47RE Shift Issues

Bersaglieri

Bersaglieri

Ron Swanson's Brother
Joined
Jan 8, 2008
Messages
1,957
Well guys I have been screwin' with my 47RE for long enough and it's time to enlist the help of my peers. I have a shift problem with my DTT Valve Body, thought it was because it was a 2001 V/B, so I got a 1997 version from DTT. After messing with it for 5 weeks, the damn thing still only shifts from 1-2 at 1200 RPM, then almost immediately right into 3rd and quickly there after lockup at part throttle. At WOT from a stop, it goes right into 2nd at 1200, bogs, revs to 2000, hits 3rd, then locks up and bogs again, at this point its barely at 30mph.

I thought it was a TV cable problem, so I bent the crap out of the TV cable holder there on the transmission, all the way back till it's touching where the fluid line exits the case. I still cant get the full travel out of the level so that it's bottomed out at WOT, it's got about 1/2" left of travel.

So do I need a new TV cable or should I fab something to get more travel out of the lever? Or should I be adjusting the other parts on the valve body? I saw a thread a while ago where guys were using the set screw and the pressure lever stop screw on the side of the V/B to adjust shift points and pressure. I dont care if the thing shifts like my Full Manual Valvebody Drag Car trans, but I need it to shift higher at WOT and Part throttle. Like 1700-1800 part throttle and 3200ish full. Obviously it was supposed to be setup to do this from DTT, but I think the issues are on my end...I hope.

-Dustin-
 
That was surprisingly informative. So my stacked shifts are due to the throttle pressure screw, and the super soft shifts are the main line pressure screw, and the WOT shifts are the TV cable, correct?

I remember one guy saying his throttle pressure screw was almost all the way in.

Would I be wrong to assume this should have been setup before the V/B arrived or is this typically for all V/B installs?

-Dustin-
 
I would get the TV cable ironed out first, then screw with the VB. If you do a bunch of stuff at the same time, you don't know what changed what. The TV will effect part throttle as well as wot upshifts.
 
Well with the TV cable shortened as much as possible, bending the bracket and shortening it at the throttle linkage it still shifted about the same and has about 1/4" of travel before it bottomed out. I turned the throttle stop screw in until only 3 or so threads were left visible. This raised the WOT to 2000rpm 1-2, and 2200 for the 2-3 shift. Part throttle 1-2 is still around 1350 or so, 2-3 around 1500.

I'm thinking that even if I bottom out the throttle stop it still wont have good part throttle shifts, and for WOT I'm going to try and shim the bracket at the trans to get the TV cable shorter.

I have to ask myself, is the TV stretched? You shouldnt have to bend, shim, and shorten it this much just to get 3000rpm shifts out of the thing...the TV cable press-stud, should it be facing up or down? That's the only thing I can think of right now thats might be causing it not to get enough movement, although it's kinda late and I cant remember what it looks like.

It's not a GSK problem is it? I mean I have the 4000rpm springs...idono it's late, I'm hittin the hay :bang

-Dustin-
 
Call DTT and get advise. They may send you some differ springs for the 1-2 and 2-3 shifts to play with. I currently have a very early shift into 3rd unlocked under light throttle. However, Bill sent me a bag of goodies to play with. Have you checked the pressures and rpm between each shift to varify its within specs? IMO take it back to your installer (if you had it done that way) and have them fix the problem. If I was home I'd be glad to help.
 
Well I'm waiting on a reply from DTT. The last time I called Bill advised me to make sure the TV cable was 1/16" from bottoming out. I've done that and still does it. He's like the man behind the curtain, kinda hard to get ahold of.

No I have not checked pressures and I installed the valvebody. The trans was Goerend dealer built with DTT Billet hardparts, converter, and valvebody, has maybe 7000 miles on it. The dealer advised me to run Goerend stuff, but I stuck with the brand I had. I called and talked the Goerend dealer the other day and he wasnt sure what the problem could be, all of his Goerends are working fine.

I appriciate the offer for help.

-Dustin-
 
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