DOM 6 point cage

stock600 said:
Most of the cracks in the long dragsters can be prevented by tranporting them correctly in the trailers, straping them correctly and using bags in the right spots takes the bounce out of them during transport
Click to expand...

I talked to a couple of friends with dragsters over the weekend, one of whom had just bought a dragster from another friend (who I am pretty sure never used a "chassis saver" under it when transporting). That chassis had lots of cracks adjacent to welds.

If I were going for the ultimate in protection I would go for a 4130 cage but in the thickness range of a mild steel cage! The increase in yield and ultimate strength over the mild steel would be worth it for me. On my chassis I am finishing up now, I went with bigger &/or thicker bars than the SFI spec in a few areas I felt needed to be stronger &/or stiffer.
 
Sangor

DOM may be certified, but as a chassis inspector for NHRA when I put my meter on the tubing, I'll know right away what material it is. DOM, MS or CM. Just be sure that the hoop, rear braces and door bar ties into the frame. Stock frames are not as wide as the body. Out riggers can come off the frame to get the bars out to the edges of the body and then tie into them. Because you have a full frame in a truck, it is mandatory it ties to the frame.
 
Quoted by Michael

{If I were going for the ultimate in protection I would go for a 4130 cage but in the thickness range of a mild steel cage! The increase in yield and ultimate strength over the mild steel would be worth it for me. On my chassis I am finishing up now, I went with bigger &/or thicker bars than the SFI spec in a few areas I felt needed to be stronger &/or stiffer.[/QUOTE]}





Ya not a bad idea to add a touch of weight for the strength you get from the next size CM tubing. I just got back a 74 datsun Z that I built back in like 1995 and ran for a couple seasons and sold. Ive got it all cut apart and redoing the cage and backhalf. I had done a .134" 1 5/8 full 10 pt cage in it back then but now redoing it all in CM, I did the rear half identical to the SC and TD cars that we build, it's looking really cool in a narrow door car. 26" wide fab housing, anti roll, x- link, etc..... hopefully it will drive like a dream.
 
Last edited:
Subman631 said:
You must have worked on a pipeline, cuz they are all ass hole prima-dona's there. :D
Click to expand...

Pipe is for fitters, us boilermakers weld tube. If you've seen some of the holes I've worked in, you'd know I'm not primadonna.
I was just stating what ASME procedures are.

But for somethkng of this application, I'd run DOM tubing myself.
 
Guys what size hole should I drill going through the body with 1.75 DOM?


Should I go bigger diameter for flex of the body to the frame?
 
Man I wish I could get away with NHRA cage specs in my truck... I want to be able to desert race with it one day, so it will need to meet SCORE specs and I think it requires 2-inch .120 wall DOM tubing and much more than a 6 point cage... I am glad that it will be safe should I ever put the truck on its lid though!!!

I really worry about some of the cages that are NHRA legal that I see out on the track in some of our big heavy diesel trucks. I wonder if they would hold up to a serious wreck at speed???
 
Sanger said:
Guys what size hole should I drill going through the body with 1.75 DOM?


Should I go bigger diameter for flex of the body to the frame?
Click to expand...


How much does the body move comparded to the frame?
 
Chris Tobin said:
Man I wish I could get away with NHRA cage specs in my truck... I want to be able to desert race with it one day, so it will need to meet SCORE specs and I think it requires 2-inch .120 wall DOM tubing and much more than a 6 point cage... I am glad that it will be safe should I ever put the truck on its lid though!!!

I really worry about some of the cages that are NHRA legal that I see out on the track in some of our big heavy diesel trucks. I wonder if they would hold up to a serious wreck at speed???
Click to expand...

you're gonna be putting in quite a bit more tubing to be SCORE legal.


Sanger said:
How much does the body move comparded to the frame?
Click to expand...

on the cages that i have worked on the cage is always attached hard to the body with plates. not sure how most do it on here though for street trucks.

Garrett
 
SSpeeDEMONSS said:
...on the cages that i have worked on the cage is always attached hard to the body with plates. not sure how most do it on here though for street trucks.

Garrett
Click to expand...

On vehicles with true frames (ie pickup trucks) you are required to weld right to the frame, so it ends up with outriggers on the A piller supports and the main hoop, the angle bars off the main hoop cross bar can go straight to the frame as can the rear down bars. Unibody is much easier just a 6"X6"X.125" plate for each of the tie-ins.
 
Can you have the frame mount come off the frame and go through the floor and then have the cage inside the cab slide over the tube that comes off the frame and then weld plates to the bottom tube and the top tube and bolt it together sandwiching the cab floor between the two so myou could still unbolt the cage from the frame stubs to remove the cab if needed? Not sure if I am being clear on what I am asking.
 
dvst8r said:
On vehicles with true frames (ie pickup trucks) you are required to weld right to the frame, so it ends up with outriggers on the A piller supports and the main hoop, the angle bars off the main hoop cross bar can go straight to the frame as can the rear down bars. Unibody is much easier just a 6"X6"X.125" plate for each of the tie-ins.
Click to expand...

Oh, I know that. I have only worked on trucks and SUVs so the cages went to the frame. Though where the tubes went through the body the cage was welded to the body as well.

Garrett

probably getting paid at work to post this from my bionic
 
JOESHTRDDSL said:
Can you have the frame mount come off the frame and go through the floor and then have the cage inside the cab slide over the tube that comes off the frame and then weld plates to the bottom tube and the top tube and bolt it together sandwiching the cab floor between the two so myou could still unbolt the cage from the frame stubs to remove the cab if needed? Not sure if I am being clear on what I am asking.
Click to expand...

I have seen people do this and get away with it, but it does not appear to conform to the rules. That said, the NHRA cert technicians have a separate manual that has more details in it that MAY cover this area.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top