14+ hour overflow valve replacement (priming issues)

T

TheBullRoars

New member
As advertised, 3 minute job. But the air that went into the system made it impossible to bleed the lines. Bled at filter housing, and then at ofv. Fuel up to that point. But no amount of cranking will put a drop through any of the lines at the injectors. Many cranks, battery charges, thousands of hand pumps @ the lp, to no avail. Tried cracking all injectors, 1 3 and 5, just 1 etc. No effing fuel

After searching I found its best to pressurize the tank. I got a compressor w a blow gun, and fit a valve stem into a fuel cap

I will put 5 lbs in, then bleed the filter housing screw and ofv. Should I crack open all the injectors and let the pressure bleed them? One at a time? Crank the motor after pressurized w one cracked?

More than frustrated and stranded. Had to miss work over this.

Will be getting an air dog setup a fn sap but in the meantime.. how do I get the fuel through when its basically locked up with air?
 
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Shutoff solenoid lifting all the way? Hear fuel moving through the overflow valve when you prime it with the primer bulb?
 
I have to manually move the valve to start it. It is flipped up each time.I've been dealing with this in heavy rain on the side of the road so I can't hear much. But if I loosen it and pump the primer I get fuel there
 
Verify that the shaft going into the pump is turning with the shutoff solenoid lever, it is keyed and sometimes the key falls out or shears. Why did you replace the overflow valve? Have you tried reinstalling the old valve? If you have fuel when priming out the overflow, crack #1 injector and see if you have fuel there while cranking engine with the solenoid lifted.
 
Have not tried the old valve. Was having a surge/shudder at low rpm. Was told it might help.

Have new sticks, d valves, sump, and air dog on the way but I wanted to figure out the low rpm "miss" first
 
Also I tried what you suggested many times but not w the old valve

Also starter fluid would spin it but no fuel to keep it going
 
This happens on my truck quite often when opening up the fuel system. It sounds like your pump is air locking. What I did to solve this was individually pull the diverter valves from back to front. Pull the rear, pressurize tank, wait for fuel to fill the chamber, put dv back it, put holder back on and move forward.
Hope this helps

-Jon
 
jcarrick said:
This happens on my truck quite often when opening up the fuel system. It sounds like your pump is air locking. What I did to solve this was individually pull the diverter valves from back to front. Pull the rear, pressurize tank, wait for fuel to fill the chamber, put dv back it, put holder back on and move forward.
Hope this helps

-Jon
Click to expand...

^^ This

It would be a pain in the arse everytime I opened up the fuel lines for me as well until I switched to the FASS
 
Turns out the cheap ofv was defective. The spring was messed up and binding.

The OEM one had 4 ports instead of 2, no ball or spring, and the capacity inside the bolt was much higher


Stock one is back in and its running. Still have my off-idle low rpm surging but at least its on the road
 
Will do. How do you like your 63 turbo and what do you think it would be like behind an auto? I was looking at one

Today in the mail I got a bunch of stuff

5X18s
Sump bowl (we will do 1/2 inch line to lp)
4k gsk w 60 lb valve springs
"Competition" delivery valves

Gotta figure out optimal turbo
 
I love my 63! Tmoney (manning motorsports) on here is who to get them from for a good price. Edit: optimal turbo for all your fuel would need to be bigger than my 63.
 
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Been there, done that with the stock fuel system.

Put the Airdog on and dont look back.

Like was said above do the tork tek OFV at the same time, the stocker will bypass too much fuel for an electric pump.
 
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You can put a bic pen spring in your over flow valve for the time being. Y
I would consider a 66/71/14 they aren't really that laggy. I realy liked mine. It probably still wouldn't clean up that much fuel.
 
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