ARP torque specs

duke1n

duke1n

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Apr 24, 2006
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ARP specs says 96ft lbs with their lube or 122 with 30wt. Those specs also say that those are based on 75% of the fastener yield strength. What are folks going to?
 
If you are referring to the specs that they give with the package, discard them. They are generic specs for most 12mm fasteners. ARP themselves recommends around 125 ft lbs for the cummins application with their lube
 
jambbii said:
Mine is very similar except I only do the mid 90 once.
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That's to make sure that I didn't miss any and screw up the sequence. Of course, on a Ford taht wouldn't be a problem with only 10 fasteners per side. LOL

brandon.
 
joefarmer said:
That's to make sure that I didn't miss any and screw up the sequence. Of course, on a Ford taht wouldn't be a problem with only 10 fasteners per side. LOL

brandon.
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Low blow to the groin :hehe: :hehe:

Brandon, when you do the final torque, do you go over and over the studs until the TQ wrench just clicks and nothing moves, or just give it a two click once over?
 
I like to torque with one smooth motion until it clicks, then double check it using the same motion with a second click and move to the next one. I also re-torque (remove nut, re-lube, progressive torque) just after driving at operating temp. The nuts typically go 1/8th turn more than if the truck was cool.

brandon.
 
I was going to ask on the re-torque if people are just putting a wrench on them or taking them off and relubing. Brandon, if you are torquing warm then what do you believe the effective cold torque setting is when it's said and done? Thx
 
joefarmer said:
I like to torque with one smooth motion until it clicks, then double check it using the same motion with a second click and move to the next one. I also re-torque (remove nut, re-lube, progressive torque) just after driving at operating temp. The nuts typically go 1/8th turn more than if the truck was cool.

brandon.
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That is right! If you just back off and retorque you may not be as tight as you were. The moly and the washer really make things slip.
 
duke1n said:
I was going to ask on the re-torque if people are just putting a wrench on them or taking them off and relubing. Brandon, if you are torquing warm then what do you believe the effective cold torque setting is when it's said and done? Thx
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I don't re-torque cold or recommend cold re-torque. Torque to the 55-77-96-96-122 when its assembled, keep it under 10psi and 2000 rpm for 3 heat cycles, then re-torque while its warmed up. It's probably a bit anal, but I've used it for all the trucks that I've put together. None have come back leaking.

brnaodn.
 
I did not. Cleaned out the holes and they went to the bottom easy. Just lightly snugged them.

On re-torque... assuming that folks just get the lash close if a little loose and then go for the exact setting once everything is seated and they are done yanking rockers?
 
Vacuum, bottom tap, yes. Lash I set to the .010 and .020 on the initial and .010 and .020 after the final re-torque.

brnaodn.
 
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