Anyone use PRW Flexplate?

They are junk from my experience with them. Most of the time they don't center true on the crank so they end up wobbling and cracking.
 
This was my concern, centering on the crank. What a good flexplate that's not billet?
 
For that price range, you're better off with a stiffener. I've never run one and always figured the inconsistency of my welding could throw off the balance, but I could be wrong.

Billet, ARP fasteners, red Loctite. Be done with it!
 
I had a buddy run 10's on a Ebay cheapo flexplate. I don't know what brand they were but he never had an issue with them.
 
Stiffener?

No sense in spending extra money when I'm not running big power. This setup is for a 3,500 pound truck.
 
ive used one worked perfectly and is still going strong after 30k miles of abuse
 
Stiffener?

No sense in spending extra money when I'm not running big power. This setup is for a 3,500 pound truck.

Cutting the center out of another flexplate and welding it to yours, doubling up the center where they crack. Use to be referred to ass a laminate flexplate. Back in the day most of the fast trucks did this before the aftermarket plates were common. You have to check your converter endplay when doing this.
 
A few of them have had some runout issues. You could buy one and check it.
 
All of these cheap gold flex plates hold power great, but unless you know what to check while installing them, I wouldn't recommend it. My transmission shop has found various issues with the cheap flexplates, the most common being them stamped too deep -- the outer face of the flexplate can end up too close to the converter, resulting in pump/converter issues. I'd recommend a sun coast or goerend flex plate.
 
Cutting the center out of another flexplate and welding it to yours, doubling up the center where they crack. Use to be referred to ass a laminate flexplate. Back in the day most of the fast trucks did this before the aftermarket plates were common. You have to check your converter endplay when doing this.

This^^^ 7430lb 12.49 1/4 3500 in my sig has used one of these for the past 9 years without any issues. Once upon a time someone offered a spacer you could install between the engine adapter plate and the trans bell housing to resolve lost converter endplay, mine never needed it.
 
All of these cheap gold flex plates hold power great, but unless you know what to check while installing them, I wouldn't recommend it. My transmission shop has found various issues with the cheap flexplates, the most common being them stamped too deep -- the outer face of the flexplate can end up too close to the converter, resulting in pump/converter issues. I'd recommend a sun coast or goerend flex plate.

This^^^ 7430lb 12.49 1/4 3500 in my sig has used one of these for the past 9 years without any issues. Once upon a time someone offered a spacer you could install between the engine adapter plate and the trans bell housing to resolve lost converter endplay, mine never needed it.

I bought one just like it from PATC several years ago. I did need the spacer that I also got from PATC. No problems with it since.
 
I've got 1000 miles on my cheap eBay flexplate without issue so far. You have to be sure to torque the convertor boots evenly though or the flexplate won't be true.
 
All of these cheap gold flex plates hold power great, but unless you know what to check while installing them, I wouldn't recommend it. My transmission shop has found various issues with the cheap flexplates, the most common being them stamped too deep -- the outer face of the flexplate can end up too close to the converter, resulting in pump/converter issues. I'd recommend a sun coast or goerend flex plate.

Seems the biggest is the fingers hold tight on the crank and align correctly (no slop)
With the transmission bolted up push the converter back against the trans and make sure there's at least 1/8 between the mounting pad of the converter and the flex plate. Of course you can do it with a straight edge.

Would like something sub 225-200.
 
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