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Old 08-17-2009, 01:31 AM   #1
SWALLDOG
 
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Truck Build - DD, Tow Rig and play!

I started a thread about my truck build on another forum that some of you that get around might have seen (hasent been that long) but i thought that i would start one on Comp D also. so here are a few reasons for the thread:
-Get input from the Comp D members on how i can do things better/diffrent ect.
-share some things i have learned, mistakes i have made and ideas i have to maybe help other people and the diesel truck sport.
-help keep me motivated to get this project done.
i work as a diesel mechanic at a copper mine in utah and my schedule is a bit F*ed up. 4 days on 4 days off 12hr days 6 to 6. 2 weeks of days then 2 weeks of nights. the 4 days off is nice and i can get alot done, so the plan is when i'm on shift i can update this thread as to what i have gotten done over my weekend/days off.

So i got the truck 4 years ago this summer with the plan of it being a daily driver and a tow rig to take my jeep to moab. wanted to leave it stock for the most part because it would be my daily driver. well that dident really last to long, about 4 months i think untill the first mod. i've got this problem where i just cant leave anything alone. anyways here is whats done so far.

Whats been done:
2001 ex cab short bed silver 6 speed
turn over ball goose neck hich, spray in bed liner
5" top gun customz lift (which is stiff as a rock by the way)
255/70R 22.5 michelin XD2 on custom 8 lug wheels
ats arc flow intake and ats 3 piece exh. manifold
Edge drag comp
FASS 150/150
DDP 150 sticks
compound turbos (whc1 over a bht3b)
5" straight back exh.
SBC 3250 clutch
PSC high flow power steering pump
gauges, fuel psi, 2 boost and egt
thats all i can think of right now.

Now here is what i want to do:
-Hyd assist steering with a bigger steering fluid resivor
-steering box brace
-tie rod with over the road truck tie rod ends
-drag link to high steer arm with over the road truck tie rod ends
-build a new front axle which will consist of:
-14bolt center
-fabed steering knuckles with high steer arm
-full wheel spindles, bearings and locking hubs (maybe drive flanges)
-3rd gen front brakes
-air bags front and rear
-4 link rear end with track bar all with 3" ballistic fab joints
-new 4 link front end and track bar with longer arms and 3" ballistic fab joints
-move rear sway bar to the top of the axle
-build heavy duty sway bar links
-4.10 gears
-5" Exhaust brake
-move pass side battery back and build air box that will get air from the front bumper
-sport bumper front end
-HID head lights and fog lights

well there it is, subject to change at any time. chances are by the time you read this it already has.
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Old 08-17-2009, 01:39 AM   #2
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so i started another thread on here about the install of my Poly Dyn header. here is the link new header w twins! - Competition Diesel.Com - Bringing The BEST Together
long story short had to build a remote mount oil filter but in the end it worked out. here is what i ended up doing.
Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 08-17-2009, 01:43 AM   #3
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some of the things i have been working on the last few weeks.
i built my hyd assist steering set up. the box was leaking pretty bad so it was time to rebuild it and tap for the assist. here are some pics.

Click the image to open in full size.
box drilled and ready for fittings to be welded

Click the image to open in full size.
fittings w threads machined off ready for weld

Click the image to open in full size.
box all rebuilt, fittings welded on and caped off

Click the image to open in full size.
ram installed in place of old stabilizer

Click the image to open in full size.
rod end hooked to the tie rod
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Old 08-17-2009, 01:45 AM   #4
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so i also built some new swaybar links. i took off my drop brackets on my swaybar to get ready to build a steering box brace. and then my links would not reach or work cuz thay have that bushing and shaft on top that goes through the sway bar. anyways i had some old currie anti-rock links off a jeep. one was bent so i had to straiten it out. also had to build an adapter to hook the rod end to the sway bar. kinda geto but they will work for now. after driving it it even seems a little tighter, bushings must have been more warn out than i thought.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 08-17-2009, 01:54 AM   #5
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so this last week when i was trying to install my header i thought that i would check the waste gate on my top turbo. it had been really slow to spool, and i thought it was a boost leak. checked every where and no boost leat so that why i was thinking waste gate. well it was! the gate was pretty craced out! so i decided to throw my stock hx35 in its place. the waste gate on the hx35 is larger so i think that will help things also. here are some pics.

here is the banks exh housing that is cracked. looks like it got a little to hot!
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.

I think that the cracks must have already been started when i got the turbo. used. because i did see some small cracks where the turbo mounts to the manifold but i dident check any where else. here are the cracks that i saw when i first got the turbo thnkin that they were no big deal.
Click the image to open in full size.

this is the waste gate port on the hx35. i also machined a hole to waste gate exh from both side of the turbo.
Click the image to open in full size.

porting the hx35 to mach the new header.
Click the image to open in full size.

machining the inside of the compressor housing to make it a little smoother.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 08-17-2009, 03:24 AM   #6
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That looks like some sweet custom work you are doing. Its good to see people who dont mind building what they need instead of always buying a bolt on of some kind. Nothing wrong with that either, I just like seeing how people custom build things to get what they want.

Eric
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Old 08-17-2009, 03:41 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cummins Driver View Post
That looks like some sweet custom work you are doing. Its good to see people who dont mind building what they need instead of always buying a bolt on of some kind. Nothing wrong with that either, I just like seeing how people custom build things to get what they want.

Eric
thanks man. yeah i'm with ya on that, custom is the way. then you can build how you want and how you need it. plus you get the satisfaction of saying i built that, i made that.
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Old 08-23-2009, 07:21 PM   #8
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so a little update on whats going on with the truck. i got her running again! i was going to weld a bracket on the compressor housing to mount the waste gate but there was just not enough room so i ended up welding some bosses on the exh housing to mount the waste gate bracket. i used some 309 SS rod (i think) to tig weld them on. i also had to grind the welds off the little arm on the waste gate and turn the arm 90* so it would work. i forgot to take more pics. when i was getting ready to put it together i remembered to take some but i forgot to get some all together so i'll have to do that when i get home from work.

this is together with the waste gate wired shut.
Click the image to open in full size.

here is the bosses that i welded to the exh housing.
Click the image to open in full size.

another with the wg bracked part way bolted on and the arm on the wg that i had to turn 90* and re-weld.
Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 08-23-2009, 07:23 PM   #9
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so it runs pretty good. i need to do some tuning. i think that the waste gate is opening to soon. i'm going to tighten it up a turn or two and then make an adj. boost elbow for more adjustment. also need to hook up my drive pressure gauge to see what that side of things is doing.
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Old 08-23-2009, 07:24 PM   #10
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also when i took apart the hx35 the first time to install it in place of the cracked wh1c i noticed that the compressor housing had some oil on the inside walls. i was thinging that it might be from the k&n filter that i was rinning when i was running the 35. i cleaned it alot and always had it well oiled. thought maybe it was sucking some oil in. well when i took the compressor hoousing of this last time to make the waste gate mounts i saw this.
Click the image to open in full size.

guess its due for a rebuild. called around and most places want $100 bucks for a rebuild kit. prolly not going to do that. think i'm going to keep my eyes open for a HE351 3rd gen turbo. seems like a good turbo for the price. most people i have been talking to say its a way better alternative that a hx40 or a 35/40 hybrid. i guess i'll see what i can find.
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Old 09-10-2009, 07:14 AM   #11
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well i havent had alot of time working on my truck. been helpin a buddie finish up is rock buggie. but i have done a few things. was going to build a adj. boost elbow and hook up a drive pressure gauge to get things all tuned up right. well went to buy a new elbow to make adj. and i found this little needle valve.

Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.

thought it would work out pretty sweet, but i dont think it does. i think that it leaks. dont know for sure but ever sense i put it on it feels like it had a small boost leak. egt are a little higher than normal and it takes a little longer to spool up. so i'll prolly be ditchin that.
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Old 09-10-2009, 07:15 AM   #12
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i also got my drive pressure gauge hooked up. i made it with a quick connect so i could take it on and off easy. i only drove it a little but it was lookin like my drive and boost were about the same the whole time. then i decided to tear the rear end apart to install some 4.10's and ran in to a few problems. but thats a whole nother story. i'll get some pics of that and post it up.

Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 09-10-2009, 07:39 AM   #13
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Have you drove it since you put the hyd. assist steering on it? That looks like it would really help the box from wandering.
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Old 09-10-2009, 09:07 AM   #14
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Nice truck...and nice custom work.

What type of HP is achieved with your compound setup?

I know not all people have ben to the dyno so I am only wondering a guestimate.
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Old 09-10-2009, 10:00 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SWALLDOG View Post
well i havent had alot of time working on my truck. been helpin a buddie finish up is rock buggie. but i have done a few things. was going to build a adj. boost elbow and hook up a drive pressure gauge to get things all tuned up right. well went to buy a new elbow to make adj. and i found this little needle valve.

Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.

thought it would work out pretty sweet, but i dont think it does. i think that it leaks. dont know for sure but ever sense i put it on it feels like it had a small boost leak. egt are a little higher than normal and it takes a little longer to spool up. so i'll prolly be ditchin that.
Once again, awesome work man!

On your boost elbow, you may or may not have done it, but what you need to do is drill a very small hole on the wastegate actuator side of the elbow.

This allows it to keep the gate shut and makes it adjustable easier. If it doesent have that hole there, it will open the gate pretty soon, and also when you let off the throttle, it will take the gate a few seconds to shut because all the air in the actuator has to flow back through the elbow, which will take a seconds since it is a restriction.

Without that hole there, it will still open the gate at the same PSI, it just will take it longer because the boost has to go through the restriction, which will take it longer. But as soon as it is pressurized for a few seconds and enough air gets into the actuator, it will open all the way up(if the boost PSI of the actuator is reached)

Hope that makes sense, but that may solve the problems you are having as far as that goes.

Looking good!

Eric
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Old 09-17-2009, 06:52 AM   #16
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Have you drove it since you put the hyd. assist steering on it? That looks like it would really help the box from wandering.
yeah i've been driving it around for a few months. it does help tighten things up a bit in the front end. i still get alot of wonder but that is all in my track bar and the warn out ball joints.

Quote:
Originally Posted by chrapladm View Post
Nice truck...and nice custom work.

What type of HP is achieved with your compound setup?

I know not all people have ben to the dyno so I am only wondering a guestimate.
thank you. i dont know what kind of hp i'm running. there are people running 500 hp with a twin set up like that. i dont think i am even close to that yet! still got alot of tuning to do.
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Old 09-17-2009, 06:58 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cummins Driver View Post
Once again, awesome work man!

On your boost elbow, you may or may not have done it, but what you need to do is drill a very small hole on the wastegate actuator side of the elbow.

This allows it to keep the gate shut and makes it adjustable easier. If it doesent have that hole there, it will open the gate pretty soon, and also when you let off the throttle, it will take the gate a few seconds to shut because all the air in the actuator has to flow back through the elbow, which will take a seconds since it is a restriction.

Without that hole there, it will still open the gate at the same PSI, it just will take it longer because the boost has to go through the restriction, which will take it longer. But as soon as it is pressurized for a few seconds and enough air gets into the actuator, it will open all the way up(if the boost PSI of the actuator is reached)

Hope that makes sense, but that may solve the problems you are having as far as that goes.

Looking good!

Eric
hey thanks man, and thanks for the info on tuning. i've never heard any thing about that before. it makes sense, without that little hole it would all have to go back through the elbow. so depending on the size of hole you drill in the elbow will it change when the wastegate opens? cuz your just making a small boose leak in actuator circuit so it will take more boost to open it.
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Old 11-20-2009, 07:44 AM   #18
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so here is a little update on what i have been working on the last little while. it wasent really in the plan but it turned out to be a little bigger project than i thought. i wanted to change the gears in my truck because sense i have had the 22.5's on the low end was not really there and dident tow was well as it did. when i would tow my jeep to MOAB i would change the tires to some smaller ones ect. i did the math and 4.10's would be a perfect replacement for my 3.54's.

the problem is that there is a carrier break between 3.73 and 4.10's. and i dident want just an open carrier, i wanted to stay with the limited slip. so i called up randys ring and pinion and i was going to be like a grand in just the rear end for parts! so i stared lookin around thniking maybe i could find a dana 80 that was already set up with 4.10's that i could just throw in my truck.

the find: in my searching i found a pretty sweet deal on a dana 80. the guy said it was out of a late model ford 10 lug fire truck thing. well after runnin the BOM found out that it was out of a 96 chevy p truck. it was 10 lug but i had new 4.10's, bearings and carrier (Eaton Truetrac). it still had the gear marking compound on it. so i traded the guy some rock crawler parts and i had another dana 80.

the plan was to take the guts out of the 10 lug dana 80 and install them in the dana 80 that was in the back of my truck. :thumbsup: i wish it would have worked out that smooth but that was a no go come to find out that the 10 lug dana 80 has 37 spline shafts and the 80 in the back of the dodge is only 35 spline. called around about getting some custom shafts made but the only people that could do it was like CTM. and it would have to be a double spline shaft and would be around $1300 bucks for the pair. scrach that idea. looked on dana's web site and found all the 37 spline shafts they made and none would fit for one reason or another.

the new plan: i really like the 10 lug dana 80. the hubs are huge, 37 spline shafts and that Eaton Truetrac is just sweet! so i decided to convert the 10 lug to 8 lug and install it in my truck. i would have to re-machine the 10 lug hubs to 8 lug, move the spring perches and install a wheel speed sensor on the housing. i am also going to use the rear brakes off the dodge on the the new 80. figure it should work out pretty smooth.

so after a lot of work its just about done. if all goes well today i will be driving it to work tonight to start breaking in the new gears.
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Old 11-20-2009, 07:44 AM   #19
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here are some pic's of the 10 lug dana 80 as i was taking it apart. it had some sort of chevy disc on it. dident have calipers but i looked in to getting some. they have the park brake built in to the caliper. cool but wasent really going to work for what i was doing. thought i would just use the dodge disc with little drum park brake. besides the brakes are already caliberated for the truck. and then later when i have to change the pads i dont have to remember what pads to get ect.
Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

pic of the Eaton Truetrac
Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 11-20-2009, 07:46 AM   #20
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pic with all the old brackets cut off and cleaned up.
Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.
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