Flexplate runout

RollCoal9000

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Feb 25, 2019
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Alright, after failing to rebuild my trans had a shop fo it. Haven't had any problems besides failing solenoids (dont buy them at NAPA ?) BUT truck shakes a bit at idle and theres a good vibration between 1600-1900 rpm, worst at 1900. Most noticeable with the converter locked because it's hard to get a good load on it with it unlocked, but its not related to lockup.

Looking in the inspection cover with it running it has a bit of run out, and seems to be in rhythm with the vibration.

It has the gold HD stamped flexplate PDD sells that you can find on Ebay for $90, I actually have two because I thought the first was warped but they both have some runout.

Last night i loosened all the bolts and spent 2 hours retorqueing them as even as I could to no avail. Is there anything else I can do. It's an annoying vibration and I'm worried about breaking the crank.

It's a DPC triple disc converter.
 
Honestly the gold ones are pretty ****ty as far as quality(no surprise given the cost). They hold good power, just have frequent fitment issues. I've installed the Suncoast, BD and ATS ones and they are all nice, and I'm sure the Goerend is just as quality as well.
 
Had the same issue, sorry to say u should pull the trans again and check 2 things. Remove the tc put it on its neck and lay the flexplate on it where it bolts to the tc. My flexplate was actually hitting the raised button in the center. Had a machinst/trans builder friend machine it down a tad so there was clearance. Also more likely it isnt completely centered on the crank.
 
I'm interested in this. I seem to have the same issue (for years) and just attributed it to having a much stiffer flex plate than OEM.
 
I'm about to order a billet goerend flex plate from MTS for 255. Unless someone knows of a better option.

If that doesn't fix it I assume the converter is out of balance since I had to send it back a couple times.
 
I know it sucks pulling transmissions, but if you have an OEM one to try, I'd try it before going whole hog on a high $$$ one.
At least, for testing purposes.

Mark.
 
The other thing you could do, oversize the holes a little, and center it like you would a manual (build a centering tool). It's not the hole size (sheer) that holds the plate in place, it's the clamp force (axial).

And I doubt it's the converter. A billet base is going to be close to perfect, and any converter welding machine would hold it pretty close to perfect as well. You could check that with a dial indicator pretty easily though.
 
I'm about to order a billet goerend flex plate from MTS for 255. Unless someone knows of a better option.

If that doesn't fix it I assume the converter is out of balance since I had to send it back a couple times.

I have Gorend billet flexplates in both of my trucks with no issues. Quality parts.
 
That looks like both the flex plate and the input are gone. How'd you manage that?
Heard a noise at idle after the truck sat for a while. I thought it was normal since I haven't driven it in a while. Took it to the drag strip. Went down the track a few times and starting coming to a stop to get my time slip to hear a noise that sounded like I blew the turbo to bits. Nope it was what you see in the video.

Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk
 
Finally installed the goerend flexplate I got a couple months ago. Runs a lot smoother now. Managed to swap it without pulling the trans or draining anything. Took me about 6 hours with the truck all muddy.
 
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