Lowering a 4x4 correctly

90dodge said:
With cutting one coil out of the front, does the track bar need to be modified?
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From what I can tell so far and from others I've discussed this with I won't need to run a shorter trac bar.

I'll be able to tell you for sure once I get everything back in it at full weight but that's going to be a while yet.

I plan to run AFCO's on all 4 corners (without the coil part) but I MIGHT just run straight coilovers on the front rather than coils. After talking with AFCO they're confident they'll handle the weight plus I'll have some ride height adjustment going that route
 
I plan to run AFCO's on all 4 corners (without the coil part) but I MIGHT just run straight coilovers on the front rather than coils. After talking with AFCO they're confident they'll handle the weight plus I'll have some ride height adjustment going that route[/QUOTE]

What AFCO shocks are you looking at?
 
Keep in mind on a 3rd gen if you get low enough you will have to shorten the driveshafts.
 
cummins2getu said:
What AFCO shocks are you looking at?
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I'm between 2 different options

AFCO Eliminators $330ea (Front)
http://www.jegs.com/i/AFCO/921/3850/10002/-1

AFCO Big Gun $360ea (Rear)
http://www.jegs.com/i/AFCO/921/3850BG/10002/-1?parentProductId=2114658

Or

Jegs Double Adjustable $203ea (Front and Rear)
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performance-Products/555/64905/10002/-1?parentProductId=

As for the Jegs brand I've heard from others they are a quality coilover and the price is substantially less obviously. After talking with Jegs they advised me to consult with Strange about their product which leads me to believe it may just be a re branded strange double adjustable with a slight difference in valving. I haven't talked with Strange about this yet though. If that does end up being the case I'll more than likely give them a try and may just do so anyways.



JasonCzerak said:
What is the minimum distance one might wanna run before hitting the bump stops?
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As it sits currently I'm around 2 inches off the bump stops if I remember right. I plan to just cut them out and run a shock mounted bump stops more than likely though. Totally depends on what final ride height ends up being.

I'm betting on there being a good 1 1/2" of squat minimum once the motor is back in.

I can go out and get you some measurements if you like next week. I've been planning on going and getting some weights from a friend for simulating the the motor, turbo and transmission anyways for my own measurements so I can make a little headway on this never ending project.

I'm running shock tower deletes but can slap a factory tower in place if need be also if you need them from there.

These are the control arms I'm running. They're light, strong, rebuildable, adjustable, and I already had them before I lowed the truck. Problem is Kore no longer makes them so they're hard to find. But then again almost every suspension company out there makes some or it's pretty simple to make your own if you wanted.

th_0611or_06_z20045_Dodge_Ramcontrol_arms_zps0cb07ff9.jpg


These guys make some really nice custom length bars also for VERY reasonable prices. Both adjustable and non-adjustable

http://thorbros.com/catalog/4-link-parts/4-link-bars
 
I have 1/2 ton coils in the front and 2 leaf springs and a 1 inch block in the rear. And i left my track bars from my 5 inch lift on the truck when i lowered it. They were only 3/8 longer than factory and it doesnt seem to affect anything. But i only have about a inch of travel before hitting my bump stops.
 
adamsmarshall said:
From what I can tell so far and from others I've discussed this with I won't need to run a shorter trac bar.

I'll be able to tell you for sure once I get everything back in it at full weight but that's going to be a while yet.

I plan to run AFCO's on all 4 corners (without the coil part) but I MIGHT just run straight coilovers on the front rather than coils. After talking with AFCO they're confident they'll handle the weight plus I'll have some ride height adjustment going that route
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This is good to know. Did they suggest a certain shock, or mention anything about re-valving them ? Usually with a true coil over, you want them mounted at a slight angle as well.
 
murphy41 said:
This is good to know. Did they suggest a certain shock, or mention anything about re-valving them ? Usually with a true coil over, you want them mounted at a slight angle as well.
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I didn't get that far in depth with them as of yet as I want to try to scale the truck before we go into valving and such.

As for the slight angle that's not a real big deal with adjustable control arms.
 
I cut 2 coils out of the front and removed all but 2 springs and took out the rear block, had to shorten the rear drive shaft too
 
so going with a slightly shorter control arm isn't necessary or if i have the opportunity, go for it?
 
JasonCzerak said:
so going with a slightly shorter control arm isn't necessary or if i have the opportunity, go for it?
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You shouldn't need shorter, I can't remember where I heard it, and don't really understand why it would be the case until I get everything back at weight, but someone mentioned that at times you need slightly longer arms vs shorter ones. Something to do with turning radius and the tire making contact with the fender.
 
adamsmarshall said:
You shouldn't need shorter, I can't remember where I heard it, and don't really understand why it would be the case until I get everything back at weight, but someone mentioned that at times you need slightly longer arms vs shorter ones. Something to do with turning radius and the tire making contact with the fender.
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When you lower it, the axle will move forward or back, depending on your set up. If the truck is lifted, and the control arms are sitting at an angle rather than flat or parallel to the ground, and you lower it, the axle gets pushed forward as the control arms become flatter, or closer to horizontal. Not much, but if your tire is big enough, you might rub the fender, where you didn't before
 
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Sidious said:
When you lower it, the axle will move forward or back, depending on your set up. If the truck is lifted, and the control arms are sitting at an angle rather than flat or parallel to the ground, and you lower it, you push the axle forward at the same time. Not much, but if your tire is big enough, you might rub the fender, where you didn't before
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Oh I agree completely and understand the theory, but being that the axle SHOULD move forward slightly due to the control arms being more parallel with the ground vs where they would normally sit at a slight downward angle when at factory ride height, the idea of making them longer doesn't make a whole lot of sense in my head until I can see how it sets at full weight.

Could just be due to other angles changing with shorter coils, tires size, etc. But you know what I'm getting at.
 
Jason,
i run 305/50/20 420's, QA1 adjustables all around, 1/2 ton 4x4 coils, and 4 leafs in rear.
Front fender-well opening is at 37", rear is 40".
I may remove one more leaf to make it exactly level, it will do you just fine.
mura7evy.jpg

guhehuja.jpg
 
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Looking at it guessing, I'd say about 2" drop from factory height. And he didn't mention anything about taking out the spacer block though.
 
So the shocks in the front should be for 2" less than stock and the rear I'll need to go 4" since I'm already down 2". Stock control arms and change out the U bolts in the rear and validate drive shaft length's.
 
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