Engine install tips

jhastings

jhastings

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May 26, 2011
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Any engine install tips from those that have done it before? Using a cherry picker. Can I install clutch/bellhousing prior?

Have to remove #6 valve cover?




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jhastings said:
Any engine install tips from those that have done it before? Using a cherry picker. Can I install clutch/bellhousing prior?

Have to remove #6 valve cover?




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Ive installed my 12V with the bell housing and clutch hanging off the back. Didn't cause any issues or speed bumps. I'm pretty sure I kept the #6 valve cover off because i usually pull 12V's with the valve cover off.

Only issue i remember having was i took the passenger side motor mount off the block and set it in the frame mount. Dropped the motor in and then bolted it back to the block. Seemed easier that way at the time, it didnt fight as much and there was less leaning and twisting of the motor to get it in place.
 
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Well tried today and with oil pan on and #6 valve cover off I can't get it in. Does anyone take off the valve pedestal? Is the motor angle level or steep with the front high and back low?


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I took out the body mounts on pass side and loosened up the dr side ones just about all the way, jacked up pass side like 6" . installed the engine fully dressed with twin turbos , sounds like a lot but the extra room made a big diff
 
Undo the cab and core support mounts and lift the front up. Adds a lot of clearance to get in/out a fully dressed engine.
 
Guess I forgot to mention core support along with body mounts, I had the pass fender off also which make a ton of room. lol. Good call tate,
 
Thanks for the inputs. I ended up removing #5/6 valve covers and rocker assemblies and the lifting ring. Simply bolted the chain to on of the lifting ring bolts. Put motor in dead level no tilt and had lots of clearance. Clutch was on, but no bell housing. Would have lifted the cab but wasn't sure how with the fender


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