SixOhh
EPA unfriendly
- Joined
- Aug 4, 2008
- Messages
- 1,108
WHAT IS UP? long time no talk friends...
the ol lady's 2nd gen is in need of attention,
all door locks quit. tore apart the door switch, didnt like what i saw so i ordered a new one (start with the cheapest part right?) still no door locks.
upon trouble shooting i unplugged the 2 prong connector at the drivers side door actuator, forcing 12v to it and the PASSENGER door locks. then i reverse polarity and it unlocks... i don't understand why only the passenger side came to life.
so now for questions... do these door lock actuators have pass thru wiring? is the power passing thru a faulty drivers side actuator and making its way to the passenger side?
i left the actuator unplugged while i figure this out and the misses says the key is easier to turn the lock manually now. does any of this add up?
the fact that both door locks took a crap at the same time makes me wonder if im not getting power to either.
is there any certain wires at the door switch than i can check voltage ? or is there another component that i need to check before the door switch? i was reading about some module under the dash but i forgot what its called...
i just hate to order a 150 dollar drivers side actuator and still be up **** creek.
any suggestions son where to start with my Fluke would be much appreciated.
-Marcus
the ol lady's 2nd gen is in need of attention,
all door locks quit. tore apart the door switch, didnt like what i saw so i ordered a new one (start with the cheapest part right?) still no door locks.
upon trouble shooting i unplugged the 2 prong connector at the drivers side door actuator, forcing 12v to it and the PASSENGER door locks. then i reverse polarity and it unlocks... i don't understand why only the passenger side came to life.
so now for questions... do these door lock actuators have pass thru wiring? is the power passing thru a faulty drivers side actuator and making its way to the passenger side?
i left the actuator unplugged while i figure this out and the misses says the key is easier to turn the lock manually now. does any of this add up?
the fact that both door locks took a crap at the same time makes me wonder if im not getting power to either.
is there any certain wires at the door switch than i can check voltage ? or is there another component that i need to check before the door switch? i was reading about some module under the dash but i forgot what its called...
i just hate to order a 150 dollar drivers side actuator and still be up **** creek.
any suggestions son where to start with my Fluke would be much appreciated.
-Marcus