UNBROKEN
Ezekiel 25:17
First off...this is my first attempt at a "how to" article...so bear with me if I ramble a bit.
Second...I am NOT a diesel tech. This is just how I did it and what worked for me...with some input from other members of this site.
Thanks to those who offered guidance to me....I'll pass that on now.
O.K. here I go.........
#1...this is an electrical part...I have to advise to disconnect both batteries...no point in taking a chance with your electrical system.
#2...get one of these:
It's the worlds cheapest gear puller. Since most of us don't have access to the Ford puller...this will work...you just have to get creative with it.
Here's your target:
You can see the plug on the EGR...obviously, unplug that.
I also had to remove my boost gauge line.
I removed the plug that goes to the unused (in my truck) controller for the throttle plate thing. I just did this for easier access .
Remove the 2 screws from the ears on the bottom of the EGR valve.
Both mine were different...I don't know if thats the norm...but I made sure to put them back into the holes they came out of.
Now..rotate the EGR untill you can get the tabs on the puller onto the ears on the valve.
I had to use a pair of Channel Locks to do this.
Now put the puller in place...something like this:
Now is where I had to get creative. Since this is NOT the correct type of puller...you obviously do not tighten the center bolt...if you do that...you'll destroy the EGR and won't even get it out.
What I did was put a small prybar under the center of the puller and GENTLY pried it against the intake elbow. I put a folded up towel between the bar and the elbow for some cushion...you definetly don't want to break that elbow.
Anyway...I just put some pressure on it and it popped right out.
Nothing to it.
Now the nasty part.......here's what I found:
Gets kinda ugly in there huh?
Well...when you get it out...just go to town with a can or two of carb cleaner. I also used a small interior cleaning brush to get into the tight spots.
Once you get the crap out you can pull the valve itself out and clean the valve face and the seat. Actually, there are 2 valves and seats on one shaft....you'll see.
I guess the cleaning part is a no brainer...just clean till the black crap is gone.
After I got done...I had this left:
Once you have it looking like that...put it all back together.
Re-connect the batteries and you're done.
It takes about an hour to do.
Some things to note:
Be carefull...you don't wanna break this stuff....it's expensive....
There are 2 o-rings on the valve....be carefull not to nick or damage those.
You'll notice on the last pic...there is a gasket on the valve that seals it to the intake.....do not damage this. If you do...it won't seal right and hot, pressurized exhaust gasses will shoot out into your engine compartment.
Again..I am NOT a diesel tech...use this info for your own good and at your own risk.
Don't blame me if you break something.
Well...thats about it...I don't think I missed anything.
I hope I did'nt bore y'all too much.
Second...I am NOT a diesel tech. This is just how I did it and what worked for me...with some input from other members of this site.
Thanks to those who offered guidance to me....I'll pass that on now.
O.K. here I go.........
#1...this is an electrical part...I have to advise to disconnect both batteries...no point in taking a chance with your electrical system.
#2...get one of these:
It's the worlds cheapest gear puller. Since most of us don't have access to the Ford puller...this will work...you just have to get creative with it.
Here's your target:
You can see the plug on the EGR...obviously, unplug that.
I also had to remove my boost gauge line.
I removed the plug that goes to the unused (in my truck) controller for the throttle plate thing. I just did this for easier access .
Remove the 2 screws from the ears on the bottom of the EGR valve.
Both mine were different...I don't know if thats the norm...but I made sure to put them back into the holes they came out of.
Now..rotate the EGR untill you can get the tabs on the puller onto the ears on the valve.
I had to use a pair of Channel Locks to do this.
Now put the puller in place...something like this:
Now is where I had to get creative. Since this is NOT the correct type of puller...you obviously do not tighten the center bolt...if you do that...you'll destroy the EGR and won't even get it out.
What I did was put a small prybar under the center of the puller and GENTLY pried it against the intake elbow. I put a folded up towel between the bar and the elbow for some cushion...you definetly don't want to break that elbow.
Anyway...I just put some pressure on it and it popped right out.
Nothing to it.
Now the nasty part.......here's what I found:
Gets kinda ugly in there huh?
Well...when you get it out...just go to town with a can or two of carb cleaner. I also used a small interior cleaning brush to get into the tight spots.
Once you get the crap out you can pull the valve itself out and clean the valve face and the seat. Actually, there are 2 valves and seats on one shaft....you'll see.
I guess the cleaning part is a no brainer...just clean till the black crap is gone.
After I got done...I had this left:
Once you have it looking like that...put it all back together.
Re-connect the batteries and you're done.
It takes about an hour to do.
Some things to note:
Be carefull...you don't wanna break this stuff....it's expensive....
There are 2 o-rings on the valve....be carefull not to nick or damage those.
You'll notice on the last pic...there is a gasket on the valve that seals it to the intake.....do not damage this. If you do...it won't seal right and hot, pressurized exhaust gasses will shoot out into your engine compartment.
Again..I am NOT a diesel tech...use this info for your own good and at your own risk.
Don't blame me if you break something.
Well...thats about it...I don't think I missed anything.
I hope I did'nt bore y'all too much.
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