HT3B as a single with a spool valve

J

JC6711

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With in the next couple of weeks I would like to get this setup on the truck. Looking for some input from you guys if this will be a good setup or not.

As of right now I have a HT3b turbo that I am going to rebuild (kit is on its way). It has a 75mmish compressor wheel and a 23cm housing. I have some 5x.016 injectors on the way (hopefully seller is being flakey).

I plan on making the spool valve this weekend using a T3 flange, then a box of sorts to a T6 flange. Going to put the flap in the divided T6 flange and use a wastegate off a small garret turbo charger.


Now for some questions:

1) The oil feed line used for compounding a HT3B should be long enough for running up top as a single?

2) With these big chargers is it best to flip the exhaust manifold for fitment?

3) For the oil drain what size silcone tube do I need? And is there a place I can get a bolt on drain for the HT3B?

4) How do you think this setup will do? Along with turbo and injectors I have a 170 pump, 4kgsk, mack plug, gutted afc, georend built tranny, 3k stall converter.
 
AN outdated ht3b

As a single

With a home made spool valve

Sounds like a pig in the making. Ht3b are really great budget primaries for a tow rig. Past that I wouldn't waste my time. A home made spool valve will only frustrate you more.

Is the housing divided on your ht3b?

Not trying to chit on your parade I will answer the questions:

1. It may work. It might need looped as it is probably too long.

2. Some work better flipped but It can complicate the downpipe. Is your truck 2wd or 4wd?

3. That will depend on the size of nipple on the flange you choose. It should use the same bolt on flange as the s400, k31, big garrets, etc..

4. I think it will be a pig and you will hate it spooling at 3k rpm and the spool valve snapping shut after hard pulls.

Remember the ht3b is a proprietary flange as well. It isn't a true t6.
 
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Well from what I have read, the spool valve works great. Now that's only a few people though on different turbo setups. What about running the spool valve off of drive pressure instead of boost preassure. Cause I asume when it snaps shut after boost falls off the drive pressure goes up.
 
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You will find very little gain from using the spool valve on an HT3B if the exhuast housing is not seperated at the flange. Most all HT3B exhaust housing I remember seeing were not seperated. Maybe your is. If it isn't you are wasting your time, effort, and money to even try...
 
JC6711 said:
Well from what I have read, the spool valve works great. Now that's only a few people though on different turbo setups. What about running the spool valve off of drive pressure instead of boost preassure. Cause I asume when it snaps shut after boost falls off the drive pressure goes up.
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The problem isn't the control of the spool valve...the problem is the ht3b. 40 year old charger that you will have to custom build everything for...then, when it fails, start all over from scratch.

Old and inefficient, albeit cheap. I'm guessing that is the draw to it, cheap?

In a twin set, it's fine, you're compounding air, and it's inefficiencies aren't as evident.

Trying to drive it hard as a single using a home built spool flange, whole other ballgame.

Chris
 
The housing is divided and 23cm. The housing size may be the key to it working well. For the most part everything that I put into this can be used in a compound setup if it fails to work well except the spool valve of course.
 
If anything I'd just divert the gasses to the rear scroll in a fixed diverter type deal. unless you can get your Hands on inconel or something beyond 310 stainless in heat resistance you'll find your turbine wheel at war with melted diverter plate material
In either instance it won't work worth a chit like posted above. IMHO
 
If you have the means to compound it then just start there. Tough to come up with many positives out of this other than it is an ok primary.

If you desire a big single then I would build a set of compounds and trade them or sell them for a modern turbo. Could come out money ahead as well. The new s300sxe line is shipping soon or find yourself an s475 with the 87 turbine.
 
SuperiorRam said:
If anything I'd just divert the gasses to the rear scroll in a fixed diverter type deal. unless you can get your Hands on inconel or something beyond 310 stainless in heat resistance you'll find your turbine wheel at war with melted diverter plate material
In either instance it won't work worth a chit like posted above. IMHO
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I was looking into stainless steel to use for the flap but I was worried about differing exspenion rates of different metals (although I think stainless expands less then mild steel). Mild steel has a melting point of ~2500°f, I don't see how a few seconds of 1500° is going to cause it too melt away but then again I'm not an engineer.
 
You'd be surprised smokem engineered a few diffrent spool valves and the first few batches melted the center right out along with a few turbos sacrificing themselfs
 
Spoolvalves just dont work, never had. They might spin the turbo faster but they make so much restriction (and cant use the advantage of divided housing) that you could make more power at lower boost without the valve.
 
SuperiorRam said:
You'd be surprised smokem engineered a few diffrent spool valves and the first few batches melted the center right out along with a few turbos sacrificing themselfs
Click to expand...

We only had one the actually melted the grey iron center section, and the turbine wheel was undamaged.
 
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