frame rust removal products

davem3261

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Oct 29, 2009
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What have you used to remove rust scale off of the underside of the truck? I didn't know if there was anything out there that's brush on and will turn rust into a paint able surface. I really don't want to sandblast. I'm afraid I will have sand end up in the engine Trans or axle somehow.
 
Pressure was the **** out of it and then use muratic (spelling) acid and wash again.
 
Pressure was the **** out of it and then use muratic (spelling) acid and wash again.


Muriatic acid works great for gas tanks bc you can let it sit in there and soak.
I've never tried it on a frame tho. It may just evaporate.

I use my harbor freight needle scaler. Get urself a set of goggles and earmuffs and go to town. It will blow off anything loose.

It's basically an air chisel with 19 needles that will beat anything off of the part your working on.


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Sweatshirt, jeans, safety glasses and a wire wheel. Have fun lol
 
Muriatic acid works great for gas tanks bc you can let it sit in there and soak.
I've never tried it on a frame tho. It may just evaporate.

I use my harbor freight needle scaler. Get urself a set of goggles and earmuffs and go to town. It will blow off anything loose.

It's basically an air chisel with 19 needles that will beat anything off of the part your working on.


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This. ^^^ it works great. I used to use wire wheels on grinders but ive been F'd up to many times and have to many scars LOL
 
Sand blasting is the ultimate but no matter what you do make sure to get some paint on it in a hurry. Just the slightest bit of moisture in the air will rust bare steel in a hurry. The humidity here in Indiana can turn our concrete trucks from fresh white blasted steel to brown in just a couple of days.
 
I have been using a twisted wire wheel on my angle grinder for my 56 chevy resto. Works great. Been through a couple of them. $15 at lowes
 
I found a guy to come to my house and sandblast the underside for $500. Going to por15 after that.
 
be warned POR 15 actually adheres BETTER to rust. It will work quite well though compared to much of the paint on the market. A DTM (Direct to Metal) paint works best but POR 15 is more readily available.

Make sure you keep an eye and cover anything you do not want blasted EXTREMELY well. Do not use duct tape unless you have to. After duct tape is hit with the blaster it becomes a gooey mess and is really hard to get off. Thin runner is the best thing to protect form blasting. Use seam sealer anywhere paint has a difficult time getting in (ie seams like where leaf spring hangers meet the frame etc..). It will help keep rust from forming there and creating an edge for the paint to lift from.

Clean any grease and oil off before blasting. Blasting tends to push the oil and grease further into the metal and paint doesn't adhere very well. It is a real bich when a blaster does that. Takes a ton of 330 grease remover and compressed air to get it out of the pores.
 
Por15 has a converter for bare metal that isn't rusty. I used it on the front half of my frame when I did my engine swap. First try didn't work, I could literally scrape it off with my fingernail. Second time stuck. I can beat on it with a hammer.
 
loctite makes a product, I think it's called extended rust protection or something like that. It gets brushed on over surface rust and once it dries your supposed to be able to paint over it and forget about it. I think jegs sells it, since they are right around the corner I think that's what I'm gonna try on this bare frame I have after I wire wheel the whole thing
 
This. ^^^ it works great. I used to use wire wheels on grinders but ive been F'd up to many times and have to many scars LOL

I would agree. I have the large HF needle gun and it works pretty darn good and getting off scale.
 
yall doing this while the cab and bed are on the truck or taking them off.. (sand blast and por15)
 
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