Door hinge replacement..

bateman

bateman

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Feb 22, 2019
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Just wanted to do a quick write up on this fix. If your door hinges are shot and the door sags 2 inches when you pull the handle SELL YOUR TRUCK AND BUY A NEW ONE.

Boy this sht sucked! I didn’t have anyone to hand me beer much less hold the door. The bolt for each hinge that comes from inside the cab was the easiest part. Lining the doors up afterwards on a truck that’s completely crooked, well that sucked too. When I unbolted the upper hinge from the door the nut plate fell loose inside the door. Tack welds were broken. That made it even more fun. So fair warning, if you are working alone you gonna need both hands a knee cap, some rope and you gotta use your teeth.

Door shuts so easy and quiet now I bet it’s half way through this set of hinges already from me testing it out lol. I don’t know why I continue to bust my knuckles on this raggedy old Dodge, but I still like it for some reason.
 

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LOL I think I found the issue. Either you're in Australia or you parked your truck upside down in the first pic.
 
I had to pull the dash to do mine. Good job.

Sent from my motorola one action using Tapatalk
 
Haha stupid pics.

Biggy, my hands and wrists are torn to ****. It was not fun.
 
Pic test for the hell of it..
 

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Idk what makes them right side up or Australia style. If anyone knows the secret let me in on it lol
 
Not good news, just ordered my hinges from LMC truck last night...randomly found this post. Now I am not looking forward to them coming in.

What should I look out for when doing this? A buddy to help for sure.
 
Patience. I used beer lol. It’s honestly more frustrating than anything. Trying to not drop the bolt that goes from the inside out is the biggest pain. Driver side is hardest. Remove the e brake pedal assembly to make room. Support the door and remove the hinge to door bolts first. Hopefully your nut plates in the door are still secured with spot welds.

Passenger side you don’t need to remove anything really. I removed the glove compartment door and of course the kick panel. just had to squeeze my arms in there to get that upper inner bolt. 10” extension with a universal then a deep well socket was a good fit to break it loose.

Don’t let it whoop ya! Any thing I might be able to help with just shoot me a message.
 
I will let you know in a week how many objects I broke in the shop after frustration. I should have them before the weekend.
 
I was changing doors anyhow when I did mine. I put 99 doors on a 94. still sucked with the one or two bolts in from the inside.
 
Ive done the pins on mine a bunch of times. what gets me is theres a bunch of manufacturers of kits that will sell you the pins and bushings and none of them fit properly on mine. bushings too large to press in, pins too small for the bushings that did fit.
Tried dorman and a few ebay specials over the years. I always end up with slop in the pins and a stack of washers under the lower hinge.

When you did the hinges did you use new pins and bushings, and if so do you remember where you got the pins and bushings from?
did you need to press the bushings into the hinge?

One more reason I hate the dodge chassis.
 
Lmc truck sells everything from just pins and bushings to turn key new hinges. I bought the complete new hinge package with new bolts etc...
 
I did complete upper and lower Mopar hinges. The problem for me was not just the hinges. It was the roller for the cam. It is not replaceable without a lot of work and sourcing your own parts. I just spent the $250 for all new after figuring the time I’d have invested in searching the web for what size this and that then the actual labor taking probably as much time as replacement. I’d do it the same way if I had to again.
 
There is a write up on drilling your holes larger (possibly ovaled anyhow) and using larger pins and bushings. I can find it if you want.
 
its funny those kits sold as stock replacements for my truck came with oversized bushings and not a word about drilling out the holes for them.
Im leery of making permanent changes unless I cant find any other bushing/pin combos that will fit. Maybe Im at that point now?
Maybe modding the hinges and bushings for grease zerks is the way to keep them from needing such frequent replacement.

EDIT: I got my truck used back in 2001 and looking at videos of other trucks I think the previous owner drilled this thing out for a bushing. Not the right size hole for sure.
 
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Got mine done over the weekend. Drivers side was a pain but found the passenger side worse. For some reason working from an angle through the area where the glove box was bothered me. Plus I had more of an issue lighting up the door on the passenger side. I think I spent more time adjusting the hinges then the time it took to take them off and put the new ones on. Your tips for what tools where spot on Bateman thanks!!
 
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