Antifreeze mix

zstroken

zstroken

For $$$ your name here
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Sep 27, 2006
Messages
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What percentages are people running? 50/50 60/40? Additives?
 
Puller only. Issue is if you see the water wetter stuff they say best results with 100% water. I would like some of the rust inhibitors of the anti freeze, but also pick up the increased boiling point of antifreeze. I don't really need much freeze protection but the boiling over I don't want.
 
Keep in mind I have a filled block so I only run water through the head, I use distilled water and Napa Cool, Cooling System Treatment #4056, 16 oz’s (one bottle) to entire system. It blows by the radiator cap every hook and I fill it before every hook.


Check out this site, http://www.imcool.com/ some good information there

BBD
 
Concerned about the lower boiling point Jerrod?

Or are you a tree hugger and don't want to pollute the ground? :)
 
I figured it was cheaper for me and was better for the environment when I blow it up.
 
Ok, I wandered about that, so no concern for boiling over? I am having issues with freeze plugs in the head. It seems to be heat related, almost like the head is getting too hot. I used to see it if I had to make back to back runs with some time spooling the charger. Well last weekend the charger lit right off and it blew one out. Once I replace one, I use red loctite on one and no issue on that one. I have one more to blow before they have all been replaced. I didn't have this until changed heads. Wandering if possibly the holes are just slighlty larger on these, bad plugs, or?? I have trimmed the water pump, run a seperate auto tranny cooler. When the plug blows you can sit and see the fluid in the area around the freeze plug sizzling etc.
 
I ran 50/50 deionized water and antifreeze with water wetter. I think I will go with more water this time.
 
I looked at the evans waterless cooling, but when I checked it was expensive!
 
What kind of rpm are you running. Electric water pump???? or do you have a convetional The reason I ask is we had issues with boiling and heat before we went to a E pump also do you have a t stat in.
 
I have a trimmed stock pump. I probably turn 4100 on the loose tracks, 36-3700 or so on tight ones, shifting at 4500.
I run a stat and have drilled (3) 3/16" hole in the tstat. I am debating to make them a little larger, or adding one or two.

Here is the history
A a year or so back I changed heads and started running a silver bullet
2nd or third hook on the truck at IRP it took me forever to get the charger lit with the tight convertor(45 seconds), well I blew a freeze plug out of the head. Put a new one in with red loctite.
At Scheid it took me forever to light the chager(1 minute plus)
Blew another plug out of the head, replaced with loctite.
Loosened the convertor and didn't blow any for awhile.
Started running an s400 and at a pull that was a 390' hook truck ran fine,
Had the pull off(tranny was over 210 degrees) in the pull off I blew the plug. I figured I was putting heat back in the engine from the tranny cooler.
Replaced that plug with a plug/loctite. Dropped to about a 25% antifreeze mix with water wetter. No issues in 3 or 4 more hooks, but made sure the truck is cool between hooks.
Replaced the tranny cooler this winter with a electric on under the truck.
Truck has been lighthing the chargers right off, 20 secs and it is lit.
Had a pull that was 4100 down the track and blew another plug.
Replaced and loctited it in.
I have one more plug yet to blow.

I have flexalite fans, the truck when it idles will come up to about 140 degrees by the gage. I let the truck idle and get the block warm probably 30 minutes before the hook. Then usually let the water cool. The block is warm when I start it and it usually gets to 5-10 minutes while waiting to hook.

My thoughts are
A. The water is too cold and the head is building heat faster than the freeze plug so it loosens.
B. The head is getting so hot that it is boiling over in the head.
C. Thermostat not opening fast enough and I build too much pressure in the head.

People have suggested radiator cap, but I don't think by the time it gets to the radiator cap that is a 15 psi cap, I could still have over that in the system.

I need to get a plate on the rear plug as I do not want to have to contend with that one blowing. I ahve thoguth about tapping the holes in the head and just putting pipe plugs in it.

Looking for suggestions. I don't think the head is lifting, I have not blown one of the large plugs yet.
 
zstroken said:
I have a trimmed stock pump. I probably turn 4100 on the loose tracks, 36-3700 or so on tight ones, shifting at 4500.
I run a stat and have drilled (3) 3/16" hole in the tstat. I am debating to make them a little larger, or adding one or two.

Here is the history
A a year or so back I changed heads and started running a silver bullet
2nd or third hook on the truck at IRP it took me forever to get the charger lit with the tight convertor(45 seconds), well I blew a freeze plug out of the head. Put a new one in with red loctite.
At Scheid it took me forever to light the chager(1 minute plus)
Blew another plug out of the head, replaced with loctite.
Loosened the convertor and didn't blow any for awhile.
Started running an s400 and at a pull that was a 390' hook truck ran fine,
Had the pull off(tranny was over 210 degrees) in the pull off I blew the plug. I figured I was putting heat back in the engine from the tranny cooler.
Replaced that plug with a plug/loctite. Dropped to about a 25% antifreeze mix with water wetter. No issues in 3 or 4 more hooks, but made sure the truck is cool between hooks.
Replaced the tranny cooler this winter with a electric on under the truck.
Truck has been lighthing the chargers right off, 20 secs and it is lit.
Had a pull that was 4100 down the track and blew another plug.
Replaced and loctited it in.
I have one more plug yet to blow.

I have flexalite fans, the truck when it idles will come up to about 140 degrees by the gage. I let the truck idle and get the block warm probably 30 minutes before the hook. Then usually let the water cool. The block is warm when I start it and it usually gets to 5-10 minutes while waiting to hook.

My thoughts are
A. The water is too cold and the head is building heat faster than the freeze plug so it loosens.
B. The head is getting so hot that it is boiling over in the head.
C. Thermostat not opening fast enough and I build too much pressure in the head.

People have suggested radiator cap, but I don't think by the time it gets to the radiator cap that is a 15 psi cap, I could still have over that in the system.

I need to get a plate on the rear plug as I do not want to have to contend with that one blowing. I ahve thoguth about tapping the holes in the head and just putting pipe plugs in it.

Looking for suggestions. I don't think the head is lifting, I have not blown one of the large plugs yet.
Click to expand...

We use to use the blow off valve system on our trucks due to the head pressure set at 45psi it came off of the back of motor by the fire wall it worked great put the e pump on no problems and no blow off. If you wan't if I still have it I can take a picture of it for you or just send it to you. Let me know. John
 
I would be interested in the kit. Do you still have it? PM me a price. Is this the EEP kit? I figured it was a kit for saving the big freeze plugs. I am just curious if I am heating the coolant up faster than the Tstat can open? Or actually boiling off the head.
 
zstroken said:
I would be interested in the kit. Do you still have it? PM me a price. Is this the EEP kit? I figured it was a kit for saving the big freeze plugs. I am just curious if I am heating the coolant up faster than the Tstat can open? Or actually boiling off the head.
Click to expand...

You could try a t stat from Haisley or cut the center out of yours
 
I have modded my tstat like van had mentioned.
I have drilled (3) 3/16" holes in it. I am thinking of drilling a few more in it.

DO you have the relief kit?
 
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