Build questions

wwm

wwm

TO MANY TRUCKS
Joined
Mar 22, 2009
Messages
801
Hey guys I am about to start my biuld to about 700hp, im fixing to order my firepunk trans, and then start the biuld after the bank account builds back up. I was just reading up on some install on injectors and head studs and saw basically everything is pulled when doing these installs.

My question is: Is it easier just to install your valve spring, head studs, push rods, and injectors all at the same time?

Also what boost levels will the stock studs hold? or is it better just to do the stud to be on the safe side?

How long does it take to install head studs?
 
Get studs and do it all at once.
What charger are you looking at?
 
I'm going to do a 63mm then go to twin when I do 150-180 hp nozzles.

Twin set will be 63/78
 
Start with studs, springs, lift pump, cp3 (dual stockers are great), then injectors, and charger(s). Defiantly get EFI.
 
What studs are needed for twins? Also are push rods needed?
 
My personal favorite is ARP 625's. going twins doesn't mean you need a special type of studs tho. But the 625's are top of the line. The 425's are decent but may or may not hold up to extreme use.
I'm not a fan of using stiffer push rods.
 
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My arp-2000's(425's) have held 72 psi or so for 8k miles without an issue. I torqued them to 135ft-lbs. I am also not a fan of stiffer push rods. I've been running my stickers without an issue with Hamilton 110lb springs. I figure if something goes bad, maybe the stock pushed will absorb the blow. Pushrod would be about the cheapest thing to replace in the engine.
 
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What needs to be removed on the head for injectors, I know the rail, tubes and intake. But do the rocker arms and rocker panels need to come out as well
 
No need to remove rail. Just lines, tubes, intake horn, valve cover, rocker box and exhaust rocker. For studs you remove the same minus the lines, tubes and intake horn.
 
better to do it all at once you dont want to take off and on the fuel lines to many times.625 head studs will take round 4 1/2 hours.you can get 700hp+ with just a single charger a lot cheaper than with twins and possibly like the single better.with fuel support 150 hp injectors a 66-74- 14 charger 700 hp is easy to do.
 
No other damage that I could tell. I wasn't going to replace them. Just figured while i was in there doing springs, why not.
 
I bent two push rods the other day... along with breaking the crank into thirds and shattering a main cap. So should I go back with stock push rods so if something catastrophic like this happens again I wont ruin a rocker arm, piston and possibly a connecting rod? Although I'm going with worked 12v rods. I should be around 900 to the ground with my new setup. I was running a 66 over 80 when everything went to hell
 
The 63 will be awesome with a S478, for 700 though you can do a S475. You can also get the 150-180s now and just run a fuel limited tune, that's what's awesome about EFI. No need to do your injectors in stages anymore, get the big ones for your end goal and simply cut back some fuel till you get the air. Sounds like a fun build.

Oh and with good tuning you can get 700 out of 90s, I think with the set up you have planned will be more in the 800+ range pretty easy. Of course bigger is always better, unless its your cell mate.
 
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