had a local shop cut it down 2", cost 100$. Front driveshaft needs lengthened about 2" also.
Once the clutch was installed, I cut the whole in the floor for the shifter. Pretty simple , as the hole needed is already outlined, just cut around the outside edge of the indention. I laid cardboard down on the floor to keep sparks and metal from going all over and cut from the bottom. I removed the auto shift cable, but kept the grommet off of it and put back in the hole and put a bead of silicone around it to keep from leaking. Next was just removing the column shifter, and replacing the column cover with one for a manual truck. I got cover from dealer, I think it was around 60$, which is better than a big eyesore on the interior.
Next was the trans install, quite normal, especially easy with a good jack.
Knowing how noisy the G56 is, if you do the swap, make sure to get all three shifter boots. There are two underneath the cosmetic one. My truck is a crew cab, and it has the heater and ac vents in the back, but I had no trouble getting the duct back together after the trans was installed.
After the shifter and shift boots were installed, I pulled the brake pedal out, keep in mind to watch the brake light switch. You have to disconnect it from the harness then from the pedal or it will need to be taken apart and reset, or a new switch bought and installed. Once the auto brake pedal was out, the new clutch and brake pedal go into position pretty easily for the pin to slide through and get the c-clip on. The plug for the clutch switch is already in position, just have to plug it it once the hydraulics are installed, which is very simple. Just remove the plug in the firewall, put master cylinder in and put the nuts back on. You will have to tie the line to the slave cylinder up obviously, and the resevoir will need to be mounted with the self tapping screws that came with it.
The final thing to do in order to get the truck to start is to ground pin 4 on the auto transmission connector. I just pulled to convoluted tubing back before the connector and spliced into the wire going to pin 4, and ran it to the ground stud at the very bottom of the firewall and tied it up out of the way with the slave cylinder line.
All that is needed to complete the swap is a call to H and S, let them know the situation and they will walk you through how to flash a manual file to the ECM, which will turn off the PRNDL on the cluster.
I have one issue with my truck that I have not been able to figure out, but it is still driveable. Currently working on the problem to try and get it fixed.
No matter what tune I have loaded on the truck, whether it be completely bone stock with EVIC saying exhaust service required, or on the performance tune, the truck will cut out if put under a hard acceleration. Obviously this is most noticeable on the performance tune, barely noticeable on stock or tow. When it cuts out I get a dead pedal for about 10 seconds, and most of the clutster on the dash seems to reset, and occasionally the wipers will come on for one cycle.
The truck ran absolutely fine for over a week with no issues whatsoever, so Im thinking this isnt swap related. After looking through wiring diagrams, and recording the event with a scanner, the only thing that its been narrowed down to is the TIPM, or maybe the ECM. If anyone with knowledge on the 2012s has any ideas on this issue, feel free to chime in. Im always open to ideas.
Here is the link for the photos, let me know if it doesnt work and I will mess with it tomorrow.
[ame="http://s28.photobucket.com/user/jonathanj588/slideshow/"]Library Slideshow by jonathanj588 | Photobucket[/ame]
[ame="http://s28.photobucket.com/user/jonathanj588/library/"]jonathanj588's Library | Photobucket[/ame]
First off truck is a 2012, had 90k on the clock and the 68 threw in the towel, I read numerous threads and opted for the G56 swap instead of a built auto. I found most of the parts at a salvage yard, but be cautious and make sure you get everything needed. The interior parts came from the dealer, which actually wasnt as costly as I expected.
Starting out I ordered a street clutch from Mighty Diesel ( I dont plan on pulling just yet, will be upgraded when I get the truck where I want it). I managed to locate a used G56 out of a 2012 truck with 39k miles on it, was suppose to be a complete trans, but when my cousin picked it up, it didnt have the shifter or the top on the transmission. Dealer was unable to locate the shift mechanism, but I found one on Ebay from a dealer. Overnighted it was 490$. Had a friend make the actual shift lever.
Also figured I would get the crossmember from the G56 truck, but there was no need, they are identical. The driveshaft got bent when the donor truck was wrecked, so I couldnt acquire one. The auto driveshaft will work, but it is a little long. I had a local shop cut it down 2", cost 100$. Front driveshaft needs lengthened about 2" also.
Once the clutch was installed, I cut the whole in the floor for the shifter. Pretty simple , as the hole needed is already outlined, just cut around the outside edge of the indention. I laid cardboard down on the floor to keep sparks and metal from going all over and cut from the bottom. I removed the auto shift cable, but kept the grommet off of it and put back in the hole and put a bead of silicone around it to keep from leaking. Next was just removing the column shifter, and replacing the column cover with one for a manual truck. I got cover from dealer, I think it was around 60$, which is better than a big eyesore on the interior.
Next was the trans install, quite normal, especially easy with a good jack.
Knowing how noisy the G56 is, if you do the swap, make sure to get all three shifter boots. There are two underneath the cosmetic one. My truck is a crew cab, and it has the heater and ac vents in the back, but I had no trouble getting the duct back together after the trans was installed.
After the shifter and shift boots were installed, I pulled the brake pedal out, keep in mind to watch the brake light switch. You have to disconnect it from the harness then from the pedal or it will need to be taken apart and reset, or a new switch bought and installed. Once the auto brake pedal was out, the new clutch and brake pedal go into position pretty easily for the pin to slide through and get the c-clip on. The plug for the clutch switch is already in position, just have to plug it it once the hydraulics are installed, which is very simple. Just remove the plug in the firewall, put master cylinder in and put the nuts back on. You will have to tie the line to the slave cylinder up obviously, and the resevoir will need to be mounted with the self tapping screws that came with it.
The final thing to do in order to get the truck to start is to ground pin 4 on the auto transmission connector. I just pulled to convoluted tubing back before the connector and spliced into the wire going to pin 4, and ran it to the ground stud at the very bottom of the firewall and tied it up out of the way with the slave cylinder line.
All that is needed to complete the swap is a call to H and S, let them know the situation and they will walk you through how to flash a manual file to the ECM, which will turn off the PRNDL on the cluster.
I have one issue with my truck that I have not been able to figure out, but it is still driveable. Currently working on the problem to try and get it fixed.
No matter what tune I have loaded on the truck, whether it be completely bone stock with EVIC saying exhaust service required, or on the performance tune, the truck will cut out if put under a hard acceleration. Obviously this is most noticeable on the performance tune, barely noticeable on stock or tow. When it cuts out I get a dead pedal for about 10 seconds, and most of the clutster on the dash seems to reset, and occasionally the wipers will come on for one cycle.
The truck ran absolutely fine for over a week with no issues whatsoever, so Im thinking this isnt swap related. After looking through wiring diagrams, and recording the event with a scanner, the only thing that its been narrowed down to is the TIPM, or maybe the ECM. If anyone with knowledge on the 2012s has any ideas on this issue, feel free to chime in. Im always open to ideas.
Here is the link for the photos, let me know if it doesnt work and I will mess with it tomorrow.
[ame="http://s28.photobucket.com/user/jonathanj588/slideshow/"]Library Slideshow by jonathanj588 | Photobucket[/ame]
[ame="http://s28.photobucket.com/user/jonathanj588/library/"]jonathanj588's Library | Photobucket[/ame]
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