Looking for 4500 bell housing with reverser pics

Wiltse

Wiltse

New member
I'm in the process of moving up to a open driveline class. I was looking for help and pictures of a mid motor mount. I'm gonna try to keep the 4500 bellhousing.
 
Here is the way i did mine, I made the motor plate that you see
 

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Jeremy, if you don't mind, I have a question about that mount... Do you mill off the thickness of that mounting plate from the rear cover of the engine? Or what exactly is done so that things still mate up propperly?

I'm guessing you also made plate that goes between the reverser & the 4500 bell?


Looks good. Thanks for sharing.
 
Yes i milled the thickness of the mid plate off the engine backing plate to keep all my tolerances the same as oem specs. I wish i could take credit for the adapter plate but i cant that was from Van
 
Does adaptor require material be milled off the bell or the reverser or does the shaft have enough spline length to properly go into the clutch far enough or do you order the reverser with specific shaft length?

Just curious. Thanks for sharing.
 
The adapter plate is atleast an inch thick. There was no material removed from the reverser or bellhousing. The adapter was made to the specs needed. The reverser is just the standard length shaft that is splined far enough to run a tripple disc clutch. Its still in the truck but when i get it out i will measure it cant remember the shaft length
 
DISTURBED said:
Yes i milled the thickness of the mid plate off the engine backing plate to keep all my tolerances the same as oem specs. I wish i could take credit for the adapter plate but i cant that was from Van
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So you are still running the stock engine/bellhousing adapter just machined down the thickness off the new rear engine mount that is sandwiched between the adapter and the belhousing right? On our truck running a blow proff can we made a set of actual mid plates (2 half inch plates) that adapt the belhousing to the rear engine...Tricky thing with the Cummins though is how the rear main seal sticks out behind the block which then requires a 1" thick mid plate.

Is there then an adapter needed for bolting the belhousing to the reverser or is the bolt patern the same as a NV4500?

RyanB
 
RyanB said:
So you are still running the stock engine/bellhousing adapter just machined down the thickness off the new rear engine mount that is sandwiched between the adapter and the belhousing right? On our truck running a blow proff can we made a set of actual mid plates (2 half inch plates) that adapt the belhousing to the rear engine...Tricky thing with the Cummins though is how the rear main seal sticks out behind the block which then requires a 1" thick mid plate.

Is there then an adapter needed for bolting the belhousing to the reverser or is the bolt patern the same as a NV4500?

RyanB
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No, the mid plate that goes frame rail to frame rail is 3/8 aluminum. I machined 3/8 off of the OEM backing plate to keep everything to oem specs and sandwiched the new mid plate between the bellhousing and OEM backing plate. As for the reverser there is a 1 inch plate that is between the bellhousing and profab it is not a direct bolt up
 
Wonder if the chevy 4500 bell is the same as the dodge? I seem to recall it's different and won't allow as large a clutch to be used? Think that was what chris watson mentioned?
 
SmokeShow said:
Wonder if the chevy 4500 bell is the same as the dodge? I seem to recall it's different and won't allow as large a clutch to be used? Think that was what chris watson mentioned?
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Actually, there are two problems with that. First problem is that unless using a D-Max (I asume your talking about a cummins) is that you would have to make an adapter plate or use the off-set style bread truck/TH400 adapter. The other problem is that it deffinatly is for a standard size clutch and not the large cummins style flywheel.

My whole issue with using the stock belhousing mated to a reverser is that in the end you are running the very weak cast aluminum belhousing and have no way to upgrade to a blow proof belhousing without breaking the bank! The stock dia clutch is way to big for any blow proof can out there thats actually being made. I personally do not like the idea of running a belhousing blanket at anything over 5000rpm...even with a fully SFI clutch and blanket! with my feet within inches of the belhousing its way to big of a risk to me and thats the reason why on our new truck we went with an actual can which means we have to use one of the smaller, more expensive 4 disk clutches!

RyanB
 
RyanB said:
I personally do not like the idea of running a belhousing blanket at anything over 5000rpm...even with a fully SFI clutch and blanket! with my feet within inches of the belhousing its way to big of a risk to me and thats the reason why on our new truck we went with an actual can which means we have to use one of the smaller, more expensive 4 disk clutches!
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I do not understand this comment. Are the blankets and clutch cans rated differently? I have not looked, but I was under the impression that they had the same SFI rating.
 
j-rod said:
I do not understand this comment. Are the blankets and clutch cans rated differently? I have not looked, but I was under the impression that they had the same SFI rating.
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I believe the blanket on my NV5600 (stroud) had a 4.1SFI rating and the rating on our blow proff can we have now is 6.3SFI so they are deffinatly rated differently.

There are also so many variables when it comes to the saftey aspect of blankets that I just don't feel comfortable with. In some applications its hard to put the blankets on properly...epsecially when the cab clearance is very close. The other major thing for me is that its called a "blanket" and as much as it may be tested...I have my doubts that a sharp 5lbs piece of broken flywheel or couple pound sinerated disk will be fully stopped by a blanket where it actually has an inch or more before it hits the blanket.

On our can, it has a titianium liner that in the event of a clutch explosion, the centrifical force of the pieces hitting the liner will break a tiny little shear pin and allow the liner to spin inside the actual can its self. If it where to make its way past the liner it still has more than 1/4" of hydro-formed steel to go thru before it makes it way to my feet!!!

I feel ALOT safer with the Can and is well worth the $1600, and if you take off the difference of the adapter plate for the NV4500 belhousing and the Blanket...that price is probably cut in half!

RyanB
 
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It was one of Haisleys can's. I believe its a Lakewood. The only major issue with running a can is that you have to either buy or make the belhousing adapter which due to the rear main seal on the Cummins has to be a 2 piece unit made up of 1/2" plates.

Ryan
 
Good thing I'm more interested in a Dmax with standard gm bolt pattern. ;). LOL

I doubt I'll ever be able to build an ODL truck but it's fun inquiring about some of the details. I really appreciate you sharing. :cheers:
 
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