Leveling kit

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Whitenightmare

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Jan 13, 2020
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Hey guys, I’m planning on a 2” leveling kit on my stock suspension, 01’ 2500. Do I need an adjustable track bar also?
 
Think that’s the proper way to do it. Some do it without the adjustable track bar though.
 
Adjustable track bar helps, longer control arms made a huge difference as well.
 
Or reverse level, replace the factory 4" block with a 2" block. Mine was stock when I bought it, did leveling coils first, then swapped back to original coils and the shorter blocks in the rear. The difference in ride and drive from raised leveling to lowered leveling was crazy! This route allows use of standard parts in the front end.
Here's a picture of mine reverse leveled on 285/75/16 tires.
0476fe1c90bd442e73f746ba34e5caa5.jpg


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That’s what I intend to do next^

I’ve heard the ride is much better. Knowing what little bit I know about keeping the control arms parallel to the ground on off-road rigs, it makes sense.

J Pipes, is yours still an inch or so high in the rear? Was looking to do ~2” blocks, but also remove the overload and shortest leaf as well.
 
bateman said:
That’s what I intend to do next^

I’ve heard the ride is much better. Knowing what little bit I know about keeping the control arms parallel to the ground on off-road rigs, it makes sense.

J Pipes, is yours still an inch or so high in the rear? Was looking to do ~2” blocks, but also remove the overload and shortest leaf as well.
Click to expand...
I think its still a pinch higher in the rear.

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If you just do spacers that will ruin the ride quality.
I have 2" rough country coils and the stock tracker with napa rubber bushings. And extended control arms. Rides a bit better than it did with spacers but not great. The 3.5" blocks and factory shocks in the rear dont help. Mine is a 3rd gen though.
 
Like Turbo Bark said, 1.5" longer control arms will make a bigger difference than an adjustable track bar, but you really want the track bar as well as you will have a safer setup, and get much less bump steer.
 
I’m really loving my new (to me) cummins! I definitely appreciate the knowledge on this board! Bought it with a super blown auto trans and swapped to nv4500 last month. Fun truck to drive!
 
I would definitely steer you towards the reverse level if you don't care to have a higher ride height and suspension travel.
 
And instead of spending the money on the correct geometry parts needed in the front for a traditional level kit you could spend it on a shackle flip kit to remove the block altogether in the rear.
 
May not be worth messing with though actually since you'd likely have to fabricate your own shackle hanger as all the ones I've seen are two low for a stock height truck. I could be wrong though it's never been something I've been into just a though for your build.
 
Makes sense, I’m about a 1 1/2” difference front to back. Different blocks in the back should level it out nice. Thanks man
 
If you go that route, and are still itching to spend money, I'd say go for quality shocks.

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I have Carli 3 inch springs up front along with there 3rd Gen adjustable Trac bar, tubular control arms, and bilstien 5100s all around. Rides like shiet.
 
Ha! I mean, we have to remember. These are 3/4-1 ton trucks. The first thing that was I mind was durability not ride quality. I’ve owned pretty much every version of 8 lug truck out there. (Chevy, Ford , dodge) compared to my 01’ f350 , this dodge I just got rides really nice! Compared to my wife’s Audi , the dodge rides like a cinder block. After sleeping on it I think I want 2” spacers , adj track bar and we’ll see what happens
 
Any time you raise the ride height you really should get long arms. The reason why the suspension companies really do it for sub-6" lifts is because most people don't want to cut their stock control arm brackets and lose their ability to return to stock and they would rather sell you more parts. I've got the Carli coils, leafs, arms with their tuned 3.0 kings and I'm not that impressed with the small bump compliance. In my opinion long arms are very much needed because even with the half inch longer(also I don't know why I typed 1.5" above, sort for the typo) the angle is still much less than ideal for a smooth ride.
 
Meant to say why they don't do long arms for sub-6" kits, let alone for 2nd gens(can't make much money on the older trucks)
 
I bought a 08 f350 with a 6 inch rough country lift and a rod knock to fummins swap. Gotta tell ya it rides about 3x as good as my 2nd gen
 
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