4K GSK help

RedPuller

RedPuller

Diesel Inside
Joined
Jan 27, 2007
Messages
1,217
I recently installed the smaller springs needed to turn my 3K into a 4K gsk and was wondering about the amount of clicks needed to set them up.
When I removed the lock, I counted the clicks and had 6 on one set of springs and 1 click on the other set of springs. Put the locks back the same way, 6 clicks on the one side and 1 click on the other. All these click are past the intial click to lock the keeper. It idles fine, very close to the same as before, maybe 50-100 RPM +/- but right at about 800.
What I am curious about is, would it be to any benefit if I fiddled with it some more and took say 3 clicks out of the set of springs that took 6 clicks of pre-load and added 2 to the one that took 1 click of pre-load to make them the same with 3 clicks of pre-load on each set of springs? Or is the best way to set it up by the idle conditions, like too high of idle back some clicks out, too low idle, put some more in. Basically just wondering what benefit if any to the amount of pre-load on the spring sets.
Obviously the best way to try it is trial and error but I figured I would ask here first rather than making large oil messes on the ground by removing the plug on the side each time for an adjustment.

Thanks, Joe
 
I saw that thread but it does not answer my question as my pre-load set-up on my springs right now does not reflect that "standard" listed. I just want to know if it will benefit me at all to leave the pre-load setting where it is or take 3 out of the one set and add 2 to the other.
Since you refered me to that I guess I can try putting 3 clicks on each set of springs and see how it runs.

Thanks, Joe
 
Smokem. I have not seen you much on here. So how did the springs ever work in the 215 pump?:evil If need be pm me.
 
Smokem said:
Do not run the tension on the governor assemblies uneven, it is mentioned in that thread.
Click to expand...
Guess I missed that part.

Got everything all dialed in correctly after taking all the springs back out and checking for shims which indeed I did find some on the bottom of the largest spring which I was certain I had removed but obviously not.
After I got it back together I ended up having 8 clicks on each spring set in order to get idle up to 800RPM. Couldn't believe how many clicks it took as well as how little each click affected the idle. But each spring set is even now and works great all the way to 4000RPM!:rockwoot:

Just wondering now why my idle was not all over the place with such an uneven preload on each spring set. I heard that it should have been oscillating pretty bad to a certain extent but I guess I had it set where it was good with the amount of shims that were still inside.

Joe
 
One thing I just noticed about the pics in the instructions that Smokem gave was that the second pic has all the springs for the gov kits. In the 3rd pic it has the springs for the 3K kit but what confuses me is the 4th pic. I was told by Mark @ PDR when he sent me the springs needed to turn my 3K into a 4K that I left the 3K springs in the pump and just needed to add the 2 smaller ones that he would be sending me.
Now I am wondering if by running all the springs in that second pic that I may have turned my 3K kit into possibly a 5K gov kit?? I can understand now why it took 8 clicks rather than the 3 listed in the instruction by Smokem due to running all the springs rather than just the ones in that last pic.
Guess I am gonna give Mark a call back in the morning and make sure he told me right since he did say do not remove any of the 3K springs and just add the smaller ones being sent to make it a 4K.

Joe
 
So they worked out better then you thought they would? Do they duel any better?
 
Smokem said:
Still tuning them, got the tach hooked up and right now with 3 clicks they stop around 3200RPM. I need a little more tension but they pull WAY harder than the standard 4K GSK.
Click to expand...

Here's a possibly completely stupid question..
If everyone is getting the spring kits to up the tension, thus keeping the weights low in the governor longer for prolonged fueling, why keep springs in there at all? Why not replace the spring with a copper tube, etc. to prevent the governor from kicking it at all?
Remember I only understand the very basics of the pump itself... :bow:
 
So tell me if I'm missing something here..

With less spring tension, you get more fueling due to more rack travel, but at lower RPM with it cutting fuel earlier as the RPM's increase...?
And then the opposite should be true with more spring tension??
Less travel and fueling in low RPM but gaining rev's on the top before it shut's off?

I'm not in the loop with the spring mods your doing.. But from what I'm getting, wouldn't you want the hardest "small" spring you could get if the above holds true? and softer outer springs to keep the fuel down low as well???

I'm just trying to figure this all out, still deciding if I want to 3k my pump when I get the truck back together.. Before teardown it would start sounding like a 2 stroke at about 28-2900, I guess this is the governor kicking in, but it pulled hard all the way there. I'd like to get a few more rev's out of it.
With your mod pulling hard to 3200, that's sounds like something I might want to get info on. :rockwoot:

Thanks
Brad
 
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