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Old 09-20-2018, 01:17 PM   #1
iride813
 
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2wd drag truck suspension help!

So getting around to the suspension on my truck. In the rear itís getting a fully adjustable 4 link with coil overs. But on the front Iím not really sure what the best route is to go. Gonna have the rear setup so the 33/15 slicks are fully tubbed and would like for the front to be level but I still need to have a good bit of travel to help transfer weight. New to all this suspension stuff and curious what has worked for others!
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Old 09-20-2018, 05:19 PM   #2
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What's your truck? I have a 2wd 4500lb Dakota with a 4BT in it. Stock front v6 coils with double adjustable QA1 shocks and stock rear leafs with caltracs and double adjustable QA1 shocks. My setup works great and transfers weight good. I attached some pics where you can see my truck launching.
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Old 09-21-2018, 08:00 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by khaoskustoms View Post
What's your truck? I have a 2wd 4500lb Dakota with a 4BT in it. Stock front v6 coils with double adjustable QA1 shocks and stock rear leafs with caltracs and double adjustable QA1 shocks. My setup works great and transfers weight good. I attached some pics where you can see my truck launching.
Itís a single cab short bed ram. Has a built 12v should make around 800 to wheels. Itís fully gutted everything. Should be right at 4K with me in it Iím hoping
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Last edited by iride813; 09-21-2018 at 08:04 AM.
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Old 09-21-2018, 08:05 AM   #4
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Home made shortbed that is. Lol
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Old 09-21-2018, 09:34 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iride813 View Post
Itís a single cab short bed ram. Has a built 12v should make around 800 to wheels. Itís fully gutted everything. Should be right at 4K with me in it Iím hoping
I have a fully gutted scsb 12v with fiberglass front end and it is still 4750 without me in it..How did you get yours so light?
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Old 09-21-2018, 09:48 AM   #6
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Itís a single cab short bed ram. Has a built 12v should make around 800 to wheels. Itís fully gutted everything. Should be right at 4K with me in it Iím hoping
I'd run a lighter front spring to get the ride height you want then when you launch the control arms will have lots of available droop.
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Old 09-21-2018, 10:04 AM   #7
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I’ve been estimating based off everyone I’ve talked to and the amount of weight I’ve cut out. I’ve ripped every single wire out of the truck. It will be very limited on wiring running no intercooler no power steering no vacuum pump. Getting rid of the leaf springs as well as the rear of the frame. I was just going off what some people on here have said there’s weighed. Will be full plexiglass windows no tail lights or headlights just bare bones lol. I personally thought 4500 would be lightestni could get but some users have told me it will be a good chunk under that
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Old 09-21-2018, 10:10 AM   #8
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Numbers could be off that was just a guess. Will be a fiberglass front clip aswell by the time it hits the track. I cut the cowl out of it. Basically just the outer skin is all that’s left on the truck lol
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Old 09-21-2018, 12:16 PM   #9
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Numbers could be off that was just a guess. Will be a fiberglass front clip aswell by the time it hits the track. I cut the cowl out of it. Basically just the outer skin is all thatís left on the truck lol
Sadly, I think on my old truck the plasma cutter mods made more difference than anything else. Is your bed a ďtrueĒ shortbed, or did you make it even smaller?
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Old 09-21-2018, 01:04 PM   #10
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It’s the size of a regular shortbed. But I’m gonna but it up to the cab so the wheelbase will be about 2 inches shorter. What did yours weigh?
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Old 09-22-2018, 12:28 AM   #11
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The location you weld your 4 link brackets and their dimensions will dictate the front end height.

With where I located my four link frame brackets, my front end had to come way down. Lowering spindles, lowering arms, and shorter springs wouldn't do the trick. I had to go further.

My advice is to figure out a ballpark for your front height, before welding in your four link.
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Old 09-25-2018, 07:56 AM   #12
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The location you weld your 4 link brackets and their dimensions will dictate the front end height.

With where I located my four link frame brackets, my front end had to come way down. Lowering spindles, lowering arms, and shorter springs wouldn't do the trick. I had to go further.

My advice is to figure out a ballpark for your front height, before welding in your four link.
Iím going to drop the engine in the frame rails this weekend. Iíll go from there as to how far I want it to go down. Iíd like it to almost sit level front and rear. But I want my slicks to be tucked Atleast 2-3 inches into the bed at ride height. Looking like about a 6in drop in the rear From where it sits now. Truck is currently level with no engine or trans. Was told it has lowering coils for a 1500 in front. Not really sure if that is true or not
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Old 09-25-2018, 08:10 AM   #13
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Was told it had the beltech lowering kit they sale for 1500s front and rear. Rear had the shocks and drop shackles. But front coils look awfully thick
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Old 09-26-2018, 03:21 AM   #14
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Was told it had the beltech lowering kit they sale for 1500s front and rear. Rear had the shocks and drop shackles. But front coils look awfully thick
Often times, lowering coils are stiffer than standard coils. The way to think about it is that they lowered the truck two inches (sometimes more) while using most of the stock parts. So, now they have taken away two inches of travel(or more). Yet, they don't want the vehicle to bottom out. So, the spring must be stronger/stiffer in order to take the weight of the vehicle as it cycles the suspension, without collapsing or binding the spring.

For drag racing, you will probably want a softer spring than what is in the truck now. While a stiff spring keeps the front end from drooping, it also doesn't want to extend at the same rate as a softer spring. I'm sure some/most of my terminology is off. I am far from a suspension expert. I'm just passing along what I have experienced.
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Old 09-26-2018, 09:58 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crawler View Post
Often times, lowering coils are stiffer than standard coils. The way to think about it is that they lowered the truck two inches (sometimes more) while using most of the stock parts. So, now they have taken away two inches of travel(or more). Yet, they don't want the vehicle to bottom out. So, the spring must be stronger/stiffer in order to take the weight of the vehicle as it cycles the suspension, without collapsing or binding the spring.

For drag racing, you will probably want a softer spring than what is in the truck now. While a stiff spring keeps the front end from drooping, it also doesn't want to extend at the same rate as a softer spring. I'm sure some/most of my terminology is off. I am far from a suspension expert. I'm just passing along what I have experienced.
How far did you drop your front? Itís close to how Iíd want mine. But mine will be about 3 inches higher all the way around. Just from what I can tell by pics. Not going super low for now
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Old 09-26-2018, 12:01 PM   #16
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Going from stock 2500 springs to stock 1500 springs was a good 2" lower, possibly more.
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Old 09-27-2018, 01:07 AM   #17
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How far did you drop your front? Itís close to how Iíd want mine. But mine will be about 3 inches higher all the way around. Just from what I can tell by pics. Not going super low for now
I actually never tired to figure it out.

Basically I planned 2" drop arms, 2" drop spindles, and some 1500 stock springs. Then I realized that with where I welded in my four link, that my truck would be tugboating (rear way lower than front).

To get the front down I did the following.

I cut out the front spring cup from the frame, welded in an adjustable coilover mount, welded tabs to the lower a-arm(aftermarket arm) and measured the truck for AFCO coilover shocks.

This lowered the truck to the point that my upper ball joint was now the limiting factor. It was in a complete bind and the weight of the front end was being held by the balljoint rather than the spring. So, the upper a-arm was cut, tweaked, and re welded. At this point the truck was low enough in the front, but we could not get the toe anywhere close. So the draglink was sectioned in order to get the toe in spec.


I'll tell you this, it's low enough that if you run a stock depth oil pain, you will scrape it on a regular basis.

For a track only rig, it works.

For less time, money, and effort, or for a more streetable setup....

Front spindles
Lowering arms
Stock 1500 springs

Then with the engine in place and final weight on the front end, place jackstands under the framerail under the cab, level the truck on the stands.

Measure out the rear and determine location for the 4-link brackets. If done correctly, you should end up with a level rig without having to get silly with the front end.
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Old 09-27-2018, 01:32 AM   #18
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I'd measure it for you, however my engine is out at the moment.
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Old 09-27-2018, 07:30 AM   #19
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I'd measure it for you, however my engine is out at the moment.
This is the problem Iím having aswel not really sure how itís going to sit. I stood on the cross ember last night and the dropped a good 2inches or better and Iím about 280. . So Iím beginning to wonder if it already has 1500 springs. Anyone know what the diameter of stock 1500 springs are?
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