Billet Steel Cam in 12v

TruckYou

TruckYou

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I came across a good deal on a new steel 188/220 Hamilton. Before purchasing, I wantes to touch base on the forum and ask

Can I install a steel cam in a 12v without pulling the whole damn thing apart? Cam Bushings?

A buddy was telling me to run steel cam the bushings have to be replaced? But that with a cast can you do not?

Please, school me

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Traditionally steel cams are not run on a the cast block, cam bearings are installed for the steel cam to ride on. This is because steel is not porous like cast and steel cams are "known" to eat into the cast block's cam supporting surfaces.

That said, a few guys have had luck, myself included, running steel cam without special bearings or modifications on a "race-only" lowish mileage truck when run in conjunction with a high zinc oil or specialty additive. So far, I've had zero issues with my Junker Drag Truck's steel Hamilton 188/220 cam, Hamilton 185# dual valve springs, PDD 7/16 pushrods, and PDD 15w-40 "high zinc" engine oil.

If you're looking at it for a street truck, you probably should pass.
 
Does the same go for the common rail truck?

I ask because my friend has a cast cam that he's willing to trade for the billet if it's a situation where the common rails can run them, and the 12v cannot

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Same deal either engine, supposed to have bearings. The common rail could get away easier with the cast cam being it doesn't have the stress of turning the p-pump.
 
I'm pretty much doing the same style build as you. IV got a 1st gen reg cab, that I'm dropping a 95 p pump engine into. Something we can take to the drag strip but street able enough to drive to the parts store, or across town to a car show or truck pull. IV owned the truck for 2 years and put 3k miles on it.

ARP studs, Hamilton #165 retainers and keepers, 7/16 extreme push rods, and compound turbos

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I know this has been asked before because I know of seen it before, but I'll ask for the sake of centralizing information

When putting a 188/220 in a 12v, what other components must be changed, or should be changed. Do the Tappets need to be changed? As I just purchased new pushrods (haven't received them yet) and I saw they also sold 12v rods intended for 24v tappets

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The 24v tappets are a larger diameter and an up grade. The push rod socket is a metric size so the need for conversion pushrods. I would defiantly change tappets with the cam change personally. Also check piston to valve clearance, that cam has been known to be a tight fit on stock pistons if it's not degreed and everything perfect.
 
So I assume my brand new Pushrods will need to be replaced to the 12v/24v style rods?

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That's what I have, I've read of people running the standard push tubes with no issues but that would bug me.
 
Alright,. Well I'll get ahold of DAP and see if they are willing to swap out my new Pushrods for the set intended to run with 24v Tappets, I'll gets a set of 24v Tappets ordered , and probably replace the Tappets cover er gasket while I'm there huh?

Prob should get some assembly lube, and a zinc additive break in oil too huh? A cam Retainer is probably essential too, right?

What's the different between the bolt on Cam Retainers, and a Thrust retainer?

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So, billet cams arnt recommended without cam bushings... So how difficult are cam bushings to install? Is it possible to do without pulling the engine apart? My engines on the stand right now, out of the truck

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No, it will need disassembled and line bored for the bushings.. $$$.$$
 
I was quoted $800 for cam bearing installation on a block we were building, that's part of the reason why my truck doesn't have cam bearings with the steel cam.

If you want to run the factory lift pump, you'll need to keep the factory lift pump lobe in-tact which means 24v tappets approx 1.4" diameter are the largest you can run and still clear the lift pump lobe. If you are not going to run the factory lift pump, then the lift pump lobe can be ground off/removed and you can run the larger 1.5" diameter common rail tappets. Both the 24v and CR tappets have the same diameter socket for the pushrod.
 
Good info Big Blue. I will not be running the factory style lift pump. I have an unsettling feeling about the steel cam, I was really hoping flocks of people would come pouring in, saying they all run billet cams without issue. My build , for the first year of the trucks life, is a street/strip truck, get all the bugs worked out and slowly work into spending weekends at the track.

Last night I did some window shopping on XDP website and for a 188/220 cast, 1.45 Hamilton Tappets, retainer, and zinc break in oil, I'm looking at $775 including there 10% off diesel10 promo code, with free shipping. Prob just going to order everything brand new and get exactly what I need

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