jantz load bolt

Well simple facts are load bolts used in diffs broke after 50 passes, if the load bolt was ignored and the problem wasn't addressed.

Diffs modified to get away from why the load bolt was a needed tool i don't see anymore and are now on multiple seasons of use.
Oddly enough the fix for those split cap design cases was preventing cap walk.

Now there are no issues and no load bolt


So, yes there is movement, but if you correctly address the problem , it will stay right.

All diffs have the same issues, and all need to be set correctly, if you do not understand what the gears do under load and what the adjustments do to counter that you're going to have problems.
The diffs that used load bolts like the early gm's................ ALL split cap spanner designs, and short pin bearing spacing, which are horrible designs for things with power.
The 9" design, everyone runs to it but pin bearings on top of each other, EXTREME flex, the early gm or eaton, another one...

They needed the load bolt, the others do not have these problems.



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This is what happens when the load bolt is left unchecked and relied on as the end all in a Split Cap design spanner to set backlash.
The cap under large power, not factory power, walks or moves, and the lower or housing saddle threads then shove the spanner out also as you see all the threads shoved out also.
That then moves the backlash, which when the backlash is loosened it then moves up the ring and off the face/heel and bang you lose your teeth on the ring.
That doesn't happen in a carrier style housing like it does in a banjo type which are more likely to have split cap spanners, except the 8.25 which is a carrier design and does use a split cap spanner.
In a carrier design if preloads are left light, you'll have that problem, preloads change and loosen once you start, if you set up on the loose side, you'll be on the bottom side of that spec and that's usually always always a problem.

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