Automatic questions

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BigB82789

New member
For those who pull with an automatic. Do you watch the pyro or the boost gauge when leaving the line? More heat lights the charger faster when rolling the sled out right?

With my set-up I can't hold the truck back to make boost in low range. In high I can but I only use the low side when pulling, so I'm thinking next time to build heat and leave from there.

Another question. When ever I put the selector in the 1 position and wind the rpms out to redline then shift I hop. Bad. If I leave it in drive it shifts to 2nd quickly, then 3rd right as the turbo lights. Should I pull 2nd then if I run out of rpms jump to 3rd?

Heres my last pull. Selector in D. You can hear it shift to 3rd right as the turbos lighting. Oh and that cracking grinding noise is just my Dana 70 giving up. Never mind that..:bang
 
Manual 1 is stronger, you are using the low/reverse band to help the overrunning clutch. My guess is you aren't shifting fast enough and it starts to defuel on you. It doesn't seem like you try very hard to spool the charger.
Here is some dedication!

http://video.thedieselgarage.com/category/Street+Racing/7/b400d0d8-7667-45e1-b3b9-983200c50a7f.htm

Here is the truck today, with a much larger charger. Convertor selection is crucial.

http://video.competitiondiesel.com/video/1abf6dd1-f963-4b34-b7ef-9b0a0170ec6b.htm
 
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I can't sit there like that..It just pushes through the brakes. Maybe now that I have an 80 out of a dually the bigger brakes will help out. In my video I brought the rpms up a bit and then went. I basically gave up on building boost at the line.
 
BigB82789 said:
I dont stand on them that hard. just doesn't seem good for the lines...
Click to expand...


LOL

Like sled pulling isn't hard on the truck?
You just broke the ring and pinion. If your worried about being hard on the truck, then don't hook it!
 
I know I know..I broke the brake lines before at the dragstrip..but they were pretty rusty. I got that fixed now.

And no that wasn't a ring and pinion, that was an axle shaft and 2 spiders.
 
watch the EGTs get them up. They are what spools the turbo, boost is along for the ride.

you shouldn't neet to do much just enough to get it spooling. And if your turbo spools quick just roll into it off the line.

Not 100% sur ethis works on the dodges though.
 
I watch the tach, but I know the characteristics of my charger. I have about 20 psi when I leave the line.
 
nate said:
Do you guys lock the convertor? Just wondering how the trans isn't downshifting... maybe enough power?

Last time I pulled the truck was completely stock other than a Smarty. Pulling that sled felt like I was trying to pull a house off a foundation!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3R4VFgQtq54
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yea i had a converter lock up switch. I locked it up when i was leaving the line at 40 psi boost. water would kick on at 30.
 
zstroken said:
Here is some dedication!

http://video.thedieselgarage.com/category/Street+Racing/7/b400d0d8-7667-45e1-b3b9-983200c50a7f.htm
Click to expand...

Wow! over 90 secs to get it going, I'm just curious, what do your egt's do while bringing it up on the line?

Remember this is from a manual guy who has never pulled with an auto, but why not just put a higher stall convertor on to make it alot easier to build the fire on the line? Any downsides to this for a puller only that doesn't see the street?
 
That had a silver bullet and a very tight stall.
I have since loosened the stall and run a much bigger charger. Issue with the stall and charger I run now is the streetability has went south.
I was just trying to make it through the season without having to drop the tranny. It was hot, humid that day, which doesn't help.
Building boost the EGT is about 1000-1100. Drawback I see to doing that everything is becoming heat soaked. Probably good for not cracking parts, but probably not really good for saving aluminum pistons!
 
Dan likes to make sure his transmission fluid is boiling before he leaves the line.:hehe:
 
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