24V heat exchanger bolt into my 97?

Got Smoke?

Got Smoke?

New member
So I traded off my 5spd/DD for a full manual VB 47RE. I also got his heat exchanger and lines in the deal as I've heard its much better to keep the heat exchanger in a setup that see's street use/towing.

Is the heat exchanger a bolt in deal coming from a 24V application though, or will it take some modifying? Also how do I cleanly tap into the coolant system for the heat exchanger since my truck was a factory 5spd?
 
As long as you got the bracket with the cooler it should bolt right up. Without the metal tubes from the auto application I'd say the simplest place to tie in the coolant would be one of the heater hoses.

I'm not familiar with running a FMVB on the street. I guess you won't need to worry about getting an auto PCM and a TPS. Just run switches for OD and lockup.

Except for your left leg you'll be just as busy driving it as the 5-speed. What's the advantage?
 
I'd take the time to put it in the front bumper. You'll need to make a custom mounting bracket (very easy), coolant line, and trans line (I use barb AN fittings and Aeroquip line).
If you leave it in the stock location, you're going to hate your life with making downpipes at 5". I know it can be done, but I usually had to clearance mine with a hammer to avoid the noisy feedback.
 
Got Smoke? said:
So I traded off my 5spd/DD for a full manual VB 47RE. I also got his heat exchanger and lines in the deal as I've heard its much better to keep the heat exchanger in a setup that see's street use/towing.

Is the heat exchanger a bolt in deal coming from a 24V application though, or will it take some modifying? Also how do I cleanly tap into the coolant system for the heat exchanger since my truck was a factory 5spd?
Click to expand...

I have 2 trucks running FMVB on the street, neither have the heat exchanger. the truck would make trans temp sooner, but they run cooler now without it.
 
BigPapa said:
As long as you got the bracket with the cooler it should bolt right up. Without the metal tubes from the auto application I'd say the simplest place to tie in the coolant would be one of the heater hoses.

I'm not familiar with running a FMVB on the street. I guess you won't need to worry about getting an auto PCM and a TPS. Just run switches for OD and lockup.

Except for your left leg you'll be just as busy driving it as the 5-speed. What's the advantage?
Click to expand...

Only advantage is it being an auto Scott, but it was the only person I've found willing to trade me while I've been looking the last couple of years. With the constant pressure VB I don't need a TPS cable, and I can rewire the nuetral start switch and with it being a manual VB I won't need a PCM swap. I guess those are some advantages LOL

I can't wait to work on it but I need to order some ARP hardware first.

CorneliusRox said:
I'd take the time to put it in the front bumper. You'll need to make a custom mounting bracket (very easy), coolant line, and trans line (I use barb AN fittings and Aeroquip line).
If you leave it in the stock location, you're going to hate your life with making downpipes at 5". I know it can be done, but I usually had to clearance mine with a hammer to avoid the noisy feedback.
Click to expand...

Through searching I've seen a few people mount it there, but the lines are what worry me making & running them that far. Plus I still haven't figured out how to tap into the coolant system?

Mudn_1 said:
I have 2 trucks running FMVB on the street, neither have the heat exchanger. the truck would make trans temp sooner, but they run cooler now without it.
Click to expand...

So what do you run for a transmission cooler? I got his OE front mounted cooler, heat exchanger, and all the lines? Been thinking of picking up a 6.0L ford transmission cooler as they are HUGE and usually pretty cheap when you can find them. I don't have $400-500 to by some fancy cooler with fans and lines to mount under the truck. I'm looking for simple and reliable but would like to take it down the drag strip occasionally also.
 
Well as it turns out the guy I swapped transmission's with heat exchanger (came out of a 24V truck) would not bolt into my truck. There was a 1-1.5" gap from the trans adapter to the heat exchanger will it bolted in place on the motor mount.

Luckily I have friends with diesel shops with stock piles of stock parts. I was able to get the correct heat exchanger I need for my truck, and the nipple on the side of the lower coolant neck that has 2 ports for an automatic truck the same day I became aware of this.

Just wanted to update this in case any one else came across my thread in a search. If you have a 12V truck you MUST GET a heat exchanger out of a 12V truck to fit correctly.
 
I relocated mine to the right frame rail. Sits inside the fender apron.

Stainless braided teflon line for the ATF, and homemade copper pipe/silicone 90 degree bends for the coolant lines.

IMG_4295_zpsft7uw8ay.jpg
 
ofelas said:
I relocated mine to the right frame rail. Sits inside the fender apron.

Stainless braided teflon line for the ATF, and homemade copper pipe/silicone 90 degree bends for the coolant lines.

IMG_4295_zpsft7uw8ay.jpg
Click to expand...

Looks good there.... I'm still running a single turbo right now so stock location is the easiest for me. If my friend hadn't had an extra 12V exchanger laying around I would have remote mounted this smaller 24V one I had.

Do you have any more pictures of you're setup?

Also does anyone know if the rubber lines connecting to the metal tubes are dealer only parts?
 
Hi, I had the option of crimped rubber/metal tubes as well, but went with the braided teflon/stainless - both at my Deere shop, but any big rig/hydraulic shop will make both types.

Ignore the initial booger welds, was just testing for fit & angle before I brazed up the copper coolant return pipes.

Bit of a tortuous series of fittings off the coolant fitting to clear the alternator and my Webasto lines, but just a rubber elbow & re-using the factory black pipe line & no clearance issues, was working with whatever fittings I had laying around.

Painted & anti rust sprayed, works well, the tranny fluid comes up to temp quick enough.

IMG_4262_zpsz2pn6hld.jpg


IMG_4271_zpsgy01p1dy.jpg


IMG_4272_zpsjpvevdwp.jpg




Got Smoke? said:
Looks good there.... I'm still running a single turbo right now so stock location is the easiest for me. If my friend hadn't had an extra 12V exchanger laying around I would have remote mounted this smaller 24V one I had.

Do you have any more pictures of you're setup?

Also does anyone know if the rubber lines connecting to the metal tubes are dealer only parts?
Click to expand...
 
BigPapa said:
We just made a flat bracket out of a piece of steel on mine to make up the difference. Figured that was easier than changing out the fittings.
Click to expand...

I'm not that great at fabricating Scott and this correct unit was given to me.

I'm going to have to have at least one line made up now, and will probably do both in the end.
 
Fabrication is not that hard and the results outweigh the time spent and money saved.
PM me if you like.
 
I would just run either the factory cooler up front or an upgraded one. I ditched the heat exchanger a long time ago. The great thing about a FMVB is commanding lockup whenever and staying in the gear you need to be in. Which in turn, typically keeps trans temps down.
 
ofelas said:
Fabrication is not that hard and the results outweigh the time spent and money saved.
PM me if you like.
Click to expand...

Once again, I'm not that great of a fabricator. A friend with a repair shop had the correct heat exchanger as well as some other conversion parts I needed laying around and gave them to me, so actually I benefited from the situation.

Mudn_1 said:
I would just run either the factory cooler up front or an upgraded one. I ditched the heat exchanger a long time ago. The great thing about a FMVB is commanding lockup whenever and staying in the gear you need to be in. Which in turn, typically keeps trans temps down.
Click to expand...

For now I'm going to run it in the OEM location since I located the correct cooler, but I will have to have lines made since one twisted on removal. I do see what you are saying however and appreciate you're input!
 
ofelas said:
Hi, I had the option of crimped rubber/metal tubes as well, but went with the braided teflon/stainless - both at my Deere shop, but any big rig/hydraulic shop will make both types.

Ignore the initial booger welds, was just testing for fit & angle before I brazed up the copper coolant return pipes.

Bit of a tortuous series of fittings off the coolant fitting to clear the alternator and my Webasto lines, but just a rubber elbow & re-using the factory black pipe line & no clearance issues, was working with whatever fittings I had laying around.

Painted & anti rust sprayed, works well, the tranny fluid comes up to temp quick enough.

IMG_4262_zpsz2pn6hld.jpg


IMG_4271_zpsgy01p1dy.jpg


IMG_4272_zpsjpvevdwp.jpg
Click to expand...

Thank you! :rockwoot:
 
Hey anytime!
Keep me posted, you have a nice truck!
The heat exchanger and lines adds a couple quarts each of ATF and coolant, can't hurt.
 
ofelas said:
Hey anytime!
Keep me posted, you have a nice truck!
The heat exchanger and lines adds a couple quarts each of ATF and coolant, can't hurt.
Click to expand...

Well I got my line adapters, coolant hoses, and one oem steel line repair this week. I'm going to make a good run at it Tuesday on my only day off next week before our new daughter gets here on Friday. :eek:

I hope to have most of it in place ready to go, but I just don't see this thing being done before she gets here. :bang Should have been more productive on a couple of days I slacked off. I started working on my shifter mount yesterday, and once its done I still need to wire up key hot, OD & TC grounds.

Just for anyone needing the info 12V heat exchanger ports are 3/8 pipe thread, coolant hoses are 5/8" diameter, transmission lines are 1/2" JIC, and the fittings in the case are 1/4" NPT to 1/2 JIC.
 

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Congratulations on the baby girl!

Here's what this now looks like with lines aligned, all painted, and hit with anti rust spray.
 
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