External gate stock manifold

montser633

New member
Basically I want to take my stock t3 manifold and make it a t4 gated manifold. My t3 flange is warped and leaking. Going to weld on a t4 flange. How are you guys external gating the manifolds? Are they cutting a hole by the flange like the steed speed? What about a riser pipe to gate can I get away with just exhaust pipe? Would like to get rid of my t3 to t4 gated adaptor. Also are you guys using a 99% nickel rods for welding?
 
I welded a jgs gate to a stock manifold about 6 years ago on a set of twins I built. I cut a hole at the center of the manifold with the divider in the middle and heated with a torch and just used a mig. It's still being used by a friend of mine and hasn't cracked or been a problem.
 
your preheat and post heat will be more critical than your filler wire, you cant cool that too slowly and definitely want it as even as possible. run it on the truck if you cant put it in an oven or woodstove. . if welding mild to cast, you dont want a lot of mixing in the puddle. ni99 is a good filler if using TIG.

give some extra heat right around the weld joint till it "sweats" if you can. that helps lift some of the shmeg out and ontop the weld in the form of slag rather than stay in and make pores when it pops.
 
your preheat and post heat will be more critical than your filler wire, you cant cool that too slowly and definitely want it as even as possible. run it on the truck if you cant put it in an oven or woodstove. . if welding mild to cast, you dont want a lot of mixing in the puddle. ni99 is a good filler if using TIG.



give some extra heat right around the weld joint till it "sweats" if you can. that helps lift some of the shmeg out and ontop the weld in the form of slag rather than stay in and make pores when it pops.


Have access to a stick and mig welder and a mapp gas hand held torch. So your saying filler is not as important as slow cooling. If I heat up the area with the torch and get it good and hot before welding. Can I heat up some sand and place the manifold in the sand for a slow cool?
 
I've welded a few with a mig to a cast manifold or turbine housing without any problems, beveled well and preheated and use a torch help it cool of slow. My turbo setup know has no hot pipe, just ex housing to housing mig welded together. It's been thrue 3 years of hard use with no cracks behind a 13mm pump being pushed hard.
 
no need to heat the sand unless its ice cold. woodstove is definitely the easiest slow cool.

another tip: wirebrush, dont grind or sand or flapwheel. cast soaks up the media and that will come out in your weld as pores.

you could also braze it with silver solder, silicon bronze, flux coated brazing rod, nickel rod. mig is my last choice but ive done it many times without issue. preheat and post heat are critical. if its clinking and tinking like a steam boiler, its cooling too fast and creating internal fissures that will become cracks. get the rosebud back on it asap and itll stop clinking.
 
My turbo setup know has no hot pipe, just ex housing to housing mig welded together. It's been thrue 3 years of hard use with no cracks behind a 13mm pump being pushed hard.

You have a link to that build or any pictures?

Sorry yo get off topic.
 
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What are you guys doing with the metal heater core lines with the gate on the manifold? I'm giving it another try since I have more time to mess with it. Seems I have to relocate them using rubber lines how did you it?


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