Front axle help!!!!!!

T

thegoodman97

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Joined
Dec 4, 2010
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47
Im replacing my hub assembly cuz the bearing is bad and come to find out my pads needed replaced too. Well first off i cant get the hub off i need the puller tool does anyone know where i can find one? If not are there other ways to do it? Second i cant compress the piston back in the caliper. And last im putting a leveling kit in as well once i get the important stuff taken care of. Is there anything i should watch out for? answer to problem i might run into? I gotta have thge truck road worthy by 9pm Sunday night (Nov18). Any help would be appreciated.
 
You can't manage a break job, but your doing a wheel bearing and a leveling kit?
 
i can manage a brake job, this isnt my first rodeo. i just cant get the piston back in the calliper. im tryin to find out if anyone has had this problem and should i replace the calliper?
 
Put a big c clamp on it and crank it back maybe loosen the bleeder screw I can't imagine it's stuck if they stopped at all
 
1. Brake job

2. Caliper tool. If that doesn't push in the piston, it's time for a new caliper.
 
I usually slip a socket between the inner C and the u joint, then crank the wheel and the unit bearing pops right out. Kinda confusing if you've never done it though.
 
alex211 said:
I usually slip a socket between the inner C and the u joint, then crank the wheel and the unit bearing pops right out. Kinda confusing if you've never done it though.
Click to expand...

Thats the best way to do it, hands down.

If the caliper doesn't go back go get new calipers or make sure your hoses aren't rusted up inside the metal clamps pinching it off so fluid cant travel through. To do this pop the bleeder open on the caliper and try pushing it back with a C-clamp. If it goes back fine, your hose is bad. If it still doesn't go back, you need a caliper. Caliper's are cheap as hell for these trucks and its almost stupid to not replace them when doing a brake job.

Do not use a puller on the hub because if you pull the hub itself out of the wheel bearing, your screwed and now your stuck in the same spot. Loosen the bolts in the back a few turns then wedge a tool between the knuckle and the bolt heads as said before, and push them out with the steering.
 
I must have a rabbits foot somewhere in my truck. My truck has rust everywhere but my hubs came right off. I snapped a bolt off the backside of one, but the hub itself wasn't frozen to the truck.
 
My most time consuming part of the whole job was putting new lugs through my assembly by far. In total I think two hours for everything with beers throughout. Sometimes I get lucky, others I get screwed by a crossmember rusted under the truck on a tranny job. Like advised, the extension method works. I also sprayed my bolts with PB and also sprayed where they meet a few times and days in advance.
 
I got my hubs of with heat. I took the 4 bolts out and then beat the hell out the rotors. Its not an easy job.
 
tornado112 said:
I got my hubs of with heat. I took the 4 bolts out and then beat the hell out the rotors. Its not an easy job.
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That's the hard way.

They pop right out using the steering and a deep well socket between a u joint ear and the inner c. Just crank the wheel and they fall right out, worked great on my 94 which has been in the rust belt its whole life.
 
alex211 said:
That's the hard way.

They pop right out using the steering and a deep well socket between a u joint ear and the inner c. Just crank the wheel and they fall right out, worked great on my 94 which has been in the rust belt its whole life.
Click to expand...

^X2
 
alex211 said:
That's the hard way.

They pop right out using the steering and a deep well socket between a u joint ear and the inner c. Just crank the wheel and they fall right out, worked great on my 94 which has been in the rust belt its whole life.
Click to expand...

^3

I used a 3" long 3/8 extension.
 
WOW, $65 and I still use a big screwdriver between the pad and rotor and pry it back in
BEFORE I remove the caliper......... always works for me.
 
Snap-on always finds a way to overcharge on every tool...
Originally Posted by alex211
That's the hard way.

They pop right out using the steering and a deep well socket between a u joint ear and the inner c. Just crank the wheel and they fall right out, worked great on my 94 which has been in the rust belt its whole life.
Click to expand...
^x4
 
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