Fluidampr vs ATI vs OEM 6.7

Drothgeb

Drothgeb

Almost Fast-N-Loud
Joined
Sep 18, 2010
Messages
820
I've been considering my options between the Fluidampr, ATI and OEM 6.7 dampers. I'm leaning toward to using the OEM 6.7 damper, but I was looking at the pictures of it, and don't see notches for the tach pickup. Anybody know if it has them or not, and if there is a work around if it doesn't have them?
 
It does not have a tach pick up. 6.7's use the tone ring on the back. I am sure you could drill in 2 magnets like guys do on fluiddamper's to get the rmp signal.
 
The 6.7 damper has the tone ring made on the back of it. I have one for my 96', but haven't put it on yet. You would have to have most of teeth machined off.
 
A little bit of machine work is not an issue. But, I'm seeing conflicting post as to whether it will work at all. The junkyard has one for $135, so it would save me a few bucks if it would. I've also read that there's a 5.9 marine fluid damper that works as a straight bolt on. Does anybody know specifics on that?
 
I dont know about the marine damper but I have a 6.7 and a 12 valve one laying at the shop. After some quick measurements the 6.7 should work fine if you machine the tone ring off the back. It is 9.5" around vs the 8.25 of the 12 valve one but it should still clear the fan hub and such. I will sell you mine if you want to try it.
 
ninerqb8 said:
I dont know about the marine damper but I have a 6.7 and a 12 valve one laying at the shop. After some quick measurements the 6.7 should work fine if you machine the tone ring off the back. It is 9.5" around vs the 8.25 of the 12 valve one but it should still clear the fan hub and such. I will sell you mine if you want to try it.
Click to expand...

After more research, the main issue seems to be the ESS notches. Machining them in wouldn't be a problem. But from looking at pictures of the 6.7 damper, it looks like it's 2 pieces welded together, and there might not be enough meat left after the cut? What's the one you have look like? How much do you want for it?
 
Drothgeb said:
After more research, the main issue seems to be the ESS notches. Machining them in wouldn't be a problem. But from looking at pictures of the 6.7 damper, it looks like it's 2 pieces welded together, and there might not be enough meat left after the cut? What's the one you have look like? How much do you want for it?
Click to expand...

I dont think I would machine the grooves in it I would just attach magnets. I would do 80 plus shipping for mine.
 
I was looking at the ess closer, the magnetic portion is only 3/8" dia. So it doesn't need a notch, a 1/2" dia depression, or magnet should work. For $80, I'd be willing to give it a shot.
 
I tried the 6.7 damper on a 12 valve. It wont work. When you machine enough off the back, you will hit silicone. So dont waste you money. I did lol.
 
17cumminsboy said:
I tried the 6.7 damper on a 12 valve. It wont work. When you machine enough off the back, you will hit silicone. So dont waste you money. I did lol.
Click to expand...

How did you hit silicone when you are machining the tone ring off the back of the belt groove? Edit never mind I see what you are talking about. I was thinking the pulley was just a shell I didn't notice til you mentioned it the it is about an inch thick and full of silicone.
 
Last edited:
17cumminsboy said:
I tried the 6.7 damper on a 12 valve. It wont work. When you machine enough off the back, you will hit silicone. So dont waste you money. I did lol.
Click to expand...

ninerqb8 said:
How did you hit silicone when you are machining the tone ring off the back of the belt groove? Edit never mind I see what you are talking about. I was thinking the pulley was just a shell I didn't notice til you mentioned it the it is about an inch thick and full of silicone.
Click to expand...

So it's not just the teeth that needs to be cut off, it's the whole tone ring?
And taking that off hit's the silicone?
 
Drothgeb said:
So it's not just the teeth that needs to be cut off, it's the whole tone ring?
And taking that off hit's the silicone?
Click to expand...

Yeah the thickness of the tone ring it the difference between the 12 valve and a 6.7 and to get it machined enough it will get into the fluid part of the damper.
 
ninerqb8 said:
Yeah the thickness of the tone ring it the difference between the 12 valve and a 6.7 and to get it machined enough it will get into the fluid part of the damper.
Click to expand...

What exactly would the tone ring hit if I left it on, the front cover?
 
Had to machine the 6.7 damper on my 6.7/p-pump. Had to take a little off, but so far no problems. I'm using Keatings housing and front cover.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top