beefed up drive train???

S

smokeisfun

still learnin
Joined
Oct 14, 2007
Messages
230
hey guys, im pulling for the first time here sunday, i have whats in my sig plus now homemade traction bars, drive line shields, and axle blocks...

im just really nervouse about tearing some thing out, i know thats part of the game, but do you guys that pull have beefed up drive line and rearends, or stock, my trans just has a billet input, other than that thats all..but one thing is that i dont have a transfercase that will multiply my torque.

do you all ever hear of anybody tearing the drivetrain up???
 
seen some people roll the pumkin around the axle tubes... OEM is pressed and spot welded.

set your pinion angle downwards 7-10* that way it will be darn near staright when under a load and less likely to break.

only thing is is axle shafts start to got about 700-800hp range on a tight track

run first gear dotn knwo what gears or tires you have.

also 30" hitch too ;)
 
7-10*!!!??? Thats just asking for a u-joint to break. If the rear suspension wasn't blocked up it maybe ok, but with it blocked up and traction bars on, just leave the pinion angle stock.
 
kino_fab said:
7-10*!!!??? Thats just asking for a u-joint to break. If the rear suspension wasn't blocked up it maybe ok, but with it blocked up and traction bars on, just leave the pinion angle stock.
Click to expand...

yep 7-10* DOWN

you mean to tell me with blocks and traction bars the axle doesnt twist??!!! theres axle twist even in a solid suspension setup 0-2*

last time i check leaf sring will still go striaght not to mention the poly/ruber bushing in the front eye of the spring

theres alot of "slack" still in the suspension

i have t/b on mine just power brakeign i can get ~5* of pinion upward rotation. and no my t/bs are not bending.

iirc 1410 u-joint can handle up to 30* of miss alingment at full power before it binds.

the principle in setting the down ward pinon angle is once power is aplied and becomes loaded the the u-joint is ic closer to 0* mis alignment. (strongest point) if it was 0* static and you had 10* of rotation from static to loaded now you are 10* mis-aligned
 
I don't see how you are getting that much twist with bars and blocks. Factory pinion angles are normaly at 2* down. Yes there is some twist even with barred and blocked suspension, but not 7*+. A friend of mine tried your idea last year after twisting the spring perches off the axle tubes. He had them re welded at about 5* and he twisted u-joints and broke yolks every 2 or 3 runs. He put it back at 2* this winter and has not had a problem yet.
 
hmm.. i think i am goign to pick up a angle guage

not doubt in you.. just want more presicie info
 
How are you guaging the rearend going down the track anyways? or simulating?
 
other than that, the chances of breaking the output shaft of the trans is slim, thats my main concern, next would be shelling the rearend spiders
 
kino_fab said:
How are you guaging the rearend going down the track anyways? or simulating?
Click to expand...

useing the same principle that aply in drag racing of a static suspension to a loaded suspension..

best way would be get a little rod and plate with a zip tie. mark static postion then while the suspenion is moving the palte wil move the zip tie to the max movement of what ever its attatched too.

say bolt a rod to the u-joint sheild run it up wards and a plate and hole. as the axle rotatesd upward you can caculate degrees
a" of travel on b radius = c degrees of rotation.

another way would be mount a camera to watch the suspension
 
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