2006 duramax to buy or not?

otisd85

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so im going to look at this 2006 chevy duramax this weekend, it would be my first duramax and i am curious what all of you think. here is a link to some pics of it in my photobucket account.

[ame="http://s881.photobucket.com/user/otisd85/library/?view=recent"]otisd85's's Library | Photobucket[/ame]

the dealer is asking $11k for this truck.

the truck is a 2500 crew cab long box 4x4 with the manual 6 speed zf6 work truck package with rubber floor mats, vinal seats, and crank windows. i have heard to check the upper radiator hose for head gasket problems, and remove the oil fill cap to check for blow by. the dealer told me that the transmission makes a noise between gears but he cant really describe it to me. the truck has 263,000 miles and if i buy the truck i am going to assume the tranny needs checked out, replacing the clutch while its out, and looking into the pump rub kit for the t-case. i will also be checking out the front end, steering and suspension componets,these are all things i want to factor in when i make my decision on what i am going to be willing to pay.

a buddy of mine has a snap on mt 2500 scanner he is going to let me use, and show me how to check the balance rates of the injectors. besides balance rates and other codes in genral, are there other things i should be checking with this scanner?

what other things can you advise me to look out for and check when looking at this truck?

what are some of the things you noticed about your truck after your purchace that you wish you had noticed before your purchase?

are there any issues you can think of that you would consider a deal breaker?

if it were your money, what do you think this truck is worth?

in the pic of the guage cluster, the tach shows that its running, temp guage shows that its cold, and the oil pressure is just under 60. is this normal with this kind of milage, or is it something i should be worried about? after the test drive and its warmed up, what kind of oil pressure is acceptable?

thank you in advance for any tips and advice you are able to share. otis
 
Seems a little high for the miles and in work truck trim, my no brother good in law bought a 2004 GMC LTZ with 160K on it for 15,500 a few months ago.
 
With that many miles and you don't know what
has been done to it, you are taking a chance'
Injectors, tranny, front end work. Could be a lot
of money.
 
Both the LLY and LBZ are solid motors. Rarely ever have injector problems. The LLY's are said to have HG problems...I don't think they are prone to it more than any other model my self. It would be a good idea to plan on getting a dual disc clutch anyways.

My father has an 05 LLY, 260,000 miles on it. Had a 100hp superchips tune on it since it left the lot brand new. He's put a water pump on it and that's it. Factory brake pads and everything still.

If the truck has been maintained half decent I wouldn't hesitate buying it.
 
i would agree that the price is a bit steep, with the wt trim, milage, and unknown transmission issue, but price wont stop me from looking at the truck and trying to negotiate it down to more reasonable price. i have been looking for a truck with the wt package, i want rubber floor mats and vinal seats. i wouldnt mind power windows and locks, and im not a huge fan of red, but nither of those things are what i would consider deal breakers. im more interested in having a dependable, reliable, mechanically sound truck than having all the extra frills.

http://www.kbb.com/chevrolet/silverado-2500-hd-crew-cab/2006-chevrolet-silverado-2500-hd-crew-cab/work-truck-pickup-4d-8-ft/?vehicleid=349341&intent=buy-used&mileage=264000&condition=fair&valuation=b&ref=http%3a%2f%2fwww.kbb.com%2fchevrolet%2fsilverado-2500-hd-crew-cab%2f2006-chevrolet-silverado-2500-hd-crew-cab%2fwork-truck-pickup-4d-8-ft%2f&options=4154650|true|4154706|true|4154734|true|4154883|true|4154790|false|4154883|false|4155184|false|4154812|false|4154872|false|4154905|false|4155180|false&pricetype=private-party

again the dealer is asking $11,000, and im going to try to negotiate down from there, but even with no options, and 263,000 miles, in fair condition, kbb is $14,000. i feel that is unreasonbly high, but would like to hear what others think is a fair price.
 
i understand this is going to be a bit of a gamble, and ive done qiute a bit of research to learn as much as i can, to help me make a informed decision, and to reduce the risk as much as possible without just deciding aginst it before i even look at it.

ive done a bunch of internet reading, but im not real familiar with this body style of chevy or the duramax, and thats why im asking for oppionions of those that are.

one of the things i have read is the 06 duramax with the zf6 has the lbz engine, it just has the lly tune. is there any truth to this, or is that just another internet legend?

also, i emailed the dealer about getting the carfax, whatever thats worth. they havent got back to me yet, but ill post it up when they do if there is anything interesting on it.

thanks again. otis
 
Y'all would be surprised at exactly how well duramax's hold their value.

11k for an 06 is pretty good at least for my area. It took me months to find my 03 LT for $12k, and I look all the time to find a better deal and there really hasn't been. So $11 for an 06 base model is pretty good I'd say do it.

Sent from my KFJWI using Tapatalk 2
 
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do you guys that have posted have any suggestions on things to look out for?

if i get the truck i plan on replacing the clutch when i have the transmission out, with 260+ on the clock im sure it would be ready anyways. i was thinking id go with a south bend 450hp-650hp kit that comes with a solid flywheel. back when i was looking them up it seems like the south bend kit that eliminates the dual mass flywheel was only like $200 or so more than a stock clutch. but dont quote me on that.
 
Has the truck been tuned before or 100% stock? Pop the hood and check the coolant level. Drive it around and get it warmed up then romp the **** out of it, see if it's burning coolant. Might as well pop the oil fill cap while she's running and check for blow by. See if the exhaust stinks like raw fuel. The best thing you can do is give the truck a workout and listen to it.
 
the dealer sent me the carfax and it says it was purchased in october of 05, commercial owner. then sold in march of 07 with 103,000 miles. then purchased april 30 2007 listed as a personal owner. the last time it was registered was in december of 2012. june of 2013 it was sold at a dealer auction, then again in august it was sold at a dealer auction, then the last report was september 2013, offered for sale, dealer inventory.

after seeing it has been sold at least twice at dealer auctions two months apart, and been sitting on this lot for 2 months, im kind of leary. maybe its without cause, but that seems strange to me.
 
Has the truck been tuned before or 100% stock? Pop the hood and check the coolant level. Drive it around and get it warmed up then romp the **** out of it, see if it's burning coolant. Might as well pop the oil fill cap while she's running and check for blow by. See if the exhaust stinks like raw fuel. The best thing you can do is give the truck a workout and listen to it.

thanks, this is the kind of info im looking for. do you have any comments on my original questions? i.e. oil pressure, things to check with the code reader, or anything in general you wish you had known about before you purchased your truck?
 
Both the LLY and LBZ are solid motors. Rarely ever have injector problems. The LLY's are said to have HG problems...I don't think they are prone to it more than any other model my self. It would be a good idea to plan on getting a dual disc clutch anyways.

An '06 LLY is just an LBZ with a different name. no HG problems to speak of.

Y'all would be surprised at exactly how well duramax's hold their value.

hell yeah. I've been offered 10k for my LB7. Boggles my mind.

one of the things i have read is the 06 duramax with the zf6 has the lbz engine, it just has the lly tune. is there any truth to this, or is that just another internet legend?

truth. all '06 trucks were essentially LBZs.

do you guys that have posted have any suggestions on things to look out for?
transfer case leaking. smoking at idle. diesel in oil. blowby. I always look into the oil filler and look for goo from lack of oil changes.

oil dilution and smoking aren't nearly as much of a concern with LLY/LBZ as injector failure rate is LOW but it is still worth looking at. a free GMVIS report from the dealer can give you an insight into what sort of work was done to it at the dealer.
 
An '06 LLY is just an LBZ with a different name. no HG problems to speak of.



truth. all '06 trucks were essentially LBZs.

this truck was manufactured in October of '05, so it was sold as an '06. Would this mater? Is there differences i can look for to make sure it is the lbz with the lly tune and not a true lly?

Thanks, Otis.
 
Also, no sparkplugs, could you please elaborate more on this goo? I know exactly what you are taking about, but I've only found said goo when taking engines apart. Is there somewhere i could check without disassembling the engine? What do you mean when you say check into the oil filter? Is there anything you can do besides looking at the brand and condition of its exterior trying to determin how long its been there?
 
If it is an 06 truck (10th digit of the VIN is a 6), it is an LBZ motor. The tune in it isn't even an "LLY tune", it just isn't an LBZ tune. If you still have doubts, look at the picture below. Notice the air filter box in the bottom center of the picture has a round top, and the cast aluminum intake pipe in the center of the picture has a grid heater in it (the square thing just behind and to the left of the alternator with the green connector plugged into it).

The reason it didn't sell before is probably because it is a work truck package with a manual transmission. Not exactly a desirable truck unless someone is looking for it. There's a reason GM quit putting manual transmissions in them after 2006. They didn't sell.

engine1.JPG
 
Also, no sparkplugs, could you please elaborate more on this goo? I know exactly what you are taking about, but I've only found said goo when taking engines apart. Is there somewhere i could check without disassembling the engine? What do you mean when you say check into the oil filter? Is there anything you can do besides looking at the brand and condition of its exterior trying to determin how long its been there?

not oil filter. i'm talking about where you put the oil in at. on most cars, you can remove the oil cap and look down onto the valvetrain and see whatever sludge has accumulated. come to think of it, this may not be helpful on duramaxes due to the way the oil fill neck is routed.

edit: let me repeat; check the transfer case! a rebuilt tcase is over $1000.
 
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thank you josh, the 10th didget is a 6, and with what you described yo look for, this looks to be a lbz, yes?
 

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okay, oil fiLLer not fiLTer, sorry, my bad. i have a buddy with a mechanics camera on the end of a flex deal with a screen ill try to bring that along too and see what i can see with it. thanks thats a good idea.

im going to do some more research on the transfercase pump rub, is there any other problems with the t case, or anyhting else you can give me the heads up on?

thanks otis
 
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