Advice for 500-600 hp

C

Cummin 4 Ya

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Alright, im only 16 and have a 03 cummins and want to build it for my senior grad project next year and to race for my high school so I i am wondering what i need to make it a good 550hp on only #2. so the list i have for mods that im going to install are
Ats stage 2 tranny
100hp injectors
industrial injection silver 64 turbo
ats arc flow manifold
intake
6 inch turboback exhaust
head studs

now my main problem is the choice for electronics to stack
i'm not sure if i can have the tripple dog down loader with the outlook monitor so i can change it on the fly which would be stacked with a mp8

the smarty and mp8 is most likely the way i will go but i want to be able to change both of my electronics on the fly

if anyone knows what combos are the best and that can change power levels on the fly let me know please.

but so far what other things should i add or change so post what you think
 
6 inch exhaust is unnessary, 4 inch would be enough but 5 is more popular. For electronics stacking the Smarty with the TST is a good option. You could do a lot better than an ATS trans.
 
ATS is just over priced stuff.

Here is a list that is cheaper and more efficient:

64/71/13 or 64/65/13
Flux 2.5's
Stage 2 CP3 at least.
Smarty/MP-8
Goerend/HTS tranny
Home made 3" intake horn
Home made intake(Whistler type)
4" or 5" exhaust
Airdog 150 or Walbro 392 with 2 micron filtration
 
you can change the smarty on the fly with the POD. I would definately go with the smarty mp-8 stack i love it. The first thing you should do is get your tranny done first. It will be the most expensive project that you will have to deal with. If you are planning on launching hard and using a torque converter lockup switch you will need atleast a billet imput shaft and probably a billet output shaft.
 
I would look into an HTS trans not ats, you can get alot more for the money. 5" exh. is a couple hundred dollars cheaper than 6" that you dont need
 
Put a Dmax LBZ cp3 120hp sticks 64/71/13 or 64/65/13 ATS or PDI manifold is optional makes it sound better IMO and go talk to Dusty and Marrianne at HTS they are good people and when you call you will be talking to one of them not a paper shuffler at ATS. An airdog or Fass and I made my 5 inch have less then 250 in it and its been on there for 3 years you can buy the over the axle pipe for like 140 bucks and weld the stock hangers to it then just go to a truck shop and buy a straight pipe and band clamps looks as good and lasts longer in my experience. Cant go wrong with a smarty and MP8 stack. Should make what you want pretty easily and might be close to 600 with good tuning
 
Expandit 5 inch full turbo back is right at 300 and the fit is perfect. I love the smarty mp8 stack. Personaly I wouldn't run TST smarty stack because of all the horror storys and blowin engines.

Iam running a 07 5.9 with 100 horse sticks, bd manifold, Silver bullet 66, and all the lil stuff with smarty only I made 615 and 1200 with very little tuneing time and my cp3 couldn't keep up with it much less with the mp8. I will hopefully have a dragonslayer cp3 when I go back to dyno so I can run the mp8 crankd up
 
As others have stated, stay away from ats trans. From my experience with ATS with less than 5K miles, I had to replace the vb, co-pilot and then I pulled the trans, to have a billet input shaft installed, an ats dealer disassembled my whole trans. to find that my clutch pack was burnt up. ATS said they'd rebuild the trans. but I had to pay for ship. round trip ( $500-$600) plus taking a chance of the trans. getting damaged during shipment. I wasn't a happy camper after all, didn't even have 5K on it.

I loaded up the trans. ( in pieces ) and took it over to a HTT dealer (and also an ATS dealer). I told him what the deal was with ATS and he shook his head. He took care of me very well.

ATS's co-pilot works well for some and doesn't work well for others. Mine felt like it wanted to break something when engaging/disengaging, real rough until someone suggested cutting the map sensor wire. I tried that and it works now!! So, after all said and done, I put about $5900 in a stg II ATS trans. not including my labor.

If I wasn't a rookie when I bought the trans., (with my knowledge now) GOEREND TRANS. is what I'd go with. From what other have stated about Dave, he stands behind his product 100%.
 
Fleece Performance has a good charger set up for the 550 to 600 horse range allowing it to still be streetable they are probably about the most reasonable prices that you will find.
 
ya Fleece is good Chase and Braden are awesome guys thats who set me up with the injectors and cp3 I was going to get a stage 3 cp3 from floor it or industrial but chase set me up with the LBZ cp3 and 120hp sticks for a good price and it holds plenty of rail pressure i should have went with 150s but mine was the first 03 they had done that set up with so we went conservative. The LBZ Dmax cp3 flows alot more then the stocker and is compareable to a stage 3 for alot cheaper. I wanted there custom charger that was a 64/71/14 with a race cover on it but i got mine for 800 on here so I couldnt complain.
 
Cool project!
First off, don't overkill it. Big smokey trucks that don't make HP suck..
5" exhaust, S&B intake, CFM+ or Glacier Intake Horn, Grid Delete. FLux 2 or 3 (DDP50's work for me also) SuperBSpecial turbo and a Raptor Fuel Pump. Do an Arson or II CP3 Mod, rail pressure is super important. Smarty POD with a MP8 if you need it. This is easy 600HP, we have several trucks with this combo.
For the trans, go with Goerend, nobody stands behind their parts better than him.
 
i dont know about the heater grid delete i dont know where hes located but I know here in Indiana we had a day last year it was -19 so I dont think the small gain in airflow would be worth not having the grid heater. If hes in a warm climate go for it just my opinion. My truck has 120s and a cp3 and with the smarty on 60 hp (which is what i normally drive around with) isnt smoky at all unless you intentionally lock the converter and lug it.
 
Agreed in the grid delete, though I have no problem in tahoe a 0 degrees, it probably is a good idea to leave it in. As for the 120's and Smarty on 60hp, I guess I would rather use the Smarty to make the power and not spend the money on the big injectors if you don't need them You definitely have more potential with the big sticks if you have enough air to make them worthwhile, but for the OP's goals, they are overkill.
 
after reading all what i have read and hearing all the very good things about garmons diesel performance and the work hes done with the CR's id say just give them a ring im sure he could take care of all of your needs quality service good trans hes got the secret tunes and head stud torque so id say call him.
 
Erik@LCD said:
Agreed in the grid delete, though I have no problem in tahoe a 0 degrees, it probably is a good idea to leave it in. As for the 120's and Smarty on 60hp, I guess I would rather use the Smarty to make the power and not spend the money on the big injectors if you don't need them You definitely have more potential with the big sticks if you have enough air to make them worthwhile, but for the OP's goals, they are overkill.
Click to expand...

OK im not trying to derail his thread but i think id rather spend the same or a little more money for 100 120s or even 150hp injectors and a cp3 and not have to run the smarty and mp8 on kill thats why I run mine on the street on 60 hp with a little timing, moderate torque management, and a little pressure then the pedal isnt super touchy it gets good mileage smokes when you want it to and is clean when you dont need smoke. Then you dont have to run a lot of pressure which is hard on injectors. For the record with mine turned up with the charger it has it has a little haze will hit about 1400 at the end of the dragstrip and doesnt climb much after that. It makes about 50psi of boost and I can tow a 15k gooseneck with no problem so I guess you get to 500hp a little different but this way I have a way to tune it and dont have to run it turned all the way up
 
Cummin 4 Ya said:
Alright, im only 16 and have a 03 cummins and want to build it for my senior grad project next year and to race for my high school so I i am wondering what i need to make it a good 550hp on only #2. so the list i have for mods that im going to install are
Ats stage 2 tranny
100hp injectors
industrial injection silver 64 turbo
ats arc flow manifold
intake
6 inch turboback exhaust
head studs

now my main problem is the choice for electronics to stack
i'm not sure if i can have the tripple dog down loader with the outlook monitor so i can change it on the fly which would be stacked with a mp8

the smarty and mp8 is most likely the way i will go but i want to be able to change both of my electronics on the fly

if anyone knows what combos are the best and that can change power levels on the fly let me know please.

but so far what other things should i add or change so post what you think
Click to expand...

DIY CP3, rv cap, Airdog or raptor, tranny of your choice, S&B, 4 in str8 pipe, 90-120 stix, 64mm , good programmer/mp-8 or TST stack. Gonna put you around 550 or more. Budget build that'll let you put money where it counts in the future. Scratch the huge exhaust, studs, and the arc flow.
 
what about the ats aroura compound turbo setup that uses a 5000 and the stock charger is that a good option to go and after time i upgrade the stock turbo to a 62 or 64 mm turbo
 
I would suggest saving your money and going with a single 64/71/14 charger which will support the hp range you are looking at.
 
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