Cutting a groove into a steel plate ~or~ How to seal two flat steel plates
- Thread starter Begle1
- Start date
boom or make them out of 1 piece.
As for your problem, depending on how thick the two plates are even once machine flat they will likely warp again. I would probably make a graphite gasket or use a high temp silicone o-ring to seal them off.
Damit how do I show a pic with out photobucket
As for your problem, depending on how thick the two plates are even once machine flat they will likely warp again. I would probably make a graphite gasket or use a high temp silicone o-ring to seal them off.
Damit how do I show a pic with out photobucket
Begle1
Active member
So here's what I got, two half-inch thick plates of steel.
One bolts to the manifold.
One bolts to the turbo.
Then they bolt together.
I had home-made tin gaskets in there with plenty of copper goop, and I think they were sealing good enough, until the top two bolts holding the adapter plate together started backing off. At one point there was like an 1/8" gap between my adapter plates. I don't think it ever sealed back up after tightening. I think I'll need to use some thread locker or lock washer in there next time.
But also, the adapter bolted to the turbo is super pitted, much more than I remember. So I think I'll need to get some new plates made for next time.
Any machinists out there want to make me new plates? These were the prototype, I know how to make them better next time.
Or if anybody has a better idea I'm all ears.
I also bought an 1/8" thick piece of copper plate to use as a gasket in between the two plates, instead of my tin gasket. I'll see how it works. (So far, I think I should've bought a 1/16" thick piece of copper.)
I also have no idea how I was going to groove things. Not enough space in between bolts to do that, wouldn't have worked, unless I put the groove way around the outside.
One bolts to the manifold.
One bolts to the turbo.
Then they bolt together.
I had home-made tin gaskets in there with plenty of copper goop, and I think they were sealing good enough, until the top two bolts holding the adapter plate together started backing off. At one point there was like an 1/8" gap between my adapter plates. I don't think it ever sealed back up after tightening. I think I'll need to use some thread locker or lock washer in there next time.
But also, the adapter bolted to the turbo is super pitted, much more than I remember. So I think I'll need to get some new plates made for next time.
Any machinists out there want to make me new plates? These were the prototype, I know how to make them better next time.
Or if anybody has a better idea I'm all ears.
I also bought an 1/8" thick piece of copper plate to use as a gasket in between the two plates, instead of my tin gasket. I'll see how it works. (So far, I think I should've bought a 1/16" thick piece of copper.)
I also have no idea how I was going to groove things. Not enough space in between bolts to do that, wouldn't have worked, unless I put the groove way around the outside.
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ComnRailPwr
New member
Is this what you need CustomFabShop.com | Custom Automotive Fabrication
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zfaylor
Comp Diesel Sponsor
glue sand paper to a piece of glass. That is about as flat as you can get something at home with limited tools. As mentioned earlier as well use very little silicon. Too much creates a rubbery layer. Youre trying to fill pores, voids and scratches. Relying on it to fill gaps in a hot pressurized environment is no bueno.
Begle1
Active member
Well where the heck did this come from? Looks like what I want. Has anybody used one before?
I'm going t4i turbo to t4 manifold, would have to think a little to see if that'd make a difference.
So is the goal to not use enough silicone for it to squirt out when tightened up? I think my pitting is to the point that there's no way sand paper is going to fix it.
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