Home made Sump: thoughts

wideopen said:
The Hellmann Fuel Sump Richmond Texas

Beans Diesel Performance Fuel Tank Sump - Sumps - Fuel Systems - Performance

Why Re-Engineer the wheel?

I have the Hellman and am happy with it, but the Beans is a impressive piece also...plus it comes with the Hole Saw.
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I in no means want to re design the wheel, if anything what has sparked my curiosity is how similar it is to the sumps on the market besides material of construction.

I don't have all my fuel system parts in yet anyway. I'll modify the can into a sump and put it on an old grand Cherokee gas tank I have to see how it does. If it fails miserably, I'll scrap the idea and forget I ever thought of it. If it works without issue, I will consider it as an option

I really do appreciate the feed back guys :thumbsup:
 
It would probably work. A bulk head fitting would insure no pulled threads. The cap will be a lot stronger than the plastic tank on the truck. I like making my own stuff also.
 
Just wait for Beans to put a blem up, I bought the last one, and will say it was much uglier in the pics than in person!
 
I got this advice for sealing the sump on CF
Yankneck696 said:
Silicone won't do. Make a gasket out of Vito sheet (mcmaster carr) or neoprene gasket material. Adhere it to the axle cap with Permatex #2 gasket maker & let it fully cure. Once ready to install, use a light coat of axle grease on the mating surface for future removal. . Use SS bolts & nylock nuts with fender washers that have neoprene washers Permatexed to them on the inside.
I have done similar things for boats.

Ed
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Letting a neoprene gasket cure to the cap with "gasket maker" isnt going to make for a very flat mating surface after it cures. I agree with not using silicone, but thats about it.
 
JWhite said:
Letting a neoprene gasket cure to the cap with "gasket maker" isnt going to make for a very flat mating surface after it cures. I agree with not using silicone, but thats about it.
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I have found you cannot use both. Either a gasket only or permatex only. Using both allows the gasket to 'float' and never seals worth a damn.
 
[ame="http://s452.photobucket.com/user/12vFlameRedRam/media/Trucks/2005RamFuelSump.jpg.html"]2005 Ram Fuel Sump Photo by 12vFlameRedRam | Photobucket[/ame]

Why reinvent the wheel you ask???...
Because some of Us had the materials and the time to make our own.
We had a specific idea and wanted to just do it.When we made the one for my truck the only one available at the time was Hellman's cost was higher then.It has been on now for a couple of years with zero issues.I had gotten the willies of the 1/4 tank fuel issues associated with both AD and FASS and this cured that.

If your going to attempt to use that plastic hub for a sump make sure you support the fuel line so it does not have all its weight hanging off the sump.
 
LOL @ "re-invent the wheel". How many companies have "re-invented the wheel?" LOL

I've build a lot of junk I could have bought and probably saved time and money. I like "home-made" parts....as long as they work. :D I say build it. $.02
 
I see most like to put the sump under the canister. I plan on returning fuel to the sump with a drawstraw, so either I'd have to cut through the canister, or mount elsewhere.

The rear of my tank seems to be the flattest, and has one of the best places to put a drawstraw for a return on top. Any problems with this I might be missing, beside when braking at low fuel levels?
 
If you have access to a lathe and a mill then make your own out of metal. That's what I plan on doing, it's not a terribly difficult design. I'd rather have metal than plastic though, JMO.
 
I'm giving up on the plastic. I put a bulkhead fitting in, the only flat surface is the bottom, and I'm not comfortable with how low that made the fitting hang
 
I'm looking to pickup that used Hellmann TMoneyDiesel offered to sell, but I can't seem to get ahold of him.

If all else fails looks like I'll have to make one or break down and buy a new one
 
diesel_importer said:
I feel like my time is worth too much when I can go buy one ready to go for cheap, that's already been tested.
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I agree, is the 3 hours its gonna take you to make this one work really worth it? You can buy one cheap, a vendor on here had blemished ones (anodizing didnt come out perfect) for around $100 ready to bolt on
 
Gasoline Sucks said:
I agree, is the 3 hours its gonna take you to make this one work really worth it? You can buy one cheap, a vendor on here had blemished ones (anodizing didnt come out perfect) for around $100 ready to bolt on
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I don't like the design of the new beans piece. The old one was great
 
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