Fire Rings

B

bubba1

kwick canuck
Joined
Aug 8, 2006
Messages
262
to cut head ? to cut block ? or cut both surfaces ? which will give the best results? And not because MY WILLIE told me it works best.
 
Both the head and the block should be done for the best results. Because it gives you multiple sealing surfaces over just the head alone. 7-9 thou crush is all you need because the combustion heat will swell the ring and creat a even better seal. If you are going to use a copper gasket go out and by some wynns cooling system sealer, you will thank me later.
 
Iam actually going away from a copper set for leaking reasons but I will remember the wynns trick if I ever go back that rout
thank you:Cheer:
 
i have seen both and both work well i have just the head done and not one problem yet and its a daily driver and sled puller
 
so if one had to choose which would you prefer fire rings on the head or on the block? i can't afford both but rather be safe then sorry to atleast have them right?
 
I did the head last year and worked well, this year I decided to do both as my engine was out for a complete build.
 
I don't like the idea of doing just the head because when you install the head you don't know if the rings are perfectly centered $.02
 
Not a problem to center the grooves over the bores... if that's where you want them. ;)

Fire rings are OK for comp vehicles, but most are better off with O-rings in the head... they hold as much combustion pressure as a stock bottom end can take, withstand plenty of heat-cycling/daily driving, and don't require modified gaskets.
 
You can cut duel o-ring grooves. I have had good results with o-rings.
 
Question, is it really that benificial to fire ring or would my arp 625's do the trick to keep everything tight?
 
Shawn, go with O-Rings, and ARP 625's 14mm. Then Clamp them down hard.. a few good retorks,, you should be able to hit it with 120 - 130 no problem.. (as in boost)
 
I prefer to just cut them in the block for several reasons.

If you ever do have any troubles and the head has to come off it will save you the money of having to have the grovves recut in the head as youll have a flat head deck surface.

It is easier to install as they lay in the groove in the block

the block is less prone to warping than the head

machining tolerances. by doing the block and head that is one more tolerance that must be held as the grooves must line up perfectly and any misalignment will not allow the rings to seat correctly.

one groove in the block with 12mm 625's has worked extremely well for us.
 
I have been told several times not to glue the rings in the head, just lay the gasket on the block and then lay the rings inside the gasket, set the head down on top and they will center themselves. I would think the reason for this is that just the thickness of the glue could be a few thousandths and could cause improper seating. Mine are cut in the head and I was running a .020 over 12V gasket, I just had them recut and i am switching to an MLS with firerings. I had trouble with the water jackets sealing up with the 12V gasket. I will let you know how the MLS does, Haisley's said it was the way to go on a CR. Oh ya, my grooves are round cut not square.
 
cumminsX said:
I have been told several times not to glue the rings in the head, just lay the gasket on the block and then lay the rings inside the gasket, set the head down on top and they will center themselves. I would think the reason for this is that just the thickness of the glue could be a few thousandths and could cause improper seating. Mine are cut in the head and I was running a .020 over 12V gasket, I just had them recut and i am switching to an MLS with firerings. I had trouble with the water jackets sealing up with the 12V gasket. I will let you know how the MLS does, Haisley's said it was the way to go on a CR. Oh ya, my grooves are round cut not square.
Click to expand...

You can get a modified 12V gasket to fit your CR head just fine....

Contact "Snedge" (Jeff) at Mumau diesel He has them
724-354-3994
 
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