Roll Cage Help

M

MOcum

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Mar 25, 2009
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Picking up the materials for my cage today and was curious how everyone else has theirs built.

NHRA says that any vehicle with a OEM frame must have the cage attached directly to the frame, that seems like itd be a bit tougher to do than bolting it to the floor.

Also, the bar that comes past the front seats from the roll bar, do I need those bars on both sides or just the driver side? (This truck won't be surpassing 9.99)
 
the bars need to be to the frame on a full frame car or truck. only unibody cars can have bars bolted or welded to the stock floor.
 
As stated above the bars must go to the frame. Here is a pic of my main hoop bar, where it attaches to the frame.

2005_Dodge_Roll_Cage_Install_028.jpg


I am using a roll bar instead of a roll cage. On a roll bar, you are only required to have one door bar (drivers side of course!), but I think it looks better with two. Both of my door bars are swing out. A roll bar is legal to 10.00.

Paul
 
Thanks guys! Do you have pictures of how your door bar attaches to the frame?
 
Mine has a plate on the floor and a plate under it six holes drilled thru the two plates and floor its bolted together that way if the cab ever did have to come off. its easy i have passed NHRA and IHRA techs with it
 
That's what I am wanting to do with mine so it won't have the bigger holes in the floor and it seems to me like itd be a bit easier build
 
:nopics:

Devon E said:
Mine has a plate on the floor and a plate under it six holes drilled thru the two plates and floor its bolted together that way if the cab ever did have to come off. its easy i have passed NHRA and IHRA techs with it
Click to expand...
 
yes all have the bolted plates I will try and get some pics.
there are six plates in total two in the very front that secure the front door bars and the halo bars. two that secure the main hoop and two that secure the rear down bars . and when i checked last night the main hoop had 8 bolts holding it the rest have six
 
My entire cage attaches like Paulb's. Door bars and all. I made outriggers that rant the entire length.
 
Best bet is to get either a NHRA Rule Book or even a S.F.I. Rule Book. Do it right - do it ONCE.
 
IMG_0142.jpg


IMG_0143.jpg


Make outriggers and tack them onto the frame, tack hoops and down bars to the outriggers, break the tacks on the outriggers and drop entire cage down below the body and frame for final welding. Now using a couple jacks raise the cage and make final adjustment before solidly welding the outriggers to the frame. BTW the small sq tubing was just a brace to keep the front and rear loops in the right position while you drop the cage down for welding. :Cheer:

Aaron/HD Fab
 
Our cage in Casper uses a Y-shaped tube mount to the frame. I think I posted pictures of it, but I can't find them. This will be stronger and lighter than most designs, but it's more work since it's welded to the frame in two places.

You will want to make a removable door bar. We got sick of the fixed bar very quickly. Ours is attached in the front to a bar that goes the length of the rocker panel near the floor, from the main hoop to the front hoop. This adds weight, but doubles the protection for the driver in a side collision. It is also a great mount for the fire lines and the window net.
 
Are the flat peices of sheet metal considered 'outriggers' to ? I bought a S&W 10 point cage. It came with 4 peices of square tubing I guess to weld to the frame like the photos above? And about 8 or so 7"X7" flat peices of sheet metal. In the directions it shows to weld the flat peices to the body on the inside of the cab to make more surface area when mounting?
 
I think the flat pieces are if you are going to weld the rollcage to the body. Our rollbar was that way. You might have trouble getting it certified. We had to change ours to frame mount. Pat knows more, and I'll ask him.
 
Yup, the square plates are probably there for unibody cars which are still allowed to have the rollbar mounted to those plates instead of passing through the body down to the frame. NHRA changed the rule many years ago, requiring direct frame mounting for any vehicle with a true frame. If you are building a true cage, you are also required to have a "sill bar" which extends outward from the frame beneath the driver (which also serves as a place to mount the main hoop and front hoop to the frame). Think of it like a mini Nerf bar which is tucked in against the floorboards.

Regards,
Michael Pliska
 
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