Aftermarket shifters. Cable mount.

bateman

bateman

Active member
Can anyone help me out with a picture of the bracket and cable where it attaches to the trans?

It looks like the B&M supplied bracket is going to cause some issues with the fitting on my front hose. I’m using a 45° AN fitting and looks like a 90° fitting wouldn’t work or at least not well. I do have a low profile 45° that might gain a bit of room, but not positive.

There is a LoganBuilt cable bracket that mounts higher but I can’t find a pic of it.

Would help greatly to just lay eyes on it so I can think this out ha.

Using a B&M Magnum gated shifter. 47RH.

Thanks.
 
Dig a bit deeper and found this. Shows how close the cable is and apparently how this person fixed the problem. I’ll eyeball the tight 45° fitting I have tomorrow. Maybe it will work.
 

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Here is my 47rh linkage. used it with an Art-Carr winters shifter and now my cheetah air shifter.
 

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Vincejax said:
Here is my 47rh linkage. used it with an Art-Carr winters shifter and now my cheetah air shifter.
Click to expand...

That is excellent thank you. Did you make the bracket?

Any more pics of that beast?? Only ever heard about it I think ha
 
Ahhh I must have missed the thread. I know I’m always giving you and Jason hell haha I dig the dinosaur race trucks
 
Yep I had to make one up also, the supplied bracket didn't work. In the end I finally bit the bullet and swapped in a column shifter. Prefer oem looks and function in my old age.
 
Awesome thanks for the info. I think I can get away with the tight 45° and the LoganBuilt bracket that mounts on the ear up above the front cooler line.
 
I just modified the bracket, added a relief cut to it and bent it a bit, then used a 45* an fitting.

Worked perfect. This was off the bracket supplied with a Hurst quarter stick.
 
Thanks Jason. I’m actually in the garage now looking to see if I could mod the bracket a bit. Might try that. Looked up the hurst and looks like same exact bracket.
 
I'm of no help from experience, but John Cope from Cope Racing Transmissions might have something if you strike out. He is a Mopar only shop and does a bit of Mopar diesel transmission as well. I think some from here have used him and his transmissions. Firepunk might of even had one of his valvebodies in their race truck years ago trying out his trans brake. He has a bunch of vids on YouTube as well, John at Cope Racing Transmissions is his channel.
 
Thanks for the advice. I’ve heard of the guy and products.

Looks like I can make this work with a little bending and such. Just couldn’t find any pics.

The tight 45° earls is a no go. It doesn’t neck down in the middle like a normal fitting. So no clearance gained.

I was able to chase my pan bolt hole threads with a 5/16-18 tap and save the threads luckily Looks like they were bowed up on by the last guy to drop the pan and bolts were barely catching.
 
regcanfan said:
I'm of no help from experience, but John Cope from Cope Racing Transmissions might have something if you strike out. He is a Mopar only shop and does a bit of Mopar diesel transmission as well. I think some from here have used him and his transmissions. Firepunk might of even had one of his valvebodies in their race truck years ago trying out his trans brake. He has a bunch of vids on YouTube as well, John at Cope Racing Transmissions is his channel.
Click to expand...


I enjoy his channel. Not many trans builders will show you how they build a valve body and their own personal tricks. The videos are tech heavy, which is exactly what I like.
Great guy to talk on the phone with. He’s loaded with mopar transmission knowledge.
 
Sounds like I should give it a watch. I really want to build my own transmission, but it’s a bit intimidating for sure.
 
I used the stock shift lever on the trans and just measured what distance from the pivot point the throw of the shift lever matched the distance the cable moved on each shift. Plug welded in the large hole in the shift lever and drilled a small hole to fit the little ball for the cable connection that comes with the kit at the correct distance from the pivot point.
 
Vincejax said:
I used the stock shift lever on the trans and just measured what distance from the pivot point the throw of the shift lever matched the distance the cable moved on each shift. Plug welded in the large hole in the shift lever and drilled a small hole to fit the little ball for the cable connection that comes with the kit at the correct distance from the pivot point.
Click to expand...

I like it. I noticed last night the difference in length of that lever vs the one B&M supplied. Factory one seemed like it would clear my fitting but not with the shorter throw lever. Makes the cable hit the fitting.

I’ve had to change focus to replacing my front pinion. Well mainly trying to find a 1 5/16” socket as I don’t own one. Might have to order online. Local tractor supply is a turd and they don’t restock shelves
 
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